GN250 - Unable to change Brake Fluid (pics attached)

[crazyv]

Good day all,

So have a new Suzuki GN250 E 2006 and noticed the brake fluid on about the Low mark, bought DOT4 brake fluid and proceeded to open the two screws on the top of the brake fluid unit (see pictures attached).

Only to find the nut at the top too tight (using a standard philips set screw driver - one that fits well). After a bit of play found that it would not budge (the screw) - Got the electric drill out with a philips screw head. Still won't open and now the head of the screw is almost gone

Question is: What is the best way I can get the brake fluid unit open? (seeing as I cannot open the screw and that the screw is just about gone)

Cheers!

[awayatc]

I usualy tap it with a small coldchisel (old screwdriver will do) and a hammer. even a liitle punch on outside off screwhead
After a few good taps it will move, ...

[crazyv]

OK thanks for that... ill give that a go!

[Steam]

Drill a hole in the fucker, fill it up, then stick a rubber bung in it when you're finished. You can glue the bung in if you're real keen.

Undoing screws the proper way is for pussies.

[WasPhantom]

Drill a hole in the fucker, fill it up, then stick a rubber bung in it when you're finished. You can glue the bung in if you're real keen.

Undoing screws the proper way is for pussies.

I've fixed a laptop in just this very way! Drilling out screws is the only way to go [*nods*]

But in this case, I suspect the chisel/old screw driver may well work...

[NOMIS]

Good day all,

So have a new Suzuki GN250 E 2006 and noticed the brake fluid on about the Low mark, bought DOT4 brake fluid and proceeded to open the two screws on the top of the brake fluid unit (see pictures attached).

Only to find the nut at the top too tight (using a standard philips set screw driver - one that fits well). After a bit of play found that it would not budge (the screw) - Got the electric drill out with a philips screw head. Still won't open and now the head of the screw is almost gone

Question is: What is the best way I can get the brake fluid unit open? (seeing as I cannot open the screw and that the screw is just about gone)

Cheers!

hahahaha that wasn't to smart, before trying to turn it you should of given the screwdriver a few taps with a hammer this would have helped to loosen the screw, any way keep that for future reference.

for now cold chisle and hammer if that dont work sucks for you i guess

[xwhatsit]

Oh shit. Easy-out style screw extractor perhaps?

My bike is full of these silly little soft screws. Ended up buying an el-cheapo impact driver (you know the one, in the blue metal case) for $20-$40 or something.

[Spuds1234]

Yip. If it doesnt come out first time, tap (hardish) the screw 2 or 3 times with a hammer while exerting the most turning and downward force on the screw that you can.

Failing that, when it comes to bikes an impact driver is pretty much compulsory to own.

Electric drills and such like are not very good as you tend to do what you have done and then your in even more trouble.

[Katman]

If you can't tap the screw around with a center punch drill the head of it off and you'll be able to get at the 2 or 3 mms protruding above the master cylinder body with vise grips when you take the lid off.

Under no circumstances follow Steam's advice of drilling a hole in the cap. There is the very distinct possibility of metal filings working their way into the bore of the cylinder and causing complete brake failure.

Steam's advice would have to rank as one of the most irresponsible pieces advice I have ever read on this forum. It's that sort of shit that gets people killed.

[Squiggles]

Use an easy out, had to do the same thing yesterday on an fxr150. Justs drill a hole to the size of the easy out, punch the easy out in there and tap on it while turning to undo. She'll come loose

[F5 Dave]

What Katman sez +the hole would also go through the rubber seal, that seal should be intact, if ripped replace it.

I find a small sharp wood chisel can open a groove if aimed at the head in the direction of undoozing. Then as stated use a sacrificial flat screwdriver to tap around in a circle, that usually starts it. Have also used a dremel disc to make a flatblade slot successfully too. Replace screw when done.

[FROSTY:Me]

dont touch the fluid --check ya pad thickness--betch the pads are worn out--fit new pads squease the pistons back--betcha the fluid level comes back up to full.

One LAST RESORT answer is to use a hacksaw and cut a slot in the screwhead. yea itll slot the cover as well which is why its a final resort