No8 Wire Extraordinaire
Just checking. But your logic runs out a little. The increase in bore size effectively reduces the leverage, the hydraulic advantage is lessened so yes it will give little feel & the lever will move a smaller amount; but - & this is the important part; there will be considerably less power at the pads so you would have to squeeze harder to get the same effect. Like 70s brakes but with less lever travel.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Ta
I retort: The master in question is also radial, with a very short piston/hinge distance. More leverage than standard, plus bigger piston, equals OH FUCK.Originally Posted by F5 Dave
Having said that, Clive seems to get on with the one he has OK, so without seeing what caliper he's running, my theory goes right out the window.
I'm not being argumentitive for it's own sake this time by the way. Just wanted to know if I could fit one to my RF without decreasing what effectively little brakes it has now.
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
I was wondering if you would try argue your way out of it. Leverage is leverage, Radial m/cs have the advantage of less angular change through out the stroke.
Conversion from conventional to radial is something of a question but I have seen articles where they reduced the braking force of a GSXR considerably (increased the stopping distance alarmingly) by putting on a swish radial MC (they choose too big a bore, but I bet plenty have buying aftermarket without realising it).
I tend to go with braided cables & the smallest piston I can get away with. Braided lines can make some older brakes feel wooden like XJs etc as they ran large pistons to compensate for old tech rubber lines. Rubber lines have improved heaps.
Actually my RF didn't stop that bad when I put the Galfer pads & new EBC discs with a complete strip, but she was a big ol' girl. The YZF outbraked it easily with R1 bits fitted, but I did need to go to the smaller 14mm mc the R1 uses rather than the 5/8 most older twin setups use.
You could experiment with 14mm mc, but would have to fit braided lines & lever travel may still be too much with those 4 pots, my RGV brakes didn't seem to bleed up acceptably & same sort of callipers.
But getting a WOF may be difficult with non std mc. Certainly wouldn't get one at a VINZ place without a LVV cert.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
oh yeah how straight are your RF discs while we are off the subject of buckets it seems?
I skimmed 2 discs & at least one of them warped after another 6 months by which time I had new discs.
There could well be one that is fine & I'm skint so $40 to you if it is better than what you have. Beening meaning to try check them & TM them.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Forum whore
halfway down this page http://www.tz350.net/tzperformance.htm is pretty detaild blurb about matching calipers to masters
My neighbours diary says I have boundary issues
Ta
They run true, but are beneath minimum thickness. I have a mint pair of RF rotors on fucked carriers, and a pair of RGV complete disks that I dunno the rotor condition of already. So eventually I'll find somewhere that can button them into a good set for me.
But cheers.
Oh yeah, leverage is not the same as leverage. Piston 20mm from pivot, provides less pressure per pound per square inch of force to lever, than piston at 10mm from pivot.
Specifics Bob.
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
F1 eng will button discs. I have a set of circliped buttons for my PFM rotors ex my YZF but hope to sell the discs complete.
Sorry don't understand your leverage argument. You can increase or decrease leverage by changing the fulcrum, but you can also change the hydraulic leverage. At the end of the day you are still providing mechanical advantage & there is no free power to be had.
Given that you don't want the lever to move much more than 3cm there is a limit to the leverage, hydraulic or plain mechanical of a given combination of the two. More mechanical leverage may suffer tiny amounts more friction but splitting hairs.
Reducing flex in callipers & lines means lever movement isn't wasted so one could take advantage & decrease the bore size , or indeed move the pivot point closer, for more power at the pads
incidentally old TZs apparently had worse brakes than RDs as they were flexi ally compared to a heavy lump on the RD.
Couldn't load that TZ site, but I meant conversion from conventional to radial mc. Brembos etc run 19mm for example on some setups.
Lockheed or someone had an adjustable MC, one set bore, but you could adjust the pivot to give the required leverage. clever.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
gypsy
planning on dicking off??? lol
what a ride so far!!!!
Unknown Disorder
This is buckets, did you need to ask?planning on dicking off??? lol
Why Not???: MNZ975.
Well Drew; I'm happy to put my money where my mouth is (otherwise I would not have posted in the first place) Pm me your details and I'll send you one. If it works $80 plus shipping. If not send it back (call it square) and I'll stop offering them up.
Brent.
Eyes that shine burning red
Exactly.
We also have two fxr front ends so might put tem on both bikes.
Unknown Disorder
If you want to flick one off talk to me at easter
In the riders seat
Lockheed as below, although I think Accosato and Brembo have radial M/C that can do the same
"If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough power."
Eyes that shine burning red
One of the sets of clip ons, or bikes?
Unknown Disorder
FXR front ends, gathered you might have a spare.
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