Fuel tap issues

[FilthyLuka]

Right, the fuel tap on my gixxer is gone burger.

There is a 90 degree little pipe that the fuel line goes onto, and the other end of this 90 degree pipe sits in the fuel tap body. Its about an inch one way, half inch the other way. This decided to remove itself from the fuel tap whilst i was on the motorway There is a little rib on the half inch side (that goes into the tap) where a crush ring used to sit, this has since shat itself. meaning that there is nothing keeping the little 90 degree insert in the tap.

A new one is gonna be 6 weeks from japan

Cause the thing is cast, i cant weld the little 90 degree pipe into the tap body

Anyway, the question im asking. If i put the tube in the fuel tap body, squeaze it in, then apply araldite to it, will she be all good? Or can petrol eat through araldite?

to give you an idea, the pipe steps down about 2mm, then there is the length of pipe that goes into the tap. Once inside, the outer diameter of the pipe (the bit thats outside of the tap body) is about 15mm id say, the tube section of the tap that it slots into (the body of the tap), is about 18mm outside diameter, so there is a fair bit of meat for the araldite to hold onto.

should i just bung the thing in, throw on some araldite and Bobs my uncle? Or will it not work?

Cheers

[xwhatsit]

People happily araldite tanks and they don't leak.

Try that, take some chewing gum with you just in case, while you wait the 6 weeks.

I won't make a snide comment about Suzukis, otherwise the araldite in my tank will fall out.

[Katman]

Can you not carefully braise the fitting in?

[FilthyLuka]

Can you not carefully braise the fitting in?

Thought of this, braze doesn't stick to the metal.

[fLaThEaD FreD]

Resin based glue is my business and the araldite being epoxy should do the job.However degrease it well and acid etch it first if you can to improve the adhesion.

Right, the fuel tap on my gixxer is gone burger.

There is a 90 degree little pipe that the fuel line goes onto, and the other end of this 90 degree pipe sits in the fuel tap body. Its about an inch one way, half inch the other way. This decided to remove itself from the fuel tap whilst i was on the motorway There is a little rib on the half inch side (that goes into the tap) where a crush ring used to sit, this has since shat itself. meaning that there is nothing keeping the little 90 degree insert in the tap.

A new one is gonna be 6 weeks from japan

Cause the thing is cast, i cant weld the little 90 degree pipe into the tap body

Anyway, the question im asking. If i put the tube in the fuel tap body, squeaze it in, then apply araldite to it, will she be all good? Or can petrol eat through araldite?

to give you an idea, the pipe steps down about 2mm, then there is the length of pipe that goes into the tap. Once inside, the outer diameter of the pipe (the bit thats outside of the tap body) is about 15mm id say, the tube section of the tap that it slots into (the body of the tap), is about 18mm outside diameter, so there is a fair bit of meat for the araldite to hold onto.

should i just bung the thing in, throw on some araldite and Bobs my uncle? Or will it not work?

Cheers

[imdying]

A job for JB weld?

[FilthyLuka]

A job for JB weld?

I think the thing is cast ally, can you weld that?

I cleaned up the metal 'n' epoxied the thing together, hopefully it will hold well.

[imdying]

JB weld is some sort of metal epoxy gluey type stuff... the bloody Americans love the shit

The brass hose tail slips in and out of the (cast alloy) tap on my RGV, still a snug fit, but needs securing as it leaks a little when the bike isn't running. I've been humming and harring over whether to Araldie or JB Weld it. Let me know how you get on, if Araldite performs, I'll hit that

[vifferman]

The brass hose tail slips in and out of the (cast alloy) tap on my RGV, still a snug fit, but needs securing as it leaks a little when the bike isn't running. I've been humming and harring over whether to Araldie or JB Weld it. Let me know how you get on, if Araldite performs, I'll hit that

Having used both, I'd say to go for JB Weld. It's a little dearer (~$14), but very impressive. I've so far used it to fix my cracked clutch cover and repair a glovebox lid with broken hinges. Apart from being stronger than Araldite, it doesn't seem to slump as much as it's curing (it's a bit more viscous), and you can actually make it cure better/stronger by heating it once it's started to set. Plus it happens to be almost the same colour as a fuel tap!

[imdying]

Yeah, I've a little of both, so has been a toss up between the two. I really only want the tiniest smear between the two mating surfaces, should do the trick nicely

[FilthyLuka]

well, i've araldited the tap. Its solid as fuck. That thing aint going no-where.

Decided to flag the suzuki tap from japan. Getting an APE Racing tap/adapter/filter shipped over from the states.

Gonna be dual outlet high flow filter into a 2 in 1 out fuel filter to my standard fuel line. Its gonna rock. Also will allow for higher flow if i ever wanna go throw on 36mm RS smoothbores on it :-)