ZZR400 cold start clutch issues

[FROSTY:Me]

And heres the full version thanks sketchy

It's bad form to start a motorcycle in gear. Don't be lazy. Park with it in neutral, then start in neutral.

As mention cold oil is enough to create a fluid drag between the gears, clutch plates and moving parts inside your motor. Having it in gear putting that extra load on your starter motor is unnessary. Also if the motor is cold your going to put it in neutral to warm up for a bit anyway (right!) so why not put it in neutral when the motor is off. It's easier too!

[MaxCannon]

Thanks guys
Just to be clear - it's not in gear when I start it, it's in Neutral (I know cause the little green light is on and it doesn't try to launch through the shed wall when I press the starter).
Hence the confussion over why pulling in the clutch makes a difference.

Methinks I shall run it for a bit on the current oil and then change it myself so I know whats going in it.
I found Motul 5100 made for smoother shifting on the GN and the gearbox on the ZZR is pretty clunky at the mo.

[TimeOut]

My sons ZXR 250 always strated better with the clutch in. Even with a new battery and running Castrol GPS, it seemed to spin over fine but just wouldn't fire.

[mikey62]

My ZZR400 has also been having the odd problem starting on cold mornings. I find that if you catch it on the first firing then keep the revs up its ok but if you miss it then it takes a couple of bump start attempts to get it to fire. I've found that if I haven't run the bike for a couple of days then leave it out over night this can happen, otherwise its all good. Could just be an age thing.

On the clunky gears, get used to it. Older Kwakas are notorious for this, especially going from neutral into first and from first into second.

[MaxCannon]

Cheers for all the replies
A bit of an update
I tried a hot start in N with the clutch out and it still wouldn't run.
I'm thinking perhaps there is some sort of weird safety system that lets it turn over but not fire if the clutch is out.

So starting procedure is clutch in, turn over, it fires and runs sweet but won't idle on the choke. Have to hold the revs at about 1200-1500 for the first minute.
It's still a lot easier to make it go than the GN which used to be a pig in the cold, kept stalling no matter what you did.

I think I'm getting better at using the box now too, only a couple of embarrassing 1st to N shifts over the weekend.

[Max Preload]

I tried a hot start in N with the clutch out and it still wouldn't run.
I'm thinking perhaps there is some sort of weird safety system that lets it turn over but not fire if the clutch is out.

Not likely. There are features on some bikes that prevent you from attempting to start the bike in gear with the sidestand down and the clutch out, or kill the engine if it's running and you put the bike in gear with the sidestand down, but there would be no purpose to any safety system that doesn't prevent the engine winding over when in gear - it'll still jump off the sidestand and as yours winds over but just won't start that eliminates that.

I still say load test the battery.