an 850 but very likely to fit the 1000
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...x?id=233732684
an 850 but very likely to fit the 1000
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...x?id=233732684
Bruno
Yeah gidday ive been down the GS forum road many times and have some good data to work with. Also TFB in Perth has some good info on these, although not specific. The KN tapered pods with chrome ends are $160 each ex AMPS (NZ sole distributor and probably heavily marked up) or $130 each ex Oz landed. Yes cheaper no doubt ex USA but anyway have decided to stay with the box. As I said i am going to get it set up on a dyno so all good. just waiting for the gaskets etc to put it back together now. Hey Croc i dont need the pods u have now but am happy to reimburse you for them appreciate the thought. Cheers Tai
Cheap skate! I'll have a dozen Scalloies please.an, an Harf!
Every day above ground is a good day!:
Aww come on you two, let me explain this to you..
Owning an Italian bike is not a sign of wealth and status as you may be led to believe, it is a sign of eternal poverty, stress and hardship.
So rather than buy you these excessive side orders, I will more likely be fighting the seagulls for your chups.
Blast From The Past Axis of Oil
Mate I'll being the anti seagull ack ack! that way we can both get some Chuup's.
LOL.
So you gunna have that old Eyetie thing up and running reliably ( yeah I know too much to ask) before the 30th?
Every day above ground is a good day!:
shit !!...the 30th....I just received the AMC race calendar....and I am supposed to be working at Puki on the 30th!!....
Should be, I thought I was there, now I am backwards. From a complete never turned over bike this has happened.
Take a deep breath now................... ok.
Put the pit pike tank on the main frame tube, plug in the fuel tubes and turn on the tap. Petrol in the carbs, oh, petrol on the floor.
Run for rags, wipe fuel off engine and starter motor, also wipe off non petrol resistant paint from starter motor.
Disconnect fuel tank, pull bowl of l/h carb. Needle and seats are weirdly NOT included in the Dellorto recon kits, even though with a rubber tip, it is a consumable...
Ring the Island Guru. Yes he has one 2.70 needle valve. Nice, only one is leaking. Put it in the post.
Needle arrives Monday morning. Fitted it, put the carb back on. Test carbs, the other carb is now sticking on the throttle return. Pull r/h carb apart and check slides etck, all looks ok but the spring is sad. Ring Island Guru again, "got a 36mm double pumper spring?" - "Yes they are on order, 3 weeks"
Ahhhhhhhh
Ok, no biggie, so its a bit slow to return, that should not be vital. Put r/h carb back together and back on the bike. Fuel hooked up, press the button.. motor turns over with a strain and the battery dies. Pull the plugs out, hook in the timing light and spin her up again a bit faster, no spark on the l/h cyl.
Cross the electronic plate plugs and still no spark, so it's not the pick up. Pull off the l/h coil and replace from stock. Test- no spark. Pull apart lead and resistor, test with another lead, no spark.
Dash down the road to the auto sparkie and buy a new battery. They don't have a ready to go in my size (ummm XL thanks) so they give me the shell and acid. Take it home and fill, sweet, plug in the battery charger, the expensive trickel charger, and it fucks out. Dask across to the girlfriends house to borrow back my old charger and hooked up the new battery for overnight charging.
Last thing it can be is after coil, lead, connectors and wiring if it's not the pickup is the back box Dyna 3.
Ring AMPS (Dyna Importer) and blast there and buy another unit. Came home and hooked it in. Get spark in poth pots, then spark in the black box and it cooks.
Remove complete electronic ignition unit from the frame and dizzy and throw on the garage floor.
Find steel handled mini-slege and pulverize any and all remains of electronic ignition and tear the Dyna 3 Sticket from toolbox.
Later, calmer inspection showed clear coat had covered the engine case where I earthed the black box even though I checked continuity and it was all .000 reading.
Go deeep deeeep into the parts bins and piece by piece, screw by screw make up a twin points plate and dual resistors and fit the bike and wire in.
Static timed to the r/h pot and then fitted the new battery and fuel. Back to the fucking dark ages it is then.
Still spinning over pretty slowly. New engine is pretty tight but enough to tell there is spark to both pots.
Timing could be way out, the new billet clutch and ring gear has no marks. I tried to transfer some off the old flywheel but was not 100% sure exactly.
If I can get the engine to turn over fast enough I can twist the dizzy while she is spinning and fluke the right spot to fire.
Will hook up some jumpers to the ute in the morning and begin trial and error to see if I can get it to fire up and at least idle.
If it still turns over too slow I have a reduction geared starter on my other bike so I can switch them up and try that as well.
I hope that answers your question caseye?
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Blast From The Past Axis of Oil
omg, dodgyitiand i thought the ol' zooks can be chalenging...
now i understand why you need to have at least three guzzis at any one time![]()
Bruno
High mantainence! not to mention expensive and most likely a lota fun.
Dodgyiti, sorry I asked.
But enjoyed the read and now know beyond doubt to stick with my old girl.
Still seriously looking forward to seeing this Icon of yours on the start line on the 30th.
Every day above ground is a good day!:
Ok, it's a runner.
The reason it was beating me around the head a bit was a combination of things, if it were one or two things kaput I would have sussed it sooner.
So it starts up fine. The planatery geared starter I robbed off my Mk2 spun it at a suitable speed to fire. It would have started off the 1970's Bosch starter had all my planets been perfectly in alignment, but they were far from that.
Once I heard the first fire (and there was only one wee murmer firstly) it was only a short sprint to idling. Set the idle and mixture and balanced them.
It was impressive that only new bikes really have had my electronic balancer exactly on one bar of the LED, which indicates optimum balance. She is on optimum balance. Before the resto, it was hovering over 3 bars- the best I could get it no matter what.
So that is encouraging.
Still stuck with the failed return springs in the carbs, yeah it's springs now as both do not return properly. 2 1/2 week wait for them....
So I will set the timing with a strobe tomorrow, it is statically set at the moment but Guzzi's need full advance for correct setting.
To do that I will have to mark the flywheel because the aftermarket clutch housing is so tiny you can't see it from the timing inspection port. But from setting up the engine I have exact TDC for the right cyl. It is a process of counting gear teeth from that mark to get full advance for the R/H pot, then counting more all the way around to the L/H timing marks working off the old flywheel markings and converting that into ring gear teeth.
For some reason the rev counter is not working, could be the cable not engaging in the guages or engine, I set the idle rpm off the balancer function but will need it going to precisely hit full advance at 4,200rpm because I don't want to accidently wring it's neck on a fresh engine, 4 grand is heaps under no load
Of course the springs are required for that, unless with some careful cable routing I can get the carbs, or at least one (I can return one manually with me finger)returning to idle it will be possible, if not I just have to wait...
Hope that answers your question caseye
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Blast From The Past Axis of Oil
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