The Mut

[Str8 Jacket]

I fried my Jaycar kit CDI.

I'll use another for now, I may attempt to play with the design a bit.

Possible: To improve it for my application.
likely: Failure.
Certain: Learing something.

Did you do the vacuming?

[F5 Dave]

Bark.Bark. Bark. Bark!

[Str8 Jacket]

Bark.Bark. Bark. Bark!

He sure was a happy man this morning Dave!

[koba]

Bark! Bark! Bark! Bark!

[koba]

Looks good. Are you going to touch it up as you go along or let it degenerate over the years like mine has?

It didn't take a year, the paint is already pretty scuffed!

AND, it's only been crashed 4 times since then.

I'm crashing less than I used to.

[koba]

So to update,
All that Barking Lark was about my power.

I got a lot more.

With the Jaycar kit it made 18hp BUT it was peakier than the southern alps with less an a 2k rmp band and nothing either side.

With a bit of fuddling around we managed to extend this a bit further but it was still really quite bad.

We tested the RS ignition too and it didn't work at all.

I did one Race day with the Jaycar kit, it was realy, really hard to punt it arround Kaitoke and My clutch took an absolute hiding.

Mike C loaned me Rogans bike (Similarly modified MB100) for one race which, even though I think it had a lower peak output it was much faster due to the greater power range.

This really demonstrated how important a good power range is on a Kart Track.


So, after removing the RS ignition I found it had slipped on the taper and the rivets holding the taper on had started to loosen. (Didn't have a key with me when I put it on). This one also has suspect windings, it was giving Dave issues when He last ran it.


I wasn't keen to Try Tokoroa with a peakmonster so I started to tee up several options:

1 - Borrowing Mikes CR Ignition.
2 - Repairing the RS Ignition and trying to get this working.


More soon...

[koba]

I Repaired the RS ignition by hitting it with a big hammer.
This worked but the coil was still suspect.

After a test run I found that it did seem to start breaking down once it got hot but it did take quite a lot, perhaps 5 laps of clean running in Race one, and 4 for the next races (Starting with more heat in it).

I may be mixing the order of all this up a wee bit.

I got them on the Dyno with the RS working well before Tokoroa, quite a dfference, there was a nasty dip but the RS was better on the track by miles.

I suspect (Hope) it will improve once I get the port timing to the designed specs, at the moment it is too low for the pipe I'm running.
I need to raise this and tidy up a few other rough parts, then I will start cutting pipe steel if this still isn't good enough.

At Tokoroa I was going to run the RS but chickened out as I was worried that it might fail in the moment.
This was a really tough decision as it was so much faster with the RS Ignition.
I think it is due to the amount of retard.
Also my combustion chamber is sharp edged and modern, the CR curve is more likely to suit an old school style to keep the squish velocity down. (Thanks Mike)

Anyway, it was OK at Tokoroa but still needs more range to get through a lap without clutch stabbing hard in at least 2 corners.


More soon...