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Thread: Brakes questions

  1. #1
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    25th June 2007 - 21:21
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    Brakes questions

    I must replace the worn brake pads + the oil.
    The questions are
    • Will any DOT4 brake fluid do the job? (Is it DOT4?)
    • Any aftermarket FXR pads that I can get? and where?
    • How do I know the brake pads will fit? Whats the measurement? e.g. Tyres are measured 110 etc..
    • I may need a manual or a hand.


    I should do this quite soon, cause the worn brake pads are eating away the discs...

    Thanks

    EJ


    If you can make it on Kiwibiker you can make it anywhere.

  2. #2
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    24th October 2007 - 08:19
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    Usually a good time to stop riding until you have done the brakes!sorry no helpful advice other than that....
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  3. #3
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    25th June 2007 - 21:21
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    Technically you are right


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  4. #4
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    18th May 2005 - 09:30
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    get pads from the bikeshop, they'll have a list with what ones will fit, cycletreads do a pretty good deal at $45 per set, brake fluid, dot 5.1 is compatible with dot 4, so either is good, i think motul 5.1 is around 15 for a bottle that'll do a couple of bikes worth


  5. #5
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    Brakes bike shop best place to get them fuid i use dot 4 had no probs but my bikes areolder ones ask bike shop

  6. #6
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    14th February 2006 - 08:20
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    Cycletreads ask if they can do 3 pairs of pads for the price of 2 even though it aint on offer. I done it before... If not just take it to Cycletreads and get the fluid changed and pads put in at the same time.
    Don't just live to ride but ride to live.

  7. #7
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    13th September 2005 - 18:20
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    Quote Originally Posted by EJK View Post
    • Will any DOT4 brake fluid do the job? (Is it DOT4?)
    • Any aftermarket FXR pads that I can get? and where?
    • How do I know the brake pads will fit? Whats the measurement? e.g. Tyres are measured 110 etc..
    • I may need a manual or a hand.
    • As long as it's a glycol based fluid (anything but DOT5 not including DOT5.1) it'll be fine - I expect it specifies a minimum of DOT4 anyway.
    • Pretty much anywhere that does parts for bikes, aftermarket or genuine.
    • They will have a listing.
    • PM me your number if you want a hand. I haven't got much on this week.

    Quote Originally Posted by EJK View Post
    I should do this quite soon, cause the worn brake pads are eating away the discs...
    Don't ride it like that. You should be checking your brake pads regularly so you can replace them BEFORE they get that bad...
    If it wasn't for a concise set of rules, we might have to resort to common sense!

  8. #8
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    27th January 2005 - 18:09
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    Quote Originally Posted by EJK View Post
    I must replace the worn brake pads + the oil.
    The questions are
    • Will any DOT4 brake fluid do the job? (Is it DOT4?)
    • Any aftermarket FXR pads that I can get? and where?
    • How do I know the brake pads will fit? Whats the measurement? e.g. Tyres are measured 110 etc..
    • I may need a manual or a hand.


    I should do this quite soon, cause the worn brake pads are eating away the discs...

    Thanks

    EJ
    If the remains of the pads i.e. the backing plates are wearing the discs you should have changed them weeks ago. It would pay to take your old pads with you as FXR150's aren't in the catologues , also leave an airgap in your master cylinder as brake fluid expands when it gets hot .

  9. #9
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    25th June 2007 - 21:21
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    I cannot find a manual...
    So who would like to give me a hand?
    021-0265-4015


    If you can make it on Kiwibiker you can make it anywhere.

  10. #10
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    3rd October 2004 - 17:35
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    I can give you a hand one weekend, today if your available(and have the fluid + pads).
    Then I could get a Kb Tshirt, move to Timaru and become a full time crossdressing faggot

  11. #11
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    29th May 2008 - 20:42
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    DOT 4 has now been replaced by DOT 3... so I have been taught when I used to work at Repco. Supposedly NZ stopped stocking DOT 4 quite some time ago. Yet again I am unsure if this is 100% correct, so if anybody can prove otherwise, please do so (I don't want the wrong stuff in my brake lines too ).


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  12. #12
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    13th September 2005 - 18:20
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    Quote Originally Posted by StClingin View Post
    DOT 4 has now been replaced by DOT 3... so I have been taught when I used to work at Repco. Supposedly NZ stopped stocking DOT 4 quite some time ago. Yet again I am unsure if this is 100% correct, so if anybody can prove otherwise, please do so (I don't want the wrong stuff in my brake lines too ).
    Not quite. DOT 4 is more recent than DOT 3 and though I haven't noticed any DOT 3 for a while, I'm sure it's still for sale out there. I use the Castrol Response Super DOT 4 which is basically a DOT 4 which meets the DOT 5.1 performance requirement for dry boiling point.

    This is quite an interesting article.
    If it wasn't for a concise set of rules, we might have to resort to common sense!

  13. #13
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    25th June 2007 - 21:21
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    Thankfully Mr. Max Preload will help me with the brakes tomorrow (I do have the pads and the liquid).

    Now we'll need to decide:
    Where and when to fix it (Place and time)

    P.S. I don't have proper tools... Gosh so painful being a noob!


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  14. #14
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    17th February 2005 - 11:36
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    Quote Originally Posted by StClingin View Post
    DOT 4 has now been replaced by DOT 3... so I have been taught when I used to work at Repco. Supposedly NZ stopped stocking DOT 4 quite some time ago. Yet again I am unsure if this is 100% correct, so if anybody can prove otherwise, please do so (I don't want the wrong stuff in my brake lines too ).
    Other way round.

  15. #15
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    13th September 2005 - 18:20
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    So... we changed the front pads, cleaned the caliper, cleaned & greased (rubber) the slides (twin piston floating caliper on these), reassembled with chrome anti-seize on the locating pin and copper anti-seize on the caliper bolt threads, then soaked up the excess rusty dark brown brake fluid from the reservoir and flushed the rest through the system and bled up the front brake.

    I noticed the front brake lever wasn't fully returning to the stop without assistance and the brake light switch wasn't being disengaged, so we pulled the lever pivot bolt out and cleaned, greased and re-assembled it. It's not the correct bolt - it's a machine screw that had been taped around with insulation tape to take up the difference in diameter for the shoulder bolt that should have been there.

    It really needs the front brake fully stripping for the rusty fluid to be properly cleaned out - technically all we've really done is dilute the rusty fluid.

    The pads are fine in the rear - the disk is not so flash - it's scoured to a venturi cross-section - it should really be replaced. I wanted to get the pads out in order to remove and clean out the slide which was tight, possibly due to the rubber boot on one side not having been correctly refitted previously and the subsequent ingress of water but we struck this problem on the rear caliper (apart from being a 5mm key). One of the locating pins wouldn't budge and was beginning to round inside the hex. We'll have to try the impact driver with a short section of key to try loosen it up when the time comes to replace the pads or perhaps sooner. There's no access from the top of the caliper to try some long nosed vice grips on the locating pins either. I bet there's no anti-seize of any kind on the locating pin threads.

    So a partial victory.
    If it wasn't for a concise set of rules, we might have to resort to common sense!

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