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Thread: Suzuki FA50 moped maintenence

  1. #16
    Join Date
    17th December 2003 - 20:00
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    SV1000, RG500, RD350
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    Auckland
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    1,098
    Thinking LB with your dying idle problem, that it might also pay to check the float height and make sure the jets (especially the pilot jet) are clear and clean. Strip and clean everything with carb cleaner.
    FYI, mine does not need choke to start at all - use the choke and it will flood a bit. Starts first kick otherwise.
    Geoff
    (\_/)
    (O.o)
    (> <) Peace through superior firepower...
    Build your own dyno - PM me for the link of if you want to use it (bring beer)

  2. #17
    Join Date
    18th June 2008 - 18:43
    Bike
    suzuki fa50 1990
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    nowhere
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    16
    Quote Originally Posted by geoffm View Post
    Thinking LB with your dying idle problem, that it might also pay to check the float height and make sure the jets (especially the pilot jet) are clear and clean. Strip and clean everything with carb cleaner.
    FYI, mine does not need choke to start at all - use the choke and it will flood a bit. Starts first kick otherwise.
    Geoff
    Hey Geoff,
    Thanks, I pulled the carb off and gave it a good clean but didn't make any adjustments to anything - figured the crud removal was going to make a difference ...which it did. It's now running better, still dying off a little but not stalling. I'll try and track down a replacement petrol cap before messing with any carb settings but can you tell me how to set the float height?
    I'm also thinking I've not quite got the idle right yet (maybe I've still got it a little low).
    Cheers, L.B

  3. #18
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    18th June 2008 - 18:43
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    suzuki fa50 1990
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    Oh and I found a great source of parts - check out; http://www.plenternz.com

  4. #19
    Join Date
    17th December 2003 - 20:00
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    Quote Originally Posted by L.B View Post
    Hey Geoff,
    Thanks, I pulled the carb off and gave it a good clean but didn't make any adjustments to anything - figured the crud removal was going to make a difference ...which it did. It's now running better, still dying off a little but not stalling. I'll try and track down a replacement petrol cap before messing with any carb settings but can you tell me how to set the float height?
    I'm also thinking I've not quite got the idle right yet (maybe I've still got it a little low).
    Cheers, L.B
    The idle is (IIRC - check the links in the thread) 1500rpm, which is just before the clutch engages. Idle is a lot faster than most normal bikes. Set this first and the air screw (default position = 1.75 turns out from fully seated) before pulling the carb apart again. Chances are it will fix it.
    Float height is (again IIRC - check the links) 22mm. It usually involves:
    remove carb
    remove float bowl
    turn carb upside down
    check distance from top of float to the floatbowl gasket surface. Bend tab that hooks onto the float valve to adjust. Chances are it will be ok, unless it has been knocked at some stage while it is apart. lower float height means more fuel in the bowl, so it is likely to be rich on idle, and flood.
    While you are at it, check the float valve isn't ridged on the sealing surface, otherwise they won't seal properly and they flood. Again, it will probably be ok.

    If you are in Auckland, come around and we can have a play with it. I wanna see how fast it can go - wanna race

    If you are really keen, we can always put it on the dyno and see what it will do
    I have a tacho for measuring engine RPM.
    Put an inline filter in the fuel line. They cost $9 or so, and can catch rust flakes etc. Doesn't the FA50 have a plastic tank? Not likely to be rust then.
    Geoff
    (\_/)
    (O.o)
    (> <) Peace through superior firepower...
    Build your own dyno - PM me for the link of if you want to use it (bring beer)

  5. #20
    Join Date
    18th June 2008 - 18:43
    Bike
    suzuki fa50 1990
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    nowhere
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    Quote Originally Posted by geoffm View Post
    The idle is (IIRC - check the links in the thread) 1500rpm, which is just before the clutch engages. Idle is a lot faster than most normal bikes. Set this first and the air screw (default position = 1.75 turns out from fully seated) before pulling the carb apart again. Chances are it will fix it.
    Float height is (again IIRC - check the links) 22mm. It usually involves:
    remove carb
    remove float bowl
    turn carb upside down
    check distance from top of float to the floatbowl gasket surface. Bend tab that hooks onto the float valve to adjust. Chances are it will be ok, unless it has been knocked at some stage while it is apart. lower float height means more fuel in the bowl, so it is likely to be rich on idle, and flood.
    While you are at it, check the float valve isn't ridged on the sealing surface, otherwise they won't seal properly and they flood. Again, it will probably be ok.

    If you are in Auckland, come around and we can have a play with it. I wanna see how fast it can go - wanna race

    If you are really keen, we can always put it on the dyno and see what it will do
    I have a tacho for measuring engine RPM.
    Put an inline filter in the fuel line. They cost $9 or so, and can catch rust flakes etc. Doesn't the FA50 have a plastic tank? Not likely to be rust then.
    Geoff
    Unfortunatly I'm at the other end of the island - otherwise I'd definitely take you up on your offer (would be a laugh to race 'em).
    When I pulled the carb apart I wasn't sure how to adjust the float (didn't want to just randomly bend stuff) so I left it - but I notice it does drip out of the valve at the bottom of the carb so I think you're on to something there.
    I checked the float valve when I dismantled the carb and it looked OK.

    I've got the air screw adjusted at 1 3/4 turns, but wasn't sure what 1500rpm sounds like....the clutch engaging info is exactly what I need.

    One of the first things I did was pull the fuel and oil tanks off and clean them out - the (plastic) fuel tank has in-built filters, if you pull off the hose at the tank end you see a little white bit of plastic sticking out which is the filter, it's only a wee thing so worth cleaning.

    It's becoming less of a mode of transport and more of a lifestyle change......

    thanks again for the good advice

  6. #21
    Join Date
    17th December 2003 - 20:00
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    THey have a vacuum operated fuel tap - if you leave it on prime, it will flood. The vacuum tap only lets gas through when it is running.
    Mine dribbles a bit on the floor at random occaisions, although regular use and a carb cleanout has helped.
    Geoff
    (\_/)
    (O.o)
    (> <) Peace through superior firepower...
    Build your own dyno - PM me for the link of if you want to use it (bring beer)

  7. #22
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    2nd August 2008 - 08:57
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    '17 CRF 1000LD
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    Morrinsville
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    Quote Originally Posted by L.B View Post
    Looked up fuel economy - average seems to be 80MPG = 2.94L per 100km.
    ($6.23@$1.12)
    Sweet!
    Shit is that as good as it is likely to get? My 400cc scoot gives me about 70mpg and has a top speed on the flat of 155kph (on speedo)/140kph (GPS verified). Of course I gotta spend $270 or whatever it is per year on rego.
    ----------------------------------------------------
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    I realised that having 105kg of man sliding into my rear was a tad uncomfortable
    "If the cops didn't see it, I didn't do it!"
    - George Carlin (RIP)

  8. #23
    Join Date
    17th December 2003 - 20:00
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    Workshop manual

    Finall found a manual online for these babies:
    http://www.scribd.com/doc/3829256/suz-FA50-service1980

    Click the download link at the bottom of the page to save it to disk.
    (\_/)
    (O.o)
    (> <) Peace through superior firepower...
    Build your own dyno - PM me for the link of if you want to use it (bring beer)

  9. #24
    Join Date
    18th June 2008 - 18:43
    Bike
    suzuki fa50 1990
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    nowhere
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    Quote Originally Posted by geoffm View Post
    Finall found a manual online for these babies:
    http://www.scribd.com/doc/3829256/suz-FA50-service1980

    Click the download link at the bottom of the page to save it to disk.
    Awesome...thanks for the link.

    Mine is still a bit tempermental with fading and missing especially when going down hill, gave up and took it to a mechanic and paid him $50 to not fix it.
    But it goes and it's reliable and cheap..... which is all I was wanting.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    29th March 2009 - 19:43
    Bike
    1980 suzuki fa50
    Location
    blenheim
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    2
    i just bought an fa50 for 20 bucks!!!!!! i am stoaked as. i got it running mint, except it cant beat 35kmh, iv cleaned the carb, changed the exhaust, checked the plug, richened it up as much as possible, and i dont see why it wont do 50. iv got two mates with exact same scooters and they do 50/55. any help?????????

  11. #26
    Join Date
    9th November 2009 - 11:59
    Bike
    Suzuki FA50
    Location
    Nelson
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    27
    Mind if I dig this thread up?

    Who still had a FA50 in their possession?

  12. #27
    Join Date
    2nd March 2010 - 03:01
    Bike
    1986 Suzuki Fa-50
    Location
    Florida,
    Posts
    2
    Hello, I'm just new here. Does anybody know what size is the mirror of a 1986 Suzuki Fa-50? Any idea where I can get a 6v battery for it? Please let me know, thanks

  13. #28
    Join Date
    10th September 2008 - 21:23
    Bike
    Yamaha XV250
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    te awamutu
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    Geoffm / L.B do you still have your FA 50's?

    I have been offered a tidy one quite cheap. I'm doing the childrens cancer charity scooter ride in March. Very tempted to trailer it down to Wanganui for the run.

    Found this on youtube.


    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ImRNafWQMY
    " Rule books are for the Guidance of the Wise, and the Obedience of Fools"

  14. #29
    Join Date
    13th September 2013 - 10:30
    Bike
    1982 Suzuki Fa50
    Location
    Christchurch
    Posts
    69
    You cats still rolling these?

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