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Thread: How to install hardwire for radar

  1. #1
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    21st May 2008 - 20:00
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    How to install hardwire for radar

    Does antone have some tips for installing a hardwire for a Beltronics RX65 Radar detector into a 2004 Honda VTR 1000.

    Have purchased a stem mount and looking forward to getting it operating.

    Cheers.

  2. #2
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    3rd June 2005 - 23:06
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    nun
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    goodness.. something like that will never have been tried before. I'm sure people will be here soon to work through it with you.


    ALTERNATIVELY YOU COULD try THE search FUNCTION !

    .


    :slap:

  3. #3
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    5th February 2008 - 13:07
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    you really need a wiring diagram or a test meter or testlight, and lots of care and patience. Its going to be really hard to tell you where to wire it to.

    sorry.
    DB
    "I am a licenced motorcycle instructor, I agree with dangerousbastard, no point in repeating what he said."
    "read what Steve says. He's right."
    "What Steve said pretty much summed it up."
    "I did axactly as you said and it worked...!!"
    "Wow, Great advise there DB."
    WTB: Hyosung bikes or going or not.

  4. #4
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    13th September 2005 - 18:20
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    Probe with a test light for a wire in the fuse/junction box that is powered only when the key is switched on and hook into it. Just make sure it's after the fuse or fit an inline fuse as close as possible to the hook in. It's not that hard.
    If it wasn't for a concise set of rules, we might have to resort to common sense!

  5. #5
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    31st March 2005 - 02:18
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    or... if you have no fucken idea about electronic shit, you stick it straight onto the battery... just remember to constantly unplug (), and plug in when the bike is on/off... alternatively, you can ask how we laughed when boomer had to keep pushing starting his bike

    works for me... but then, don't ask me about wiring diagrams... would love to hook it up properly, but no idea
    Quote Originally Posted by Jane Omorogbe from UK MSN on the KTM990SM
    It's barking mad and if it doesn't turn you into a complete loon within half an hour of cocking a leg over the lofty 875mm seat height, I'll eat my Arai.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gremlin View Post
    or... if you have no fucken idea about electronic shit, you stick it straight onto the battery...
    I hope you didn't spoil the potential fun and put a fuse in there!
    If it wasn't for a concise set of rules, we might have to resort to common sense!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Max Preload View Post
    I hope you didn't spoil the potential fun and put a fuse in there!
    I was about to say no... but then I remembered that the hardwire had one inline... sadly, I don't even know what fun you are talking about

    The "fun" did come in a different way. Tried to make a 9 day trip south... bike kept cutting out on me, I was forced to turn back after waihi... I was extremely close to throwing it in front of a truck (even tho I like the zx10).

    After the trip, on a borrowed bike, I discovered it was all my fault. Somehow the bolt holding the earth for the power commander was almost completely undone... hence the circuit constantly failing, hence cutting in and out... woopsie
    Quote Originally Posted by Jane Omorogbe from UK MSN on the KTM990SM
    It's barking mad and if it doesn't turn you into a complete loon within half an hour of cocking a leg over the lofty 875mm seat height, I'll eat my Arai.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Max Preload View Post
    Probe with a test light for a wire in the fuse/junction box that is powered only when the key is switched on and hook into it. Just make sure it's after the fuse or fit an inline fuse as close as possible to the hook in. It's not that hard.
    I've always taken the easy way and put a wire tap on the plate light.

    Used the indicator light once but that didn't work too well

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gremlin View Post
    sadly, I don't even know what fun you are talking about
    That would be the sort of fun similar to where the live wire to the horn on your GPz600R comes off, the insulation melts on the header (because the horn is of course mounted behind the headers...) and glues the live wire to a header and blows a major fuse stopping the engine right in the middle of Takanini and Papakura on the southern motorway. You replace the fuse with the spare which also blows. So you find a roadside repair in the form of a piece of wire and head off again only to see smoke billowing from behind the fairing as the wiring loom burns...

    At least that's how I remember it happening... ummm, I mean that's how the the story I heard went...
    If it wasn't for a concise set of rules, we might have to resort to common sense!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by NinjaBoy View Post
    I've always taken the easy way and put a wire tap on the plate light.

    Used the indicator light once but that didn't work too well
    OHHHHH, now that I remember, DO NOT use the fuel pump circuit...

    do I even need to state that it basically has enough juice for the pump... and if you're using some... umm....
    Quote Originally Posted by Jane Omorogbe from UK MSN on the KTM990SM
    It's barking mad and if it doesn't turn you into a complete loon within half an hour of cocking a leg over the lofty 875mm seat height, I'll eat my Arai.

  11. #11
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    Heaps of data on here from previous threads.

    Some useful hints may be:

    A wiring diagram will save you heaps of time

    Some bikes have an accessory/auxillary output from the fuse box area. Ask someone who knows your bike electrics to check this out. My Kwak cable is wired from an accessory feed.

    Bel use the RJ11 type connector. You can buy a hard wire kit for about $25-50 complete with fuse depending on how flash you want things. Also places like Jaycar and Dick Smith sell RJ11 cables in their phone accessory sections. Often you can buy an adaptor or extension cable and cut one end off leaving a lead and the RJ11 plug in place.

    I made a lead for my ancient twin because the original wiring is so old. You will need two terminals on the lead to connect at the battery, cable ties, an inline fuse holder and the lead. A 12v switch is optional.

    I have also seen bikes with a cigar lighter socket wired to the battery using the original Bel smartplug. You can use other goodies like cellphone chargers, etc but the whole assembly takes a lot of space.

    Theres a bit there but have fun with the install. Good luck.

  12. #12
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    11th June 2006 - 15:52
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    Get a $5 test lamp frpm super cheap or repco.

    Find your fuse box, and identify the fuse that powers your brake light.
    It will normally be labelled. If its not, put the brake on, and pull fuses out one at a time until you find the correct one.

    Use the test lamp ($5) to identify which side of the fuse holder is "live" when the fuse is pulled out.

    You want to wire to the other side, so the fuse is protecting the cable to your radar detector.

    Be sure to get the polarity the correct way around.

    When you remove the cigar lighter plug from the end of the lead, the center pin (its the positive) goes to the fuse, and the outside pin goes to a good earth.
    David must play fair with the other kids, even the idiots.

  13. #13
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    Thanks for your advice. I'm going with the wiring plan, tester and patience. Great feedback much appreciated.

  14. #14
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    22nd September 2006 - 21:21
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    If your using the velcro solution to attach it to the Stem Mount, use the "Hook" piece on the mount and the "loop" part on the Radar Detector, that way the other pieces of cloth won't get stuck to the detector when you take it off the bike.

    If you bought the plastic weather guard, I didn't put the little piece of velcro on top of my detector which is meant to help hold the plastic lid on (looks ugly). In its place I have a big rubber band that I put around the whole thing for the extra security.

    To be able to hear the thing go off at road speeds I've seen a couple of solutions each with their own merits
    1. Screamer (in my view probably the best solution - though I don't have one)
    2. Single sided ear piece (best to get a headphone extension cable as well)
    3. "HARD" (expensive and relies on ensuring its recharged, good because its wireless)
    4. Hollow Piece of tube. (one end slips up inside your helmet beside your ear, the other goes just beside the speaker output and held in place with some bluetack. Cheapest and probably the most fool proof method)
    5. Mines hard wired back to an amplifier under my seat (also mixes in my MP3 player) and I have speakers embeded in my helmet, which lets me also wear my earplugs

    .... back in green and feeling great ....



  15. #15
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    If the wiring on a VTR is similar to the Blackbird, you can run the positive lead from the switched outlet of the fuse box under your seat - see pic. Neutral can be connected to the battery terminal. Having it switched eliminates the risk of draining the battery.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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