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Thread: Brake caliper bolts stuck

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by pete376403 View Post
    Grind or cut off a short length of allen key, put it in the appropriate size socket, put socket onto impact driver. Just like we did with the FZR disk rotor bolts.
    You can buy readymade allen key sockets......
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  2. #17
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    Over night had a thought.-Again after trying other peoples solutions
    Try a 1/4 inch socket allen key.-basicly the heads gonna be half knackered anyhoo so no foul.
    ALSO --as tempting as it is to soak the whole area in CRC - be very careful what gets soaked in the stuff.--would be kinda sucky if ya piston seals went bye byes.
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  3. #18
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    Cheers guys.

    I'm thinking this part from my favourite tool store will work. If I place it into a 1/4" to 1/2" converter, and bang it with the impact driver it should work okay I reckon.
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  4. #19
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    Is it possible to get vice-grips (small ones) on the pins between the pads (where they go across the disc)?

  5. #20
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    Yes it is, but that's a ridiculously rough way to do it. I'd reserve that only if all other methods failed and I didn't care if I rooted the locating pins to do it.

    At about $25 a pin, it would also be my most expensive option.
    And I to my motorcycle parked like the soul of the junkyard. Restored, a bicycle fleshed with power, and tore off. Up Highway 106 continually drunk on the wind in my mouth. Wringing the handlebar for speed, wild to be wreckage forever.

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  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ixion View Post
    It's only 3mm. Won't take too much torque.
    On the RF it's in the centre of a very wide, fine thread too - perfect for jamming up.

    Shock and CRC are your friends. CRC it, whack it with a hammer - try "wiggling" it - back and forth is fine - it helps work the CRC in. If it starts moving but stays tight on the way out, don't go too fast. The bolt can heat with friction and bind up again...

    As someone said - high temp grease applied on re-assembly. Copper or silver are both good anti fouling compounds, one being considerably cheaper than the other of course...

    Quote Originally Posted by riffer View Post
    ...bang it with the impact driver it should work okay I reckon.
    Bloody good idea - I tried this a while back with a battery drill and it woprked well - set the torque to low (pretend it's a small screw) so it "hammers" as the torque clutch slips. If that doesn't work, ramp the torque up and bit and try again... keep trying till it (hopefully) starts to move.
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  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by riffer View Post
    Okay, the back brake pads need doing on the RF.

    The caliper has two pad locating bolts on it, and they use a 3mm Allen hex key to loosen them.

    But the pad locating bolts are stuck, and I've rooted a perfectly good bondhus allen key trying to get them loose.

    Any recommendations on a fluid to loosen these bolts off?
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  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by riffer View Post
    Yes it is, but that's a ridiculously rough way to do it. I'd reserve that only if all other methods failed and I didn't care if I rooted the locating pins to do it.

    At about $25 a pin, it would also be my most expensive option.
    I used one of those star looking key's the american use that was just bigger. And hammerd it in. They have tapered front so was easy to get it in.

    I think to buy new bolts cost less than 5 dollars for both sides. I should add on the suzuki
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  9. #24
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    Here's that assembly of adapters and a 4mm socket (not the 3mm because even my 1/4" set doesn't go that small - getting into ignition spanner territory here). Personally, I wouldn't want to give that even a light hit unless it was your socket.. hehe

    Why they don't simply use the much better system of a stepped pin with an R-clip is beyond me.

    Quote Originally Posted by Max Preload View Post
    Good idea, but it's tricky geting a 3mm socket in 3/8" drive much less 1/2". I guess a few adapters would do it but I wouldn't want to strike my own 1/4" drive 3mm sockets on the end with a 1/2" impact driver, especially through a series of adapters down to 1/4" square
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  10. #25
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    RFs have back brakes??

    Interesting........
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