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Thread: RG150 fork help

  1. #16
    Join Date
    18th September 2006 - 20:54
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    96 Honda RS125
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    599
    Yes you need to pull the forks apart with a bit of effort...
    the tips I have for you are:
    1 Check the forks for any rust etc, if need be very carefully sand the affected are with the likes of 1000 sand paper, and polish it smooth.

    2 always use the genuine seals. I have used non genuine seals three times, and every single time they leak again very quickly, theyre just crap! genuine last 5 times as long

    have fun and I hope this was of some use to you
    PM me or email me at mail@timmcarthur.co.nz for $45 knee sliders incl GST and shipping

  2. #17
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    19th August 2007 - 00:07
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    wait, you have located and loosened the bolt in the bottom of the fork at the axle end so it's no longer holding things together, right?

    ok, keep yanking it

  3. #18
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    16th November 2005 - 07:48
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    Quote Originally Posted by FilthyLuka View Post
    When you yank the top stanchion, you need to be damn near brutal. Its not just a gentle tug mate.


    Lock the bottom in the vice, grab the top stanchion, push it in a bit then YANK THE LIVING FUCK OUT OF IT! Did you drain the oil, take out the spring, remove dust cap, remove the circlip and remove the damper rod bolt?
    Brutal, I have held the forks in the tripple clamps, and used a block of wood and a hammer and beat the crap out of it, just doesnt even seam like it wants to move, all bolts and things are out.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tim 39 View Post
    Yes you need to pull the forks apart with a bit of effort...
    the tips I have for you are:
    1 Check the forks for any rust etc, if need be very carefully sand the affected are with the likes of 1000 sand paper, and polish it smooth.

    2 always use the genuine seals. I have used non genuine seals three times, and every single time they leak again very quickly, theyre just crap! genuine last 5 times as long

    have fun and I hope this was of some use to you
    Tips taken, thanks.

    Quote Originally Posted by motorbyclist View Post
    wait, you have located and loosened the bolt in the bottom of the fork at the axle end so it's no longer holding things together, right?

    ok, keep yanking it
    Yep, amd I thought getting that damper bolt out would be the hard part

    For the record Qkkid was in my bed, not the other way round

    Quote Originally Posted by Yow Ling View Post
    Pumba is a wise man.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    14th May 2008 - 20:13
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    For what it's worth remember that you are not just trying to pop the seal out when you are pulling the forks apart, what is actually happening is that the slider bushing on the bottom of the inner tube is trying to drive out both the upper guide bushing and the fork seal at the same time, so a fair bit of force is required - maybe more than you realise? You also need to make sure you are driving the staunchion out of the leg 'square' as this will not only be easier but is neccessary to avoid damaging the bushings.
    If it is really not a happening thing there is an old trick where you can fill the fork with oil and then pressurise it to hydraulically drive the seal out.....bloody messy though
    I have also heard of people doing a similar thing using air pressure, though I'd imagine it would require a pretty decent compressor and probably some sort of adapter to screw into the thread at the bottom of the leg.
    If all else fails (and it sounds like you are getting towards that...) bite the bullet and take the forks down to a decent shop, or better still a suspension specialist like ProRide on the North Shore and pay them to do the job while you go down the road and have a nice relaxing beer/coffee/ciggy or whatever spins your wheels
    Best of luck with it

    Before you judge a man, walk a mile in his shoes. After that, who cares? ...He's a mile away and you've got his shoes

  5. #20
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    19th August 2007 - 00:07
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pumba View Post
    Yep, amd I thought getting that damper bolt out would be the hard part
    lol, we (the uni bike club) had a similar problem with a fork that refused to pop apart, also from a suzuki.

    turned out that the bolt wasn't actually free, so actually remove it - if it's still there it's still holding on and the fork innards are spinning with it

    having found we couldn't bodge a suitable tool together to address this, we stopped by a mechanic's place and dropped them off, he said he would be able to do it in 10 minutes so we came back after a 30min lunch break and they were neatly done and ready for us to reassemble

  6. #21
    Join Date
    11th June 2007 - 08:55
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    Quote Originally Posted by FilthyLuka View Post
    When you yank the top stanchion, you need to be damn near brutal. Its not just a gentle tug mate.


    Lock the bottom in the vice, grab the top stanchion, push it in a bit then YANK THE LIVING FUCK OUT OF IT! Did you drain the oil, take out the spring, remove dust cap, remove the circlip and remove the damper rod bolt?
    You only have to be brutal if you are doing it cold, and that is in no way advisable. If the forks have a bushing immediately under the seal and a sliding bushing on the lower part of the chrome slider ( likely )you are going to feather / tear the edges of those bushings as you ''slide hammer'' it out.
    Use a heat gun to warm the area of the outer fork tube where the seal is fitted, continue to do so until it is uncomfortable to touch. It will now slide hammer out very very easily and save your bushings.

    Ph: 06 751 2100 * Email: robert@kss.net.nz
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