Well, it looks like it's not that simple to take the seat off a CBR600F3 after all:
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you...m_a_cbr_600_f3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NDWQHdWudvE
Whoever it was on the GSX600F yesterday, I've a really good Haynes maintenance manual for this bike (and associated GSX models) if you need one.
Cras ingens iterabimus aequor.
Clutchless shifting up- sweet
Blipping on the other hand is not as easy as it sounds. I did a few successful on my way to work this morning.
Ooo cheers for that Angel I'll get Brian to check in here.
What's the point in living if you don't feel alive?
Toying with ones mortality shouldn't be this much fun.
...and not necessary, only for effect. Same effect can be had by clutchless shifting down, which is so piss easy that it's almost a natural thing to do.
Another thing that makes me smirk is that slalom carry on that some do, thinking they are warmer the tyres up, when most would agree, its done because of boredom.
For those with recently acquired CBR600F3's wondering about suspension adjustments, check out this guide:
http://www.gostar-racing.com/informa...ion_set-up.htm
Special Note: The PDF version has an error to do with sag measurement. Only use the HTML web site version.
That's what tyre warmers are for, there is not enough rubber connecting to the road to have any effect, unlike F1/V8 Supercars where they use the technique to great effect. Motorcycle tyres warm up by going around and around
Counter steering happens naturally, it is simple geometry. Some firmly believe they are making it happen, as long as they make a 'conscious' effort to lightly pressure the inside bar whilst cornering, then maybe they are.
Legs and or arse can aid a bike to corner with ease.
Tyre warmers are used on track tyres because track tyres are typically design to operate from 65 degrees Celsius and up and don't work effectively below this temperature. Additionally you don't want your tyres cooling off between sessions, and using up a heat cycle. Tyres designed for the road have more typical operating ranges starting at 30 degrees Celsius, and hence don't require the assistance of tyre warmers.
The majority of motorcycle tyres are constructed radially. As a result weaving wont warm them up. Breaking and accelerating will warm them up. They need the force applied in the direction of travel.
The amount of tyre touching the road has little to do with the tyre temperature. Tyre flex is what causes the majority of the eating effect. Hence the need for breaking and accelerating to heat the tyre.
Sure counter steering happens naturally when everything is working how your brain is expecting. This approach doesn't work when your brain is confronted with a new situation. It's just the way the human brain is built, and we can't change it.
When you are required to think for yourself you can't access those pre-stored "automatic" reactions. And if you don't know how to consciously counter-steer you won't.
Even the simple act of wanting to turning in tighter may not be able to be served by our sub-conscious brain if it hasn't learned this ability yet, and if that is the case, only the conscious brain will be able to respond.
We had a young chap on a learner ride once that had heard about this slalom tyre warming bullshit...he had to pick his bike up off the road 100mts after leaving the lunch break, you may know him Phil, he had GSX250 back then and had been riding about 4 months.
"Angel"?! Well, that's not the worst nickname I've had. I might actually take a liking to it, unless of course, you're dyslexic (in which case I apologise in advance).
'Blipping' is quite simple, most people don't even realise that they're doing it. If you are riding at 60km/h and need to stop at a stop sign 100m away, deciding to deccelerate by changing down (from fourth to first/neutral) you will 'blip' automatically in order to keep the bike running smoothly. So if in such cases you deccelerate smoothly, keep the bike in full control and within normal operating limits, you're doing it right.
Depends on your riding style. Quite a few riders (i.e. performance oriented L4 riders) prefer this technique when accelerating out of corners. I personally use the clutch for all gear shifts, but than again, I don't often have to change down when entering corners.
Brian, you can have the manual. I'll take it with me next time I come along.
Cras ingens iterabimus aequor.
Oh shoot, sorry!! Um just a little, auto correct usually fixes most things for me. But Angel could suit you. Why do they have to make the word dyslexic so difficult to look at!
I have come to the conclusion to not try it on purpose in the wet. What I was doing before (which as you describe I may already be doing it to a degree) works fine while riding in wet at night. bumpity bumpity locking up is not overly fun. May also be because I tried it from 2nd-1st?
What's the point in living if you don't feel alive?
Toying with ones mortality shouldn't be this much fun.
Blipping is the only way I've found to smooth out the downshifts (with clutch) on my tractor, otherwise it feels like I'm clunking gears. Don't always get it right, though, not much comes naturally.
Saw the inside of a gearbox for the first time on the weekend, didn't really understand exactly what was going on but he too said the clutch wasn't really necessary for changes.
Moe: Well, I'm better than dirt. Well, most kinds of dirt. I mean not that fancy store bought dirt. That stuffs loaded with nutrients. I...I can't compete with that stuff.- The Simpsons
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