Fuel Consumption ...

[dangerous]

Therefore the litres used per km is higher right?

correct........ weres the damn book

[Hitcher]

Buy an ST1300 and you get all of this information on your dash readout! Ta dah!

My best economy so far is 56.1kml (downhill in top with a tail wind descending into the Waitotara valley), compared with 13.2kml climbing out the other side...

A good fang off the lights gets things down into single numbers.

Normal highway cruising (110-120kmh in top) sees things hover at between 20-22kml.

I must try 96 octane and see if this makes any discernable difference.

[dangerous]

I must try 96 octane and see if this makes any discernable difference.

none apart from sooting ya pipes up and cloging the engine up with more bad NZ fuel additives...... 96 is the same crap as 91 but with extra benzine and other shit to raise the octain up which is not a good thing...... bring back lead I say.

[riffer]

I used to get 17 km/l when I had my bike restricted (2LM spec), but since its been derestricted (2NK spec) its down to 15 km/l.

Of course, its a bit quicker now... but it has nearly 30 more HP.

[avgas]

Trouble is whole family, 3 of us go for a ride might as well take the chev!

After i had a few guys work on my old RG it went like a rocket.......but my mate got better fuel consumtion driving his 3L twinturbo 300ZX

[avgas]

yeah but dont forget that race gas /ave gas burns a lot faster than the shit at the servo... so you wont get a true km/lt reading

Strange, most of the time when i run a higher octane gas i get slighter better fuel consumtion. Only objection to this rule was my RG, which ran 10k/l on 98 and 8k/l on avgas.
GB ran 30k/l on 98 and 35k/l on avgas.
havent been able to find some avgas for the ZXR though.
but i rode those bikes flat tack alot of the time - it was fun on avgas

[ktulu]

I was pretty gutted when I took my RGV out for its first ride and I had to switch to reserve after only 130km... then filled it up almost immediately with 12.5 litres.... that sucks... just over 10kms to a litre, worse then my parents 5.7l V8

[MSTRS:Me]

I had a 1974 CB500/4 with 610cc kit in it - that was one seriously thirsty mutha. Used to ride L/Hutt - Levin a bit in those days (1977) That is about 100k one way. Bike had a 3gal tank (13.5l). If I rode it hard I could empty the tank each way.

[Racey Rider]

yeah but dont forget that race gas /ave gas burns a lot faster than the shit at the servo... so you wont get a true km/lt reading

Please check your info.
I thought 91 was the fastest burning fuel. 96 is slower, Ave gas is slower still.
Which is why if your motor is detonating on 91, you increace the octane to 96 (or higher) - which will produce a slower burning flame front, which is one way to stop detonation.
Also the slower burning flame front CAN create less power in your motor (unless your motor is set up for it), which causes you to twist your wrist more to get the same speed, thus using more fuel.

We will both check our info then.

And search this site for other "Octane" "Detonation" threads.

PS. From another thread.

.....
You shoud find that when running on 100oct (leaded the real oct boster) you get a smother and more powerfull mid range it is certinly noticable in the high compression Guzzi but not as much in the VTR.

Note: High Compression Guzze. A different story to normal compression bikes.

Off another web site:
BURNING SPEED is the speed at which a fuel releases its energy. In a high speed internal combustion engine there is very little time (real time - not crank rotation) for the fuel to release its energy. Peak cylinder pressure should occur around 20 degrees ATDC. If the fuel is still burning after this, it is not contributing to peak cylinder pressure, which is what the rear wheels see.

Also see: Fuel and Fuel systems

Why do we keep having this thread?

Look, peoples:

1. The higher octane rating means the fuel is less prone to pre-igniting ("pinking"). Unless your engine is high-compression and the manufacturer specifically calls for high octane, you're wasting your time and money using high-octane petrol. If your bike must drink 95 RON, then use Gull's 97 (?), and if it must have higher than that, use BP's Ultimate.
2. Most high-octane fuels apart from imported refined fuels (BP 98, and Gull's fuels) are loaded with toluene and xylene, which burns dirty, and does your engine no good.
3. Motorcyle engine management systems are usually unable to adjust to different fuels (no EGO sensor), so apart from reducing pinking by running high-octane petrol, you're better off with the lowest octane rating your bike is happy with, as it will give MORE power than the slower-igniting high octane fuels, won't soot up the plugs and rings, won't wreck rubber/platic components, and will cost less.

If you're really concerned about what fuel to use, then (a) find out what is recommended for your machine; (b) do some research on the Interweb to find out about octane ratings, and (c) don't bother asking other people - the 'info' you get will be anecdotal, subjective and unscientific. "Feels faster", "runs smoother", "accelerates more quickerer" is never quantified, and therefore almost useless.

Hope this helps.

[FlyingDutchMan]

Couldn't agree more RR. I didn't know about the other fuels being better quality though... Apparently the refinery at marsden point is getting an upgrade finished this year - one can only hope we getter better petrol.

My bike was getting 17km/l a couple pf weeks ago, then I changed the oil and got the tyre pressures right and its now doing 21km/l. I'm wondering how much better it will go with a carby tune and new plugs.

[Krusti]

none apart from sooting ya pipes up and cloging the engine up with more bad NZ fuel additives...... 96 is the same crap as 91 but with extra benzine and other shit to raise the octain up which is not a good thing...... bring back lead I say.

In sons MX bike, used to run 2 thirds 91, 1 third Avgas, was told it was as close as you can get to old super.

Fert pilot who we got avgas off reckons their fuel was 120 something plus octane which was the minumim allowed. Then the old stuff got turned into race fuel as soon as rating dropped.

We bought 200 litre drum off Mobil cost us $2 litre had to sign for it declaring we would not use in road vehicle. Yeah Right. Off pilot $1.27

[Wonko]

Fresh off the clock 20.5km/l from the tank to the autoban yesterday, 18km/l to Hamilton and back to Ngaruawahia

[vifferman]

Commuting on the VTR, I used to get about 10km/litre (28mpg) and sometimes as many as 11km/l (33mpg).

On the VFR (~same HP, slightly heavier), I get about 15km/l (45mpg)commuting, and up to 19 km/l (52mpg) on the highway. Strange thing is, because of the way the fuel injection works, a large throttle opening is (stoichiometrically speaking) more fuel efficient, due to more air being rammed through the engine.

[Hitcher]

a large throttle opening is (stochiometrically speaking) more fuel efficient, due to more air being rammed through the engine.

He shoots, he nearly scores... Stoichiometric. Very nice attempt.

[dangerous]

[COLOR=Blue]Please check your info.

Yeah... sorry bout that, been tied up on another thread...... yeah, my balls up RR it appairs I have my info back to frount, my bad.
A few years back Chalange set up down here importing there fuel frm Oz, I have seen tests done on ther fuel and the crappy NZ stuff.... Chalanges fuel 96 came in at an avarage of 98 were as NZ fuel 96 came in at an avarage of 91 and 91 avaraged 87..... so NZ fuel is shit.
You n/i crowd what fuel companies do you have up ther I have heard of Gull do they import there fuel..... and I believe you can get 98oct from Mobil, be great to have the choice down here...... BTW Caltex brought out Chalange.... that was the end of that.