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Thread: Flasher relay

  1. #16
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    1st September 2014 - 14:46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Laava View Post
    You may have too much load for the relay. It is designed for a lighter load than incandescent bulbs. You could just buy a cheapo two pin relay for supercheese and swap it in.
    Ive got a second hand original relay from a recked bike.. and tried that in.. the fuse blows now.. ive wired it up to the wiring diagram for the bike so everything should be good.. so the correct relay for the bulbs is now in..

    any idea of the problem now?

    Cheers

  2. #17
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    ive also traced the wires to/from the relay - turn signal switch - handle bar brake switch - fuses

    nothing looks wrong, nothing not plugged in, no burn marks or damaged bits..

  3. #18
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    If it is blowing a fuse then there is probably a short in the circuit. You will have to test every wire in the circuit with a multimeter until you find the fault. You could try taking all the bulbs out first and then seeing if the fuse still blows. If not, put bulbs in one by one until the fuse blows.
    A multimeter will be your friend.
    Only a Rat can win a Rat Race!

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by aaronnaz View Post
    ive also traced the wires to/from the relay - turn signal switch - handle bar brake switch - fuses

    nothing looks wrong, nothing not plugged in, no burn marks or damaged bits..
    My guess is that the wire going to the handlebar brake switch is a earth and the relay is not correct for that wiring configeration,
    maybe aftermarket fitted to the wrecked bike.
    That terminal probably is for a pilot light ,so you are creating a direct short when you flick the flasher on.
    Test the terminal for 12v with the wire unplugged.
    Test for continuity between wire that goes to brake switch and chassis of bike.
    Political Correctness, the chief weapon of whiney arse bastards

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by buggerit View Post
    My guess is that the wire going to the handlebar brake switch is a earth and the relay is not correct for that wiring configeration,
    maybe aftermarket fitted to the wrecked bike.
    That terminal probably is for a pilot light ,so you are creating a direct short when you flick the flasher on.
    Test the terminal for 12v with the wire unplugged.
    Test for continuity between wire that goes to brake switch and chassis of bike.
    sorry if i was unclear. the relay ive got from the wrecked bike is the original for the bike. same model number that came from the factory. the bike is pretty standard all round so i think its safe to say that the configuration is how its supposed to be?

    i think its also safe to say that the relay works? because its blowing a fuse.. if it didnt work the lights would just not come on. do you guys agree or should i test the relay (how do i test a 3pin relay)

  6. #21
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    Just looked at wiring diag for you bike, are u sure you have the wires on the correct terminals?
    Political Correctness, the chief weapon of whiney arse bastards

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by buggerit View Post
    Just looked at wiring diag for you bike, are u sure you have the wires on the correct terminals?
    yeah i think so.. the bikes a 400RR-N. ground in the center and i tried other 2 wires in each of the other 2 pins.. one way nothing happened expect slowly drain my battery and the other the fuse blows. so im guessn the fuse blowing is the correct way.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Laava View Post
    If it is blowing a fuse then there is probably a short in the circuit. You will have to test every wire in the circuit with a multimeter until you find the fault. You could try taking all the bulbs out first and then seeing if the fuse still blows. If not, put bulbs in one by one until the fuse blows.
    A multimeter will be your friend.
    this is my next mission. i went to botany hondas and kinda pitched the problem to them they came up with are your headlights the correct wattage, saying that the original bulbs count towards blowing a fuse or not. i havnt checked them but i will, to cross that out.. will do the indicator check like you suggested as well.

    now when it comes to checking all the wires.. what do you mean by circuit? how do i go about this process? ( i do have a multimeter)

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by aaronnaz View Post
    yeah i think so.. the bikes a 400RR-N. ground in the center and i tried other 2 wires in each of the other 2 pins.. one way nothing happened expect slowly drain my battery and the other the fuse blows. so im guessn the fuse blowing is the correct way.
    What are the marks on the terminals?
    If numbers 31=earth
    49a= to flashers
    49= supply voltage
    Political Correctness, the chief weapon of whiney arse bastards

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by buggerit View Post
    What are the marks on the terminals?
    If numbers 31=earth
    49a= to flashers
    49= supply voltage
    if by terminal you mean on the flasher relay then there are NO marks, letters or numbers at all on it.

  11. #26
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    so the headlights are UK spec. 60/55W. (JAP spec is 60/35W) which is suspect cause all the other bulbs are JAP spec including the brake lights and the blinkers..
    and the headlight bulbs are made in germany..

    could this actually be the problem??

    i know 60/55W means 55w on low beam and 60w on high beam...
    could explain why the blinkers took long to start up with the electronic flasher relay

  12. #27
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    if you hook the power feed directly to the indicator wire I think you will find the indicators will operate(but not flash)which will prove
    there is no short in those 2 curciuts.
    If everything worked before but slowly with the other flasher unit, it points to either the new unit or how you have wired it.
    I think the bike shop is sending you on a wild goose chase.
    Political Correctness, the chief weapon of whiney arse bastards

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by buggerit View Post
    if you hook the power feed directly to the indicator wire I think you will find the indicators will operate(but not flash)which will prove
    there is no short in those 2 curciuts.
    If everything worked before but slowly with the other flasher unit, it points to either the new unit or how you have wired it.
    I think the bike shop is sending you on a wild goose chase.
    i tried that power feed to indicators.. it works but still takes time. i push the switch to either side.. takes about 10 secs then lights up

    i thought mayb it could be the battery.. so i hooked up my battery to another (still good) battery i had in my garage and same story.


    a bit of background: when i got the bike the radiator fan was not working.. i found out a fuse had blown.. replaced the fuse and its working now..
    im thinking why did the fan fuse blow..mayb there was a short.. mayb there is still something pulling more current to the fan? il try unplug the fan and try this (power feed to indicator) step again.. see if anything changes.

    running out of ideas

  14. #29
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    Perhaps the fan became obstructed during normal operation which caused a current spike resulting in a blown fuse. Doubt the fan would be related to indicators.

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by breakaway View Post
    Perhaps the fan became obstructed during normal operation which caused a current spike resulting in a blown fuse. Doubt the fan would be related to indicators.
    actually yeah there was a stone that had gotten stuck between the blade and its case that made it stop.

    all these wires are linked fan-horn-dash lights-indicators etc..so i thought it might be contributing.

    thanks for the feedback guys really appreciate it

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