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Thread: Angled crimp spade connector?

  1. #1
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    9th November 2005 - 18:45
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    Angled crimp spade connector?

    Hi,

    Failed my WOF for a bad rear tyre and a horn that went "foof".

    The horn is a Stiebel I mounted inside the fairing of my Z750S.

    The reason for the failure is the crimp/spade connector had snapped - because I'd had to bend it a bit to fit between the Stiebel and the tank.

    Does anyone know anyone who sells crimp connectors that are, like, right angled or something? (See below)

    (Moving the horn to give more clearance so I can just use a "normal" connector MIGHT be possible, but MUCH more hassle.)

    Cheers,


    (
    Side question: The Steibel is the smaller one that doesn't need a relay - it's just connected to the wiring for the original horn. Works fine - when the connectors are connected.

    What's the chance I could run the stiebel and original horn at the sme time? (in parallel). Would I be expected to blow a fuse or melt wiring?
    )


    Need something like:
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Measure once, cut twice. Practice makes perfect.

  2. #2
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    25th June 2008 - 16:11
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    why not just get a standard connector and just bend it all the way over, simple quick solution and if it breaks no biggie as a pack of 20 only costs a couple of bucks, or if a last ditch effort just solder the wire straight onto the connector on the horn

  3. #3
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    yup[ as said]
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  4. #4
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    I wouldn't solder it unless you then cover it with hot-melt glue to stop the solder joint breaking with vibration.

    Two horns in parallel may be a bit much for the wiring/fuse. Can you check the load?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by toyboy View Post
    why not just get a standard connector and just bend it all the way over, simple quick solution and if it breaks no biggie as a pack of 20 only costs a couple of bucks,...
    That's what I did - and is why it snapped. The crimps are not too much $$, but eventually I'd run out of slack in the wire, and it's just not tidy.


    Quote Originally Posted by toyboy View Post
    ...or if a last ditch effort just solder the wire straight onto the connector on the horn
    Solder is good for electrical connections, but not much good for handling mechanical stress. I think it'd fall off soon. (ah, yeah, what skunk said.)


    Quote Originally Posted by Skunk View Post
    Two horns in parallel may be a bit much for the wiring/fuse. Can you check the load?
    Um, measure the resistance, using a regular multi-meter?
    Measure once, cut twice. Practice makes perfect.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by pzkpfw View Post
    That's what I did - and is why it snapped. The crimps are not too much $$, but eventually I'd run out of slack in the wire, and it's just not tidy.
    Must have been a really thin copper connector like in your picture?, the ones i got from real cheap auto or repco (one or the other) are really thick ones (silver colored metal), extremely hard to bend with your fingers (easy to bend with a couple of sets of pliers), would take a hell of a lot of bending back and forth to break one of those even the plastic crimp sleave is made out of a super tough plastic that really needs a good proper crimper to crush down on it to be able to get to crush the metal to the wire

  7. #7
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    um why didnt you just strip the standard horn, clean it and get your wof?
    you will find that the plate nut is done to tight.
    your not one of those engineer types that over complicates everything are you?
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  8. #8
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    Go into ya local appliance repair shop and ask there. The right angled ones are quite common in the electrical world. Same for 230 volt as for 12volt AC or DC. After Ya crimp them on a dab of solder is a good move because of the vibs from the bike and it makes for a better connection. You can also get plastic snap on covers for the R/angle connectors ask for some of them to.
    Last edited by 1 Free Man; 29th August 2008 at 18:33. Reason: missed something out.


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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by toyboy View Post
    Must have been a really thin copper connector like in your picture?
    Possibly just too cheap. After bending the the connector (between the spadey part and the wire crimped part) it pretty much snapped right away. Lucky it lasted as long as it did.

    Quote Originally Posted by avgas View Post
    um why didnt you just strip the standard horn, clean it and get your wof?
    you will find that the plate nut is done to tight.
    your not one of those engineer types that over complicates everything are you?
    I could have fixed that in the shop, as the wiring, connectors and horn were all still there (the new wires daisy-chain off the original ones, I could have disconnected the Stiebel and just plugged in the original horn).

    But I would have needed the tyre anyway.

    ...and yes, I do overcomplicate things. (CF my posts on tail tidy's: I ask what's the best way to put on a license plate light, and how best to display the WOF, and most people say "why bother"! :-) ).

    Quote Originally Posted by 1 Free Man View Post
    Go into ya local appliance repair shop and ask there. The right angled ones are quite common in the electrical world.
    Bling!


    Edit to add: they are called "flags" in the connector world. I finally found them at "Advance electrical", which as a bonus will give me a staff discount cos of who I work for. Yay.

    And finally... Woffed. Tyres by Motorad (Dunlop roadsmart by James Deuce suggestion), WOF by TSS. All good, except for the tall grumpy bugger at the door of Motorad. Now to find time to ride. May get the tyres scrubbed in by the time the next WOF is due.
    Measure once, cut twice. Practice makes perfect.

  10. #10
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    Yes they are used a lot on stoves so ask your friendly appliance repair man. Easier yet - just solder the wire directly to the horn and cut out the middle man.

  11. #11
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    Go to Jaycar, failing that you can buy online at RS Components or Farnell...

  12. #12
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    Pop into MasterTrade or Corys they should sort ya out
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