The Delta Project

[quallman1234]

I have some copper material, so just going to see what a bit more compression will do. Theoretically it gives more bottom end.
A wilder cam is on the cards next.

I still have your email of your mods that you've done.
Lady P needs MORE OOMMMPH !!!

What has fishie done too his? Just interested.

[nudemetalz]

Zilch,...but his is faster...dunno why, maybe the carb and pipe setup.

[SHELRACING]

I have some copper material, so just going to see what a bit more compression will do. Theoretically it gives more bottom end.
A wilder cam is on the cards next.

I still have your email of your mods that you've done.
Lady P needs MORE OOMMMPH !!!

I don't know what my compression ratio is, But the motor has hell of a kick back if you're not careful starting up.

Credit where it's due the Loncin is bloody fast off the line. Nothing beats me off the start. It's just after that she struggles to fend off all the Jappos once we start winding up.

[nudemetalz]

Yeah, mine is relatively quick off the line...but it certainly loses out in a straight line to the FXR/CB-T, strokers etc.....

[SHELRACING]

Here's the latest pics of the Delta, Starting to look good now. The fork seals arrived today so I will get those done over the weekend.

The exhaust is finished, it really was worth the time, effort, and cost. Looks really trick. Hope it performs as well as it looks!!

Having some issues fitting the front wheel cos I don't have the correct axle and spacers. But I'm working on it. If anyone knows of or has an axle.... help!!

I wasn't happy with the seat I had, although it fits, it looked a bit naf. So it's been chucked. The new seat needs more thought.

I fitted the FXR fairing and it looks pretty good, does nothing to help keep the weigh down tho, so I might just take it off and use it at bigger events like Taupo....

[Slingshot]

If anyone knows of or has an axle.... help!!

What diameter and length do you need?

[speedpro]

While the forks are apart, if you aren't fitting cartridge emulators, you might want to think about mods to increase the compression damping. They do need a bit more to control attitude under brakes. I played around with the preload spacers as well and in conjunction with the flat rate springs from one of the FZR sets of forks, I ended up with only 5mm or so of preload when the sag was pretty well right. I used Motorex 20w at Robert Taylor's suggestion and initially at the standard setting of 112mm airgap (no springs, forks fully compressed). I later added another 30ml of oil but I reckon it might have been a little bit too much. The oil was added to control dive under brakes. I also adjusted the emulators at the same time. In standard trim it dove under brakes and the rear wasn't too hard to lift. Now it is pretty good and seems to only lift a bit even with a big handful of brake.

While you have it apart as well one thing I did which seems to have worked well (for me) was moving the clipons from under the triple clamp to on top. This raised the handlebars making it a bit more cumfy for this old guy plus it dropped the front and steepened the steering. Once I sort out the new chamber I think I will have ground clearance problems still so that 20mm might have to be found somewhere else but you have to be pretty well cranked over to touch down.

Great chassis though, you will love it.

[Rick 52]

Here's the latest pics of the Delta, Starting to look good now. The fork seals arrived today so I will get those done over the weekend.

The exhaust is finished, it really was worth the time, effort, and cost. Looks really trick. Hope it performs as well as it looks!!

Having some issues fitting the front wheel cos I don't have the correct axle and spacers. But I'm working on it. If anyone knows of or has an axle.... help!!

I wasn't happy with the seat I had, although it fits, it looked a bit naf. So it's been chucked. The new seat needs more thought.

I fitted the FXR fairing and it looks pretty good, does nothing to help keep the weigh down tho, so I might just take it off and use it at bigger events like Taupo....

Looking very flash its neater than my atempt carnt wait to see it going

[SHELRACING]

What diameter and length do you need?

I managed to find the correct axle at Buckets'n'Bits fo $10 bucks. Which 1s 15mm dia by 240mm.

Now I have the correct axle. The problem I have is the TZ wheel has a 37/12 bearing. Replacement 37/15 bearings from the local engineering shop $58 each
Ouch!!

I might check with Bike Torque and see if they can come up with something.

[SHELRACING]

Thanks Speedpro, do you know the recommended oil quantity for each fork. I did drain the oil and one fork was dry, the other had 300ml.

Did you find moving the bars above the tripple clamp, thusly pushing the fork through the clamp, caused the steering to turn in too quick. It did on my old twin ???

I don't suppose you can tell me the axle/bearing sizes on your front wheel. so I can sort my front wheel issues.

Cheers
Steve

While the forks are apart, if you aren't fitting cartridge emulators, you might want to think about mods to increase the compression damping. They do need a bit more to control attitude under brakes. I played around with the preload spacers as well and in conjunction with the flat rate springs from one of the FZR sets of forks, I ended up with only 5mm or so of preload when the sag was pretty well right. I used Motorex 20w at Robert Taylor's suggestion and initially at the standard setting of 112mm airgap (no springs, forks fully compressed). I later added another 30ml of oil but I reckon it might have been a little bit too much. The oil was added to control dive under brakes. I also adjusted the emulators at the same time. In standard trim it dove under brakes and the rear wasn't too hard to lift. Now it is pretty good and seems to only lift a bit even with a big handful of brake.

While you have it apart as well one thing I did which seems to have worked well (for me) was moving the clipons from under the triple clamp to on top. This raised the handlebars making it a bit more cumfy for this old guy plus it dropped the front and steepened the steering. Once I sort out the new chamber I think I will have ground clearance problems still so that 20mm might have to be found somewhere else but you have to be pretty well cranked over to touch down.

Great chassis though, you will love it.

[speedpro]

The manual says to fill with oil till there is 112mm between the oil and the top of the fork with the spring removed and the fork fully compressed. It doesn't give a volume and I haven't checked it.

The bike turns nicely for me, not too quick. I rode #23 and it drops into a turn and you have to catch it on the throttle or your knee. #6 isn't like that at all. It's real easy to go back if the steering isn't to your liking.

I don't know the bearing sizes but if you drag one of your bearings out and measure it I can make a few calls for you. It sounds a bit pricey where you are.

[SHELRACING]

Thanks Speedpro I have sorted the bearings. One of the locals is going to machine the wheel so I can use a standard 42mm od x 15mm id bearing.

I recall having a discussion with you trackside about modifying the standard cartridges at the bottom of the fork legs. You suggested filling two of the four holes in each cartridge. I pressume it was to control oil flow. Can you run it by me again. Here's a pic, which two holes to fill ?? does it matter.

Steve

The manual says to fill with oil till there is 112mm between the oil and the top of the fork with the spring removed and the fork fully compressed. It doesn't give a volume and I haven't checked it.

The bike turns nicely for me, not too quick. I rode #23 and it drops into a turn and you have to catch it on the throttle or your knee. #6 isn't like that at all. It's real easy to go back if the steering isn't to your liking.

I don't know the bearing sizes but if you drag one of your bearings out and measure it I can make a few calls for you. It sounds a bit pricey where you are.

[speedpro]

The four holes to the right in the picture are the primary factor in the compression damping. If I was going to make any changes to those four holes I would fill in the the left most two of those four. The closer the compression damping holes are to the bottom of the tube the better as it reduces the amount of uncontrolled rebound stroke. It'll be a matter of suck_and_see as far as how much you block up. Keep in mind that it could get pretty harsh on BIG bumps once you start getting the damping right for your average bumps.

[SHELRACING]

Cheers that makes sense (even to me). As you say it looks as if it will be a trial and error experiment. Now that I have the forks stripped I might have a bit of a play over the weekend.

The four holes to the right in the picture are the primary factor in the compression damping. If I was going to make any changes to those four holes I would fill in the the left most two of those four. The closer the compression damping holes are to the bottom of the tube the better as it reduces the amount of uncontrolled rebound stroke. It'll be a matter of suck_and_see as far as how much you block up. Keep in mind that it could get pretty harsh on BIG bumps once you start getting the damping right for your average bumps.

[gav]

Wonder how the exhaust will perform, most people I've seen are going for quite a short pipe with the muffler pretty much under the engine.