DRZ SM mods'n stuff...

**AlBundy** · 6th September 2008, 11:40

From Carver to Morcs, guys that have added bits to their bikes. Lets hear what's been done to wake them up. If you please gentlemen...

Mine, still pretty much stock.

What I have done is take the throttle twist-grip off and add about 2mm of glue to the pull-throttle cable run, so it effectively makes it a 1/5th throttle now, as opposed to a 1/4, it was before.

It's helped a lot, just being anle to access full throttle for twisty riding...

To add from another thread...

The SM was restricted from the start. A 38mm header, compared to 41mm of the enduro version. A 36mm cv carb, compared to a 39mm pumper. Different cams too and a different igniton. How much the ignition differs, I'm not sure. It has a lower rev-limit, that much is known...

**Morcs** · 7th September 2008, 19:31

Originally Posted by AlBundy

From Carver to Morcs, guys that have added bits to their bikes. Lets hear what's been done to wake them up. If you please gentlemen...

Mine, still pretty much stock.

What I have done is take the throttle twist-grip off and add about 2mm of glue to the pull-throttle cable run, so it effectively makes it a 1/5th throttle now, as opposed to a 1/4, it was before.

It's helped a lot, just being anle to access full throttle for twisty riding...

To add from another thread...

The SM was restricted from the start. A 38mm header, compared to 41mm of the enduro version. A 36mm cv carb, compared to a 39mm pumper. Different cams too and a different igniton. How much the ignition differs, I'm not sure. It has a lower rev-limit, that much is known...

Theres a lot can be done. Ive heard of Dog-RooterZ putting out upto 70hp.

The biggest single improvement is the full exhaust system - most people will suggest it cant improve much, but it does. I got the yoshi put on at full service (with no fuelling mods at that stage) and the torque band was so much stronger.

Other than that, wind the rear shock up to reasonably hard (they sag low otherwise), K&N filter, stage 2 dynojet kit, and 3x3 mod - leave the gearing standard and all up makes for a very competent machine for twisties, town work, wheelies, stoppies etc.. - all except open road cruising.

I hope this helps

**Swoop** · 7th September 2008, 20:18

Originally Posted by Morcs

wind the rear shock up to reasonably hard (they sag low otherwise)

Perhaps a smaller intake of pies, might help?

**AlBundy** · 7th September 2008, 21:33

Originally Posted by Morcs

The biggest single improvement is the full exhaust system - most people will suggest it cant improve much, but it does. I got the yoshi put on at full service (with no fuelling mods at that stage) and the torque band was so much stronger. Other than that, K&N filter, stage 2 dynojet kit, and 3x3 mod - leave the gearing standard and all up makes for a very competent machine for twisties, town work, wheelies, stoppies etc.. - all except open road cruising.

Awesome, thanks. I've possibly got a line on an e model header, which may help in the persuit of CHEAP power, lol...

As for the Dynojet kit, I may just go for the FCR down the line and see how that goes. In the mean time, I've still got the snorkel in the airbox, so remove that and play with a main jet. We'll see.

Originally Posted by Swoop

Perhaps a smaller intake of pies, might help?

Or an increase of intake.... Only about 65kg's here, lol...

**kezzafish** · 9th September 2008, 17:54

What's a 3x3 mod and what's FCR? and how does the twist grip thing work? kinda can't tell from the pic. Is that glue in the throttle tube where there would normally be a slot?

**AlBundy** · 9th September 2008, 21:19

Originally Posted by kezzafish

What's a 3x3 mod and what's FCR? and how does the twist grip thing work? kinda can't tell from the pic. Is that glue in the throttle tube where there would normally be a slot?

3X3 is a 3" by 3" hole on the top of the airbox. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VtKWbs0N5lo

FCR is the 39mm Keihin carbs the enduro model comes with and the mod that a lot of guys go for.

As for the pic, yip. Glue in the slot where the cable runs. The theory being, the diameter of the tube in that area is bigger, therefor, for the same amount of twistgrip rotation, it'll pull more cable.
Take for instance, a broom stick, tie a string with a plumb-bob to it and turn it 90 degrees. How much does the bob at the end of the string lift.
Now, do the same with a paint can. See the difference.

This is the basic principle behind the glue... Just means one can get to full throttle with less of a turn.

**Brainfade** · 11th September 2008, 14:18

Ive done the 3 x 3 mod, Ive put an FCR39 Carb offa a KTM on it, that was a major hassle but well worth it,finally an SS Yoshimura RS2 pipe, these mods REALLY make it Awesome, My poor 06 R6 dosnt see much action anymore unless Im goin for a loong ride, I love My DRZ,
btw, U can Use an R6 throttle if U want less throttle turn, check out the thread at ThumperTalk... http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=399179
Happy sliding, Brainfade

**Silage** · 18th September 2008, 19:25

Originally Posted by AlBundy

The SM was restricted from the start. A 38mm header, compared to 41mm of the enduro version. A 36mm cv carb, compared to a 39mm pumper. Different cams too and a different igniton. How much the ignition differs, I'm not sure. It has a lower rev-limit, that much is known...

I bought the last SM that Sportzone Chch had yesterday. I would like to add a tacho. What are the options? Anyone know what revs they run and at what revs the rev limiter cuts in (not that I will find it for a while yet!!)

Google got me to "Tiny Tach" which looks like it would do the job and is only around $US36. Just wrap a wire around the spark lead - induction.

**AlBundy** · 18th September 2008, 20:33

Originally Posted by Silage

I bought the last SM that Sportzone Chch had yesterday. I would like to add a tacho. What are the options? Anyone know what revs they run and at what revs the rev limiter cuts in (not that I will find it for a while yet!!)

Google got me to "Tiny Tach" which looks like it would do the job and is only around $US36. Just wrap a wire around the spark lead - induction.

If you ask Nordieboy, he's pretty good with gizmos... Not sure if the Veypour does a tacho.
As for the rev limiter, I believe they cut in at 9500 on the SM...

**Motardman** · 19th September 2008, 11:31

The Vapor integrates tacho, speed, temp, shift lights, avg speed etc, and has a backlight. Its FECKING awesome.....highly receommended, I currently use one on my KTM.

**Patar** · 20th September 2008, 16:30

Originally Posted by Silage

I bought the last SM that Sportzone Chch had yesterday. I would like to add a tacho. What are the options? Anyone know what revs they run and at what revs the rev limiter cuts in (not that I will find it for a while yet!!)

Google got me to "Tiny Tach" which looks like it would do the job and is only around $US36. Just wrap a wire around the spark lead - induction.

I think I've heard of other tacho's that work on induction, but iirc they don't refresh too quickly so you'll see the rpm kinda 'lagging' behind.

**Motoxparts** · 15th November 2008, 17:11

Hey try a Two Brothers M7 on the DRZ400 SM that will give it some real go.

www.motoxparts.co.nz

**Silage** · 18th November 2008, 13:55

Well these are hardly performance enhancements but someone might be interested.

Screen is from Eagle Screens at http://www.eaglescreens.com.au/. Cost about $nz220 delivered. Reasonably easy to fit. This is the medium size (450mm) model S72.

Tiny-Tac reads rpm when running and hours of operation when off. This one has a reset button but is probably better without in order to keep the running time. Tacho a bit slow to change display but all I wanted. Easy to fit - just one wire around spark lead and other earthed. Cost about $nz70 out of the main office in the USA. Would have been about $nz170 if through their aussie agents. Web page at http://www.tinytach.com/tinytach/index.php.

Rack - home made.

Still pondering the best fix for the seat!!

**kezzafish** · 18th November 2008, 15:26

nice, all looks super functional and at very good prices, well done

**Motoxparts** · 18th November 2008, 21:03

Hour/Rpm meter only $59.95 NZ www.motoxparts.co.nz

Sendec Hour/Rpm meter reads rpm when running and hours of operation when off. riders now have the answer to their greatest problem with modern high-performance engines: "recording the runtime" for engine oil changes, piston and ring replacement engine tuning etc. The unit is completely sealed to protect against water, mud and vibration. The unit is powered by an internal lithium battery. No external power connection is required. The operation of the Tach/Hour meter is triggered by an external wire lead, wrapped around the outside of spark plug wire of the engine. Since the unit is triggered by the spark of the engine, the hours and the RPM display actual operation.
Hour and Rpm

Very easy to fit one wire
Great for setting idle and tuning
8 year battery life
Unlimited hours
Works on all 2 stroke and 4 strokes
1 year warranty
Waterproof
Made in USA. Size 50mm long x 35mm high x 16mm wide.