Wow these NC30's really run hot...

[mark247]

umm yeah lol it's exactly that!! That's not a bad dent then? But there are 2 of those ''dents'' right? One on top of that bend and one on the outside? it's just my exhaust has some scratches around that a... so i thought it may be damage... but i guess i might be wrong.

Not entirely sure, i think there is only one on mine on the inside of the bend. I'd check but im too lazy at the moment haha.

[racefactory]

please get back to me if you check!

[mark247]

please get back to me if you check!

remind me tomorrow

[vagrant]

Hiya Trademe,
These guys in the UK have a really strong NC30 section, loads of good gen here, and they also have better access than we do to second hand parts. They don't mind shipping them out to help out the antipodean cousins!
Also some good links to parts catalogs etc.

www.400greybike.cc

You can splice a switch into the wires running to and from your thermo switch, they should be black and green according to my wiring diagram. This will allow you to bypass the thermoswitch and turn the fan on when you want it, but will also allow it (the thermoswitch) to turn the fan on when it gets hot (it's handy and safer if you don't notice or forget)
You also maintain the fuse protection for the circuit. And it will turn off when you turn the ignition off as well.

You could also wrap your front header pipes in thermal insulation tape. This will help keep the radiator cooler when stationary.

[racefactory]

Damn thanks a lot man! I was thinking of buying some thermal wrap. Mod sounds good!

Awesome cheers.

[motorbyclist]

• i had my nc30 go well past the "90" mark while i was thrashing it without problems
• had it go right off the clock in heavy traffic a few times. just gave up, pulled up onto footpath and turned her off for 5 minutes facing into the wind
• just wait til you're sitting at lights on a summers day with hot air pouring out from the fairings all over your legs. even the chassis will be hot to the touch!
• my thermal switch failed, and so did the replacement; fortunately it was piss easy to bypass it with a manual one
• if it's a concern, pull the radiator off and fix all the fins up with some tweezers to get the airflow back into it. i've done it before on both top and bottom NC30 radiators and a few dirtbikes - it takes fucking ages but is strangely satisfying, like popping bubblewrap.....
• that dent is probably from a footpeg when it got dropped? the gutted muffler is more of a concern
• that gutted muffler has probably not been followed up with a re-tune (otherwise they'd not have lost so much bottom end with no gain in the top end), so expect the bike to be running lean, which will make it run hotter than it should - learn carbies or take it to a mechanic who knows these bikes. i know Sam at red baron used to race these (now a NC35) and he did a reasonable job of my one the one time it saw a mechanic. expect it to cost $200ish at a guess - these bikes are cunts to work on, but having a mechanic familiar with the nc30 will make the job faster and less likely to be fucked up
  
• and oil coolers were stock with the european models, along with no power/speed restrictors.... the french ones also had larger headlights....

[racefactory]

• i had my nc30 go well past the "90" mark while i was thrashing it without problems
• had it go right off the clock in heavy traffic a few times. just gave up, pulled up onto footpath and turned her off for 5 minutes facing into the wind
• just wait til you're sitting at lights on a summers day with hot air pouring out from the fairings all over your legs. even the chassis will be hot to the touch!
• my thermal switch failed, and so did the replacement; fortunately it was piss easy to bypass it with a manual one
• if it's a concern, pull the radiator off and fix all the fins up with some tweezers to get the airflow back into it. i've done it before on both top and bottom NC30 radiators and a few dirtbikes - it takes fucking ages but is strangely satisfying, like popping bubblewrap.....
• that dent is probably from a footpeg when it got dropped? the gutted muffler is more of a concern
• that gutted muffler has probably not been followed up with a re-tune (otherwise they'd not have lost so much bottom end with no gain in the top end), so expect the bike to be running lean, which will make it run hotter than it should - learn carbies or take it to a mechanic who knows these bikes. i know Sam at red baron used to race these (now a NC35) and he did a reasonable job of my one the one time it saw a mechanic. expect it to cost $200ish at a guess - these bikes are cunts to work on, but having a mechanic familiar with the nc30 will make the job faster and less likely to be fucked up
  
• and oil coolers were stock with the european models, along with no power/speed restrictors.... the french ones also had larger headlights....

thanks again andrew- as usual some good fucking info from you man. Because it's gutted, why does it make it leaner? I would have thought only altering flow before combustion would have changed mixture?

What exactly did you have done on your one ? jetting only?

Sounds like a good bet to take my viffer there. How much for a valve clearance job do you reckon?

[imdying]

if it's a concern, pull the radiator off and fix all the fins up with some tweezers to get the airflow back into it. i've done it before on both top and bottom NC30 radiators and a few dirtbikes - it takes fucking ages but is strangely satisfying, like popping bubblewrap.....

HVAC engineers generally carry a 'comb' designed for this purpose... makes it a 2 minute job

[vifferman]

Damn thanks a lot man! I was thinking of buying some thermal wrap. Mod sounds good!

Just be aware that thermal wrap can cause (non stainless steel) header pipes to rust out quickly if the wrap gets wet from riding short trips in crappy weather a lot, and moisture is trapped against the metal.
Yes, a carb synch could be a good idea, but the uneven idling could be from a number of things, including air leaks in the intakes or in the exhaust plumbing, crap in the carbs, worn needles/sliders/seats, etc etc etc. If you are having the bike tuned, you need to be sure that everything is ship-shape mechanically, otherwise you'll just be chasing your tail.

[motorbyclist]

What exactly did you have done on your one ? jetting only?

jets were already right, the problem was number 3 cylinder wasn't getting fuel above idle revs.

i didn't have time nor patience to find the fault so gave it to sam and told him to fix/tune it and look at teh forks (which were confirmed to be bent) - turns out number three carby vacuum line had come loose. he put that back on and replaced the air filter with a foam one, tuned it and got the forks straightened... only thing i didn't like is he put the foam in dry and didn't use grease or anything to seal around the edges/corners, so crap DID get past the filter in the two weeks before i had a look at what he had done

Sounds like a good bet to take my viffer there. How much for a valve clearance job do you reckon?

well it's red baron, and the nc30 has 16 valves attached to four camshafts on two different heads, one of which is hiding up behind a radiator etc etc

nc30 was designed to be an endurance racer, which means a bomb proof engine that is (relatively) piss easy to do a complete overhaul, but frustratingly difficult to do minor jobs on

J
Yes, a carb synch could be a good idea, but the uneven idling could be from a number of things,

told jafa to take his nc30 back to the dealer (cyclespot) and sure enough all teh idle screws were in random positions (or so the mechanic says)

idles fine now that it's had the work that should've been done to it before sale done