Threaded bolts (argh!!)

[NC]

Well here's my shoddy attempt at making this more clear.

http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/antallic/bugger.jpg

You said nut


Heehee

[Motu]

It was in reference to the Japanese having a system different than what everyone else is doing.

After WWII when it was found the different thread systems of the Poms and Yanks caused a few headaches two new threads were produced - unified national course (UNC) and unified national fine (UNF),which were actualy the American threads,just altered slightly.The British Wiitworth thread was really a far better thread form,but any way everyone was supposed to use the unified threads,often called SAE.But a lot of Britsh manufacterers carried on with the old threads - in low production runs it was uneconomic to change.Leyland,Rover and the British motorcycle industry were the ones I remember who didn't change.

The Yanks have taken on SI,but won't put it into practice,the Japanese pretend they have,but just merrily carry on in their own way.

[FROSTY:Me]

Ant I agree with Moko and Motu -it looks to me that what youve got is m6 metric fine. What I would do is have a look at how that filter bock mounts to the bike and take it off. Once ya have is sussed then ya can work on it
call me if ya need a hand

[Antallica]

Gargh, I'm almost ready to hiff this at the shop. Got enough shit going on without this bastard to deal with.

The stupidest place to put it imho.
http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/antallic/oil.jpg


So anyway, all I have to do is remove the stud from the engine with some grips and suchlike, and take it to a bike shop?

[FROSTY:Me]

Bugger mate -shes a tadd tight. Do the penatrating oil bit--at least 4 times --then try to get it out

[Antallica]

Went to work and found it is indeed a standard M6 thread, and as luck has it we have a 1m length of M6 threaded rod. So all I need to do tomorrow is grab some CRC, vice grips and unscrew that baby out and replace with some rod cut to correct length.

I might shove some spring washers on each rod for extra durability. The snapped piece of rod looks rather strange in the middle.

Cheers for the help and support fellas.

[Skunk]

Just be careful taking the old one out. Don't force it.
As XJ/FROSTY said: "...she's a tad tight. Do the penetrating oil bit - at least four times - then try to get it out."
You don't want to strip the casing.

Oooh, serious for me.

[pete376403]

It was in reference to the Japanese having a system different than what everyone else is doing.

After WWII when it was found the different thread systems of the Poms and Yanks caused a few headaches two new threads were produced - unified national course (UNC) and unified national fine (UNF),which were actualy the American threads,just altered slightly.The British Wiitworth thread was really a far better thread form,but any way everyone was supposed to use the unified threads,often called SAE.But a lot of Britsh manufacterers carried on with the old threads - in low production runs it was uneconomic to change.Leyland,Rover and the British motorcycle industry were the ones I remember who didn't change.

The Yanks have taken on SI,but won't put it into practice,the Japanese pretend they have,but just merrily carry on in their own way.

SAE - Society of Automotive Engineers.
Whitworth and UNC are very nearly the same thing (55 degree included angle versus 60 degree). UNC (and UNF) have a more logical relationship between bolt diameter and hex head size - mostly 1 1/2 times the bolt diameter across the flats (hence the spanner designation 1/2" AF, etc)

But who could forget that masterpiece of British engineering, Cycle Thread, 26 tpi regardless of diameter. Old Brit bikes were held together with these. I found they were virtually unobtainable outside of a mtorcycle shop, so if something fell off on the road the nearest equivalent BSF would be jammed on. The resulting thread damage usually meant it wouldn't come off again

[Motu]

Thanks for that Pete,I didn't want to go around confusing the issue even more cause stuf like Whitworth is long gone apart from those poor buggers who want to play with British bikes.Here's a good site that makes it pretty simple - it's pretty easy to get confused picking up nuts and bolts and screwing them together and nothing boody fits!

Bolt Science

Actualy I got a red face here - the 6mm thread is almost the only one the Japs use that corresponds to ISO,I just didn't think only one would be used to hold a filter one...of course being Japanese there are 3.

[Milky]

The snapped piece of rod looks rather strange in the middle.

That sounds to me that the nut was put on far too tight, far too many times.

I assume that cover pushes the oilfilter in, and seals with a o-ring? I wouldnt do much more than ~5Nm on the nut, but if you dont have a torque wrench, just do it up evenly until it is snug, then a little more. Check when you run it to see if there is any oil leaking and if necessary nip it up a bit more. As with the nuts for the headers, they do not need to be greatly tight.

[FROSTY:Me]

don't swear like that around me guys --I used to sell nuts n bolts n screws for a living.
Unc ,unf,sae,metric,metric fine, reverse metric (yea reverse direction threads)
My nightmare was some bugger like Motu turning up with a bolt he'd turned up on a lathe 20 years ago wanting a replacement.