Recently converted from flogged rear (read: 85,000k's) to ohlins, very noticable difference... alot less squat and it actually absorbs bumps, not pogo sticking.
However, its made me want to perfect the front to match
You really need to check the spring unit,the problem with it is the minimal overlap at the shaft.
That being the reason for the excess deflection even when new,once it starts to bind even the Ohlins will be affected (imo)
You also need (if you havn't already) to check the rocker for the spring unit,i also think the alignment is wrong so the rocker can wear badly at the upper outboard point (The shim will wear into the alloy until flush)
All linkage bearings need to be checked as soon as 20000kms given the minimal lubrication from the factory.
The swingarm bearings can also be increased to 25mm rollers.
I went to Timkens with new stock sleeves..fwiw
THE TLR fork is better but as i found as far back as 2003,the TLS forks rebound needles among other things need replacing,the tolerance at the needles is excessive.
You are fairly stuck with the stock fork even with a 25mm cartridge without mods.
I would even go as far as saying dump them in favour of GSXR750 Showa's with 50mm/55mm OD legs which fit the TL triple clamps.
I have every intention of dumping the Kayaba's (2001 and 2006 GSXR1000) i have on both TL's and going for a Showa fork with either Ohlins or Traxxion internals,that is for the future when i get back to NZ.
Drastic but i ended up making a custom spring unit,the shaft was supposed to go to the US for DLC but i never got around to it.
then inverting the Ohlins to get some heat away from it.
It is an old bike now but still worth spending some cash on. (the reality is something like a modern GSXR750 would be an eye opener compared to the TL,depends what floats your boat i guess.)
There are a ton of things to get the TL up to speed.
I forgot about this pic,yes it is a TL1000S (the black one)
At that stage the brackets were only prototypes,the R/H one in the end was machined from 30mm billet.
Got to love the TL.
High flow base compression pistons with a very specific preloading stack that is not available off the net as a generic spec. Revalving of the stock rebound pistons and a subtle but effective mod to the mid valve checkplate system. Linear wind springs with spacers. New seals and Ohlins wide temperature range oil. Bushings extra if flogged out. The ride height control and pitch control under brakes is much much improved, but the standout improvement is much much better compliance over nasty square edge bumps that our roads serve up regularly. That gives you much more freedom to choose the corner lines you actually want with much less preoccupation to avoid those otherwise chassis de-stabilising bumps. In fact you find yourself aiming for the bumps because they become a joy to ride over!
For the record we have done in excess of 100 sets of forks with this specific mod, including many Ohlins road and track forks. The improvement that is attained is very real.
All good stuff. Given that these bikes are getting adavnced in years and distance all of the above re bushings etc makes perfect sense. And yes that oem side spring support damper is a horrible piece and fails as early as 40,000 ks for the reasons stated. I had at one stage considered making these side units but the market is now so small that its not commercially viable. Ohlins sales for dampers are now a replacement for the aging stock units. Ohlins stock of these is running out and they will not reproduce once exhausted, simply because of diminishing worldwide demand. Currently I have one in stock for TL1000S and likely wont replace it when sold.
Apples for apples or servicable bushings for servicable bushings that standard rotary damper is a nasty, horrible high friction damper that has conspired to accelerate a high frequency of tyre sales over the last decade for TL1000S / R. Customers started buying Ohlins shocks for these bikes very early into their life and long before older age / higher mileage wear issues started rearing their head. Many of these customers reported that after fitting an Ohjlins damper rear tyre life almost doubled.
That spring guide and damper mounting plates set up is a work of art, TLDV8!
I reckon if you could produce enough of them to make it viable for you, you would have a ready market for them. That solution of yours goes a long way to remedying the Achilles heal of the TLS.
I'm bloody impressed
will the bike be confidence inspiring? will it be $1600 bucksish of woo hoo? or boo hoo?.
if i get the right advice/idea i'll do it.
Having just purchased a 2000 VTR1000 being my first bike in 25yrs (my last bike was a Honda 350/4), I am intriqued by your comment re the VTR having a terrible rear suspension. Very hard for me to judge for 1) major upgrade to my 350/4 and 2) only just getting used to the thrill of riding again and no where near bike limit.
Therefore, can you please give me an insight into the VTR rear end and options that are a must and ones nice to do.
Cheers
Dale
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Bookmarks