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Thread: Help me choose a heat pump

  1. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drew View Post
    The components are fucken expensive to buy, for what they are. What we pay for 'Smartvent' systems is fucken unbelievable.
    Which tells me there's a barrier to entry into that market somewhere. Does the kit have to meet standards compliance?

    I mean seriously, it cost less than $100 to make the lot. With a bit of effort I could buy everything except the wee blueteeth controller for less than $100.

    Reminds me of the bullshit around the first insulation subsidy a few years ago. Poor people got a $1000 subsidy for installing roof insulation, but only if done by an approved installer. Overnight, and I mean literally overnight the price of a house lot of pink bats went up by $1000. The "approved installers" basically pocketed the subsidy.
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  2. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ocean1 View Post
    Which tells me there's a barrier to entry into that market somewhere. Does the kit have to meet standards compliance?

    I mean seriously, it cost less than $100 to make the lot. With a bit of effort I could buy everything except the wee blueteeth controller for less than $100.

    Reminds me of the bullshit around the first insulation subsidy a few years ago. Poor people got a $1000 subsidy for installing roof insulation, but only if done by an approved installer. Overnight, and I mean literally overnight the price of a house lot of pink bats went up by $1000. The "approved installers" basically pocketed the subsidy.
    Concur. Damned expensive.

    We bought random insulation, floor and loft, off trade me. Different colours and sizes, all surplus to requirements, for bugger all. Buying it off the shelf would have been eye watering. I'm hoping to do the same with a dehumidifier / venting installation. I can't dodge the machinery but the rest of it is cheap.
    Manopausal.

  3. #108
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    heat pumps dehumidify as they heat or cool.There is also a dehumidify setting which just draws air through the indoor unit and cooling it a bit to get the moisture to drop out.Thats why the indoor units need a drain.to get rid of said condensate

  4. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMWST? View Post
    heat pumps dehumidify as they heat or cool.There is also a dehumidify setting which just draws air through the indoor unit and cooling it a bit to get the moisture to drop out.Thats why the indoor units need a drain.to get rid of said condensate
    That's what I need. But it has to do a whole house of small rooms, small doors, drafty windows and low ceilings which is why I'm thinking of a below house unit with venting. At times water drips from the ceiling as air condenses on the cold, rusty nails holding the place together. It would be easier to install than the loft and a heat pump on the wall could not cut it. Not enough circulation in the house. We have an air transfer system in the loft already which only manages to achieve a small fraction of fuck all when it comes to warmth and dryness.
    Manopausal.

  5. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ocean1 View Post
    Which tells me there's a barrier to entry into that market somewhere. Does the kit have to meet standards compliance?

    I mean seriously, it cost less than $100 to make the lot. With a bit of effort I could buy everything except the wee blueteeth controller for less than $100.

    Reminds me of the bullshit around the first insulation subsidy a few years ago. Poor people got a $1000 subsidy for installing roof insulation, but only if done by an approved installer. Overnight, and I mean literally overnight the price of a house lot of pink bats went up by $1000. The "approved installers" basically pocketed the subsidy.
    The Gan motor and controller can't be bought for what you're talking about. A fan and a basic manual controller could perhaps, but ya might be surprised.

    Quote Originally Posted by BMWST? View Post
    heat pumps dehumidify as they heat or cool.There is also a dehumidify setting which just draws air through the indoor unit and cooling it a bit to get the moisture to drop out.Thats why the indoor units need a drain.to get rid of said condensate
    The only moisture removal during heating is due to the higher air pressure of heated air. But less is absorbed into the house when its warm.

    Set on cooling is when they remove the most moisture from the air. This can be tested by putting a load of wet washing on an airing rack and putting the heat pump on cooling and then again on heating. It's quite impressive. Same principle as putting a wet phone or watch in the fridge rather than the hot water cupboard. It evaporates quicker with the heat, but doesn't go anywhere.

  6. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drew View Post
    The Gan motor and controller can't be bought for what you're talking about. A fan and a basic manual controller could perhaps, but ya might be surprised.
    Don't know what motor controller they use, but it looks like a 200w full blown VFD can be had for $100.

    If' I've underestimated the cost of materials involved by an order of magnitude they're still overcharging for a typical install by 4:1.

    The sooner this shit comes plug & play at threepence ha'penny a dozen the better...
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  7. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ocean1 View Post
    Don't know what motor controller they use, but it looks like a 200w full blown VFD can be had for $100.

    If' I've underestimated the cost of materials involved by an order of magnitude they're still overcharging for a typical install by 4:1.

    The sooner this shit comes plug & play at threepence ha'penny a dozen the better...
    They use temp sensors and variable speeds depending on ceiling cavity and room temp.

    Don't get me wrong, importers are making a fortune. Smartvent is near plug and play. Just a power feed to wire up manually. Ivents are a fucken mongrel to wire up. Those are the only two systems I have install experience with.

    HRV seem to be the most overpriced, and they peddle them with a fucken useless 1100 watt heater in them that does NOTHING. Might go have a look in the crawl space here and see how they are wired. Prolly due for the filter to meet the compressor anyway.

  8. #113
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    Correct me if I'm wrong but one of these kits takes warm air from you ceiling space, blows if via 150 fan thru duct to rooms with a vent that

    you can adjust flow. The controller has a thermostat that cuts it off when it gets below a setpoint of say 21 -23 degrees.

    I quite like the Mitsubishi heat exchange that had an actual heat exchange that took the warm air exiting and warmed up the cool air entering.

    Currently I just open a window.

    Most rooms have N+ 1 of these.
    DeMyer's Laws - an argument that consists primarily of rambling quotes isn't worth bothering with.

  9. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drew View Post
    They use temp sensors and variable speeds depending on ceiling cavity and room temp.

    Don't get me wrong, importers are making a fortune. Smartvent is near plug and play. Just a power feed to wire up manually. Ivents are a fucken mongrel to wire up. Those are the only two systems I have install experience with.

    HRV seem to be the most overpriced, and they peddle them with a fucken useless 1100 watt heater in them that does NOTHING. Might go have a look in the crawl space here and see how they are wired. Prolly due for the filter to meet the compressor anyway.
    Yeah I know, but none of that requires cutting edge tech, it's all off the shelf. The only thing that's custom built for that lot is the controller/keypad, and there's plenty of locals that could develop those for fuck all.

    The old dear up the road got ripped off to the tune of $6k. I didn't disillusion her with her shiny new system, but I did call the installer and had a brief chat.
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  10. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by Voltaire View Post
    Correct me if I'm wrong but one of these kits takes warm air from you ceiling space, blows if via 150 fan thru duct to rooms with a vent that

    you can adjust flow. The controller has a thermostat that cuts it off when it gets below a setpoint of say 21 -23 degrees.

    I quite like the Mitsubishi heat exchange that had an actual heat exchange that took the warm air exiting and warmed up the cool air entering.

    Currently I just open a window.

    Most rooms have N+ 1 of these.
    Pretty close.

    The air in ceiling is not always warmer. But it doesn't have as much moisture in it as the air in the house. So through raising the pressure with dry air, the moisture is pushed out of the house.

  11. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by Voltaire View Post
    Correct me if I'm wrong but one of these kits takes warm air from you ceiling space, blows if via 150 fan thru duct to rooms with a vent that

    you can adjust flow. The controller has a thermostat that cuts it off when it gets below a setpoint of say 21 -23 degrees.

    I quite like the Mitsubishi heat exchange that had an actual heat exchange that took the warm air exiting and warmed up the cool air entering.

    Currently I just open a window.

    Most rooms have N+ 1 of these.
    Yeah pretty much. In an ideal world they read temp in several rooms and the roof space and fuck with air flow to different parts of the house separately.

    The one I mentioned didn't do that. In fact I'm fucked if I know how they managed to get it to do what it did, which made no sense whatsoever.
    Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon

  12. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ocean1 View Post
    Yeah pretty much. In an ideal world they read temp in several rooms and the roof space and fuck with air flow to different parts of the house separately.

    The one I mentioned didn't do that. In fact I'm fucked if I know how they managed to get it to do what it did, which made no sense whatsoever.
    I've never see one that controlled flow separately to different rooms. Electronic dampers would do it, but there would be no point. The only temp it really needs is that of the crawl space. I set them to come on at 9°, step up at 15 and 20. Then step back down and off at 25,28, and 32

  13. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drew View Post
    I've never see one that controlled flow separately to different rooms. Electronic dampers would do it, but there would be no point. The only temp it really needs is that of the crawl space. I set them to come on at 9°, step up at 15 and 20. Then step back down and off at 25,28, and 32
    Neither have I, but it's an obvious improvement. There's a lot to be said for a single vent mounted fan with it's own thermocouple unit in each room, with a single processor managing the lot.
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  14. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by george formby View Post
    That's what I need. But it has to do a whole house of small rooms, small doors, drafty windows and low ceilings which is why I'm thinking of a below house unit with venting. At times water drips from the ceiling as air condenses on the cold, rusty nails holding the place together. It would be easier to install than the loft and a heat pump on the wall could not cut it. Not enough circulation in the house. We have an air transfer system in the loft already which only manages to achieve a small fraction of fuck all when it comes to warmth and dryness.
    we lived in a big old damp house, the owner had put hrv in, there were two units running different parts of the house and drawing air from the ceiling space. it was a complete and utter waste of money and i ended up converting it to a double transfer system when we put the new fire in and that did a whole lot more good than the HRV, but the thing people tend to forget is that they need to leave doors open to allow the air to move around the house and that doesn't matter whether they are using a home ventilation system or heat transfer system or just leaving the windows open

  15. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by russd7 View Post
    we lived in a big old damp house, the owner had put hrv in, there were two units running different parts of the house and drawing air from the ceiling space. it was a complete and utter waste of money and i ended up converting it to a double transfer system when we put the new fire in and that did a whole lot more good than the HRV, but the thing people tend to forget is that they need to leave doors open to allow the air to move around the house and that doesn't matter whether they are using a home ventilation system or heat transfer system or just leaving the windows open
    Yeah, we leave all the doors open in a vane attempt to heat the house. I suppose the current fire and fans rig does make a difference but it's certainly not enough to allow sitting around in a t shirt.
    Manopausal.

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