Chain life

**MSTRS:Me** · 17th October 2008, 15:00

I know that this depends on many factors - type of seal, grade, type of use, lubrication, adjustment etc.
What I am interested in is what sort of kms do you get out of yours, assuming you do all the right things?
I have no idea what my chain is (HD, O-ring etc) as I think it is the original. It does have gold link plates. I keep it well lubed (I use aerosol chain wax) and adjusted properly. It has just developed the dreaded 'tight spot' at 45,000 kms.

**vifferman** · 17th October 2008, 15:10

I'm happy if I get a couple of years out of a chain. Usually last about two sets of tyres.
However, that's because most of my riding lately has been communtering, which buggers everything on the bike pretty quickly - the tyres, chain'n'sprockets, gearbox, paintwork and rider.

**MSTRS:Me** · 17th October 2008, 15:15

If the rider is getting buggered, he must be sitting odd...or will be.

**Blackbird** · 17th October 2008, 15:39

Stock O ring chain on the 'bird. It's now done 55000 km, all with a Scottoiler. I don't even need to adjust the chain tension between tyre changes. There is a bit of fling from the Scottoiler but not excessively so. A bit of oil spotting on the rear rim and left muffler is more than offset by the excellent chain life. Can't tell you what that final life will be, but certainly not anytime soon.

**NighthawkNZ:Me** · 17th October 2008, 15:52

Originally Posted by MSTRS

I know that this depends on many factors - type of seal, grade, type of use, lubrication, adjustment etc.
What I am interested in is what sort of kms do you get out of yours, assuming you do all the right things?
I have no idea what my chain is (HD, O-ring etc) as I think it is the original. It does have gold link plates. I keep it well lubed (I use aerosol chain wax) and adjusted properly. It has just developed the dreaded 'tight spot' at 45,000 kms.

So far I have had 20,000 out of mine, and it still looks new and has hardly been adjusted... but I have a scott oiler...

**Bonez** · 17th October 2008, 16:06

Time for for a chain and sprocket change MTRS.

Just replaced the GBs chain yesterday. Too tight to do the sprockets as well(but will do both including fit and x'ring chain at around 100,000kms). Bike feels a lot less snatchy and is smoother. 90 weight oil gear oil and get 25-30,000kms out of a chain(this includes the odd gravel sojourn)- two chains per sprocket set HD standard type(non- o\x'ring). Same with the 550F and Integra. Adjustment is probably more freaquent than using a scotoiler but after a few decades you get into a routine ah

.

**MSTRS:Me** · 17th October 2008, 16:21

Originally Posted by Bonez

Time for for a chain and sprocket change MTRS.

I always do both together. These ones will be ok for another 2000-3000kms and while the wheel is off, I'll do the tyre at the same time.

**Bonez** · 17th October 2008, 16:26

Originally Posted by MSTRS

I always do both together. These ones will be ok for another 2000-3000kms and while the wheel is off, I'll do the tyre at the same time.

Sensible move.

**erik** · 17th October 2008, 17:52

the chain on my bandit has done just over 40,000km, it's a RK 525 chain, non-o-ring (HD, I guess?). I keep it well lubed with Fuchs/Silkolene chain lube, I don't trust the dry looking chain lubes. I measured it a little while ago and it's getting close to the wear limit, so will probably have to replace it within 5-10,000km I guess.

**James Deuce** · 17th October 2008, 18:02

28,000 and 2.75 years out of mine. Mostly communtering.

**johan** · 17th October 2008, 18:45

I haven't seen any advice in the thread yet on 'how' to check if the chain is due replacement. How do you tell after 20000k it's still good to go?

This is the advice I go with. Maybe it different on other bikes:

"A chain should be replaced when it has stretched excessively. Each link in a new 520 or 525 pitch chain measures 15.875mm (5/8-inch) so 16 links will measure 254mm. When a 16 link section of an o-ring chain has stretched to 257mm (under a 20Kg/44lbs load) it needs to be replaced before it fails. When a Ducati chain snaps, it will often wedge between the drive output sprocket and the engine case, destroying the case and hopefully not locking the rear wheel in the process.

Chain stretch across 16 links can be checked with calipers by first placing the transmission in gear and then rotating the back wheel so as to tension the upper strand of the chain."

**MSTRS:Me** · 19th October 2008, 09:53

The trouble with the measuring method is that chains do not wear consistently along their full length. This is what causes the so-called "tight spots", which will mean different wear readings as you rotate the chain.
In the old days when chains all used key links with clips, the method we used to determine wear was to pull the chain out from the rear sprocket. If the links cleared the teeth, the chain was fucked. This was confirmed by removing the chain, then holding one end horizontal, with the linkplates on one side facing the ground, see how much the chain bent. There was a formula for 'point of no return' but I can't remember what that was. Ixion?

**Shaun** · 21st October 2008, 12:12

Originally Posted by MSTRS

I know that this depends on many factors - type of seal, grade, type of use, lubrication, adjustment etc.
What I am interested in is what sort of kms do you get out of yours, assuming you do all the right things?
I have no idea what my chain is (HD, O-ring etc) as I think it is the original. It does have gold link plates. I keep it well lubed (I use aerosol chain wax) and adjusted properly. It has just developed the dreaded 'tight spot' at 45,000 kms.

Regina chain will last me a FULL New Zealand racing season very easy, with miles to spare

Regina chain is brilliant

**klyong82** · 21st October 2008, 13:12

So when you guys say the chain last 40,000km's on its oem chain does that also mean that you never changed the sprockets too that they are also oem out of the factory?