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Thread: Plastic welding. What's the drill?

  1. #46
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    4th November 2007 - 13:39
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    took forever for me to make a video
    so i goggled one instead
    [youtube]I2pQKPxZMd0[/youtube]

    plastic fabricator/welder here if you need a hand ! will work for beer/bourbon/booze

    come ride the southern roads www.southernrider.co.nz

  2. #47
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    7th June 2009 - 17:08
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    hey i have some lugs that hold the main faring and bottom faring together, snap off... how would i go about plastic welding these back to have a strong bond as my bike rattles like f#$k
    cheers
    I asked God for a bike, but I know God doesn't work that way. So I stole a bike and asked for forgiveness.

  3. #48
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    26th December 2006 - 20:57
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    Quote Originally Posted by specter View Post
    hey i have some lugs that hold the main faring and bottom faring together, snap off... how would i go about plastic welding these back to have a strong bond as my bike rattles like f#$k
    cheers

    You could try the stuff from Supercheap pete376403 mentioned above,
    or use super glue and baking Soda for a cheap pretty strong fix.

    Google it ,it does work pretty good...
    Harley Davidson: The most efficient way to convert gasoline into noise without the side effects of horsepower.

    'Fast' Harleys are only fast compared to stock Harleys.

  4. #49
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    7th June 2009 - 17:08
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    Quote Originally Posted by nallac View Post
    You could try the stuff from Supercheap pete376403 mentioned above,
    or use super glue and baking Soda for a cheap pretty strong fix.

    Google it ,it does work pretty good...
    true that
    didnt read most of last page which really helps.....
    I asked God for a bike, but I know God doesn't work that way. So I stole a bike and asked for forgiveness.

  5. #50
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    9th December 2005 - 22:02
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ixion View Post
    These days I seem to be accumulating quite a lot of broken, cracked and generally munted plastic bits . No, I've not broken them myself, I've gotten them like that.

    Now, in the good old days, when all bike parts were made of decent honest cast iron, fixing broken bits was easy. You welded, or brazed them up. With the trusty oxy torch. Which I can still do tolerably well.

    Unfortunately, (and IMHO very ill advisedly) manufacturers seem determined to use more and more plastic and less and less cast iron nowadays.

    Which leaves the question, what does one do when it gets broken ?

    I know that broken plastic CAN be welded up. But I doubt that it involves an oxy torch.

    I see plastic welding kits on Tardme for around 500 - 600 bucks.

    But I have no idea of whether they are any good or not (it's rather a lot to pay for an experiment). And where do you get filler rods (I presume some sort of filler is required). And such like questions.

    And ,and , and , generally.

    Anyone know the gubbins on it.

    Oh, and is it hard to do? And are the results worth it, or does it just look like crap anyway, and it would be just as well to stick with fibreglass repair kits and Araldite?
    Not sure what area you are in but i use a guy out in Waiuku and he does a superb job at reasonable price. Can get his number if ya like...

  6. #51
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    7th June 2009 - 17:08
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    just tried some sealeys aradite from repco on my fairing lugs..... seem to be holding strong but will keep you posted
    I asked God for a bike, but I know God doesn't work that way. So I stole a bike and asked for forgiveness.

  7. #52
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    4th November 2007 - 13:39
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    any glue that has been used on repairs i refuse to fix
    the fumes they give off when heated are very toxic

    plastic fabricator/welder here if you need a hand ! will work for beer/bourbon/booze

    come ride the southern roads www.southernrider.co.nz

  8. #53
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    7th June 2009 - 17:08
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    ARADITE WORKS VERY VERY WELL.... strong bond and dries clear give 24hrs to set fully though
    I asked God for a bike, but I know God doesn't work that way. So I stole a bike and asked for forgiveness.

  9. #54
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    12th February 2010 - 10:21
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    Hi, I spotted this thread on the net and decided I should join to help out and of course, to promote my services! I am a specialist plastic repairer based in Levin and I repair anything & everything but, I especially enjoy sport, road bike semi rigid plastic repairs. See my website www.plasticweldingrepairs.co.nz or www.falconplastics.co.nz I advise anyone; NEVER attempt to glue or attack ANY plastic with a soldering iron, it will not work, well, maybe, till just after the bike is sold---- All Thermoplastics, as against ThermoSET plastics, are temperature sensitive and have a narrow weld temp range, a non adjustable soldering iron will burn & destroy the weld area. An adjustable soldering iron will only 'MELD', it cannot perform a proper weld but, if good technique is used may do a quick, just acceptable job - not the ideal.
    There is a confusion re 'gluing' and solvent or chemical welding - a glue will simply sit on top of the substrate and maybe, lock around some rough or edged areas, one nudge and it will separate. Polyethylene >PE< and Polypropylene >PP< plastics are completely impervious to Solvents/chemicals and therefore ALL & any glues. Here's a clue; PP & PE are used to contain chemicals.
    There are some expensive two part adhesives that with special preparation can do a reasonable job on some plastics but I rarely use them.
    The majority of road bikes utilize >ABS< type plastics which can be hot-air or solvent welded. The problem with using hot-air on ABS is, it warps, can crack while being welded even when pre-heated and, thin areas will just blow away. This explains why many hot air welds fail - the welder is afraid of blowing through so he limits the temperature which causes a poor weld, he also wont weld both sides as a welder should. These welds need a lot of FGlass filler which makes the fairing more rigid, less able to flex and is likely to crack quite easily. Also, Urethane FG & most other fillers I have encountered do not adhere to semi rigid plastics that well.

    A good weld is where the substrate and the rod/weld material melt at the correct temp or liquidity and adjoining molecules start holding hands! It takes some knowledge/experience and excellent equipment to be able do this on every weld.

    On the other hand, Solvent welding ABS type plastics produces no warping or cracks & therefore a minimum of refinishing. Extra reinforcing material can be easily added where needed, tight areas can be accessed, small lugs can be repaired & re attached, decals can be better preserved. The only negatives for solvent welding are; there is a curing time which increases with the thickness of added material. Incorrect procedure can make repainting a problem. Aeration of the added material has to be avoided to effect a strong weld, this can be critical.
    I have developed, through experience, the technology required to provide guaranteed repairs to ABS plastics.

    Performance bikes may have front fairings made of nylon >PA< (which has to be hot air welded only), others may be ABS or some alloy mix like >PA/PBT<. All plastics have their own unique properties and repair techniques, you cannot weld one plastic with another.
    I hope I have helped those interested here and cleared the air some. I am willing to answer questions (without giving away trade secrets of course!) re your particular plastic problem.
    All KiwiBiker members will receive a 10% discount on labour should they require my services.
    Brian plastic.welding.repairs@vodafone.co.nz

  10. #55
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    4th November 2007 - 13:39
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    thanks for the reply
    good to hear of other ppl in the trade

    plastic fabricator/welder here if you need a hand ! will work for beer/bourbon/booze

    come ride the southern roads www.southernrider.co.nz

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