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Thread: Use meths or

  1. #16
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    You can get kits to prevent this but the best bet is go to a radiator repair shop that does fuel tank repairs, the will descale the tank and put a rust killer in first and clan the tank, then the epoxy, if you are not in a hurry and chey are doing another tank around the same time you maybe able to get ti done a bit cheaper.
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  2. #17
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    19th January 2006 - 19:13
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMemonic View Post
    You can get kits to prevent this but the best bet is go to a radiator repair shop that does fuel tank repairs, the will descale the tank and put a rust killer in first and clan the tank, then the epoxy, if you are not in a hurry and chey are doing another tank around the same time you maybe able to get ti done a bit cheaper.
    All the white gunk you can see inside the tank is the sealer from one of the kits,sadly though a bit late.Holes in tank are all fixed as we speak
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  3. #18
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    what does the meths do to the water?

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by 96 600ss View Post
    what does the meths do to the water?
    Miscible which means they mix (something like that)the water goes through the system with the petrol.
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  5. #20
    Meths can work,but the ratio is pretty critical - not enough and it'll drop out into the water,too much and it'll move into the fuel.It also pulls a lot of shit into the system,enough to block filters.A better method is to use some sort of soluble oil additive as Ixion mentions.When I used to buy recycled parts wash,they used to just a soluble additive to the solvent to turn it into a degreaser....what ever that stuff is,is what you need.
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  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ixion View Post
    Machinists' soluble cutting oil.
    Is that what's its called? Any idea where to buy this and how much?...thanks
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  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by klyong82 View Post
    Is that what's its called? Any idea where to buy this and how much?...thanks
    Try an engineering supply store like Paykels.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by AllanB View Post
    I owned (from new) a 1983 Kawasaki that I sold two and a half years ago and the tank was mint - no sign of rust. I attribute this to keeping it full after each ride.
    If there was water in the tank, keeping the fuel tank full would help somewhat to keep air away from the water and bit of tank it was next to, thus helping to stop oxidation occuring. However, there's no way it would be completely anaerobic, so it would gradually rust anyway, if it was going to.

    Quote Originally Posted by 98tls View Post
    It will affect any bike with a steel tank,problem with bikes such as mine is the water cant go anywhere,only way to completly remove it is to take tank off remove fuel pump from the tank and empty,a teaspoon of meths every few fills would seem easier methinks,pity i never botheredwould have saved me some time/money.
    Yeah.
    I had an '85 VF500 that had an unfortunately shaped tank, where the back parts of the tank were narrow and lower than the rest of the tank. The one on the right-hand side (away from the tap) would never ever drain completely. I developed rust there, with a couple of pinholes right through the paintwork. I tried to fix it properly and soldered them up (brazing would've been better) then used the Kreem tank repair system (rust remover, acetone then sealer), but it continued to spring a leak every few months, probably because I wasn't aggressive enough with cutting the pinholes back far enough. Also the tank sealer was pretty viscous, so it was hard to make sure it coated every part of the inside of the tank.
    I think once your tank has any rust inside, it's difficult to completely eradicate it without really dedicated and complete repair and protection.
    ... and that's what I think.

    Or summat.


    Or maybe not...

    Dunno really....


  9. #24
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    19th January 2006 - 19:13
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    Bugger me with all the solder/copper on the left hand side of the tank the old TL will just drop like a stone round lefthanders
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