Applying Rock Oil chain wax

**slofox** · 6th November 2008, 13:11

Bought a can of this today.......
Instructions tell you to "apply sparingly to bottom run of chain"
My (probably dumb) question is, what exactly is the "bottom run" of the chain? Sounds like they mean just the half length of chain between the bottom of the two sprockets....(which would seem weird to me but then maybe it gets spread by the sprockets...? Huh?) or is it the inside of the whole chain?......Every time I read instructions like this I see a myriad of possibilities as to what the hell they mean..

...ngngngngn.
But I would appreciate an explanation if anyone has the knowing thereof.....

**vifferman** · 6th November 2008, 13:16

It means that you apply it to the top surface of the length of chain between the bottom of the two sprockets, so that you are applying it to the inside of the chain links. Rotate the rear wheel, and repeat, until you've treated the whole chain. This way, you are applying the lube only to the surface that contacts the sprockets, so that centripetal force will move it outwards as the sprockets spin around.
As for the "sparingly" bit, it's really only the bit between the link plates that needs to be lubed. If you're patient, you can squirt a very minute amount on each link/pin junction, and the solvents in the lube will suck it in between the link plate and pin. None of the other parts that make up the chain need lubing.
If you're impatient, just spray the heck out of the chain, until it's dripping wet. The excess will fling off anyway, nicely lubing the inside of your chain guard, and piling up around the countershaft sprocket. If you accumumlate enough chain spooge there, the chain becomes self-lubing.

**xwhatsit** · 6th November 2008, 13:21

Vifferführer has got it, you lube the inside of the chain. And yes, do the whole thing, not just one part :P

Also, the rollers can take care of themselves. The really important bit to lube is the two outside bits where the chain hinges between links. Where the plates overlap each other. I turn the whole chain through just twice -- once for one side of the chain, once for the other side of the chain.

**slofox** · 6th November 2008, 13:23

Originally Posted by vifferman

It means that you apply it to the top surface of the length of chain between the bottom of the two sprockets, so that you are applying it to the inside of the chain links. Rotate the rear wheel, and repeat, until you've treated the whole chain. This way, you are applying the lube only to the surface that contacts the sprockets, so that centripetal force will move it outwards as the sprockets spin around.
As for the "sparingly" bit, it's really only the bit between the link plates that needs to be lubed. If you're patient, you can squirt a very minute amount on each link/pin junction, and the solvents in the lube will suck it in between the link plate and pin. None of the other parts that make up the chain need lubing.
If you're impatient, just spray the heck out of the chain, until it's dripping wet.

Ahhhhhhhh - how obvious. Thanks viff - you obviously have a more logical thought process than do I......(thought I was probably being a dork...)

**Katman** · 6th November 2008, 13:24

The Rock Oil chain lube isn't a wax either. Don't spray it on immediately before riding or you'll end up with it everywhere. The solvent in the lube needs time to evaporate.

Maxima do a great Chain Wax.

**vifferman** · 6th November 2008, 13:26

Originally Posted by slofox

Thanks viff - you obviously have a more logical thought process than do I......(thought I was probably being a dork...)

Not at all - I've just lubed many, many chains. Eventually, I worked out how to do it, and found the best lubes for the job. Then I made a Handy Dandy Chain Cleaning'n' Lubing Doofer, and the job moved into a whole new realm.
Then I removed that silly "air guide" thing from in front of the bottom of the rear sprocket, and it got easier again (and my bike didn't look so silly).

**xwhatsit** · 6th November 2008, 13:49

Originally Posted by Katman

Maxima do a great Chain Wax.

When I apply it in my gargre, it makes me giggly and light-headed too. Funny smelling stuff ^^

Vifflemon, what in the hell is that? Linky-poo?

**vifferman** · 6th November 2008, 14:02

Originally Posted by xwhatsit

When I apply it in my gargre, it makes me giggly and light-headed too. Funny smelling stuff ^^

Then you need to use Spectro Chain wax - it smells really good, but not when you squirt it up your nose.

Originally Posted by xwhatsit

Vifflemon, what in the hell is that? Linky-poo?

It's a Handy Dandy Chain Cleaning'n' Lubing Doofer, of course.
I made it out of scraps in the gargre, one day when my end was loose.
The stand bit is a leftover from the kitchen I built in Roundabouta (the town formerly known as Tauranga), the metal bit is made from the metal strips used to reinforce pallets of kiwifruit, with cut up milk bottles riveted to the top of the back.
Must make a new! Improved! With Added Goodness! model.
I shall call it the Handy Dandy Chain Cleaning'n'Lubing Doffer MarkII, or Harold (for short, as that's a bit of a mouthful. And a mouthful of chain lube or chain spooge would be most unpleasant).

It works!
I can clean the chain with kero without it getting on the floor or back tyre, and lube the chain without lube getting where it shouldn't ought to, like on the cat.
But iffen I had one of them other cats, I'd probably spray some lube on it too, accidentally on purpose like. Don't like cats, especially not the one that pees on the BBQ cover.

**slofox** · 6th November 2008, 14:19

Originally Posted by Katman

The Rock Oil chain lube isn't a wax either.

The can says "Rock Oil Chain WAX for o-ring, x-ring & standard chains".....?
You sure its not a wax?

**Marmoot** · 6th November 2008, 14:47

I just tried Renthal chain oil the other day. It was in a little bottle that you need to squeeze, not the aerosol can type.

It looks good, lubing the chain very well so far and the bike did feel much lighter when I push it over afterwards.

But, even after leaving it on for 12 hours, the oil flings (flung?) like a horny dirty whore on viagra at the millionaire gentlemen's club.

A quick wipe on the black spooge and a little wipe on the chain with paper towel while turning the wheel solved the issue. I rode it today and not a single fleck of flung black spots on the bike panels.
The chain still looks wet and lubed, so I presume it is still good.

Very happy.

**vifferman** · 6th November 2008, 14:56

Originally Posted by Marmoot

A quick wipe on the black spooge and a little wipe on the chain with paper towel while turning the wheel solved the issue.

I do that even when using the more so-fist-i-cate-d chain lubes that have evaporatey solvents. Saves mess.
Still need to take off the countershaft sprocket cover whenever there's a blue moon, to let out the bats, assorted demons, and to scrape out all the accumulated chain spooge.

**Marmoot** · 6th November 2008, 16:00

Originally Posted by vifferman

I do that even when using the more so-fist-i-cate-d chain lubes that have evaporatey solvents. Saves mess.
Still need to take off the countershaft sprocket cover whenever there's a blue moon, to let out the bats, assorted demons, and to scrape out all the accumulated chain spooge.

Correct, fuhrer.

Ideally, you would take your bike around the block to circulate the lube into the chain well, clean whatever flies away and stick on the undesired places, and wipe the chain.

Geniuses would lube the chain and wipe it. It stops the flinging as there would be no lube left on the chain....

**Owl** · 6th November 2008, 17:33

Originally Posted by Katman

The Rock Oil chain lube isn't a wax either. Don't spray it on immediately before riding or you'll end up with it everywhere. The solvent in the lube needs time to evaporate.

I've left that shit for nearly a week and it still ends up everywhere. I went back to Bel-Ray!

Originally Posted by slofox

The can says "Rock Oil Chain WAX for o-ring, x-ring & standard chains".....?
You sure its not a wax?

It ain't like any wax I've seen. I'd call it oil!