American wandering New Zealand

[the vet]

Next to explore was Northland. I made a quick stop in Rotorua, rented a bicycle and rode out the buried village from the Mt. Tarawera eruption and learned a bit about history of the pink and white terraces, now long gone. Also a hike to the top of Rainbow mountain...and of course, a soak in the hot pools. Then to Auckland where I reacquainted with another KB'er and met his family...a great family... and someone I hope to call 'friend' henceforward. Thanks again Ralph!

[the vet]

Also in Auckland, I stayed briefly with a friend I'd met previously and briefly on two different occasions...fate....suffice to say, I fell in 'like' with a kiwi....it was the beginning....

[Hinny]

That's a big fat assed pig. Mmmm bacon sandwiches.

[Nasty]

Welcome back babe!

[the vet]

Words to live by Nasty! Hope you are well! Happy New Year.

I left Auckland and began to make my way up the East brief stops planned at Goat Island, Leigh Sawmill and eventually up to meet some friends and dive the Poor Knights Islands, even though it was a bit early in the season. The camper vans had begun to increase in numbers, but not too bad. i found the campsites and backpackers still relatively empty...October. The weather was still glorious that Spring, the riding just awesome. A stop and stay outside of Whangarei at the Little Earth lodge and some exploration of the Abbey Caves, glow-worms etc. Then up to Tutakaka for some diving. Any diving for me is a gift experience and the Poor knights beautiful....but the days we were out, the visibility not so great...Oh well.

[the vet]

From Little Earth Lodge I backtracked through Whangarei over to the west on 14 through Dargaville, then up to the Waipoua Forest to visit the Kauris...a must see to meet my tourist obligations. Amazing trees; the photos don't do them justice. The Redwoods of Northern California are similar in that they just blow you away with their sheer size.....but the Kauris very different, and therefore very unique....

[the vet]

I spent about 3 days in Kohukohu at the Tree House. Really nice down to earth owners and accommodation. It was here the V-Strom hit the dirt for the first time. It rained, the ground quickly got soft and the stand sunk...over she went, broken signal lights, but really no other damage....oh well, more or less 11 months on the bike, and this the only time she hit the ground...touch wood. I explored a bit of the coast from here, had a couple beers in KohuKohu and one great but gray day picking mussels with German Martin and English Beth....mmm love NZ mussels. We each prepared a different mussel dish back at the tree house and feasted with anyone else interested.

[the vet]

I guess because of the 'more' tropical climates and the proximity to NZ's largest city, I thought Northland would be more crowded, more bachs, more people in general. My impression was not that at all...as rural a feel as most of the places in NZ I visited. I guess that is more on the west coast though, although apart from the Bay of Islands and Whangarei, I found the east side to be similar. I really do love that about NZ, the rural feel, towns with population '220'. I thought about trying to ride 90 mile beach on the V-Strom, but decided no go with the weight of baggage and my belongings and the wear/tear on gearing, chain, etc. Briefly looked into trying to find a more suitable rental bike to explore on, but had no luck, so passed it by. More photos from near Hokianga Harbor.

[the vet]

From bottom to top, and many places in between. As many have before me, I traveled on the bike from Invercargill right up to the top. A luxury I created for myself in the middle of my life; interjected with some living and working and a small taste of what it is to be 'Kiwi'....and an American living in another country...an importance many kiwis recognize in the form of their 'OE'---something most Americans don't recognize the value of, which is a shame. On a stretch of road I passed a tractor and out of the corner of my eye caught what looked like...a dog....planted firmly on the engine hood...traveling at about 30 km/hr or so, perhaps more.....I pulled over a distance ahead and snapped a photo just in time....perfect. To me, kiwi in so many ways.

[the vet]

I went right up to the top and saw the lighthouse, then moved on to the DOC campground nearby and set up my little tent. One morning I walked the track back up to Reinga as the lighthouse came into view, this kind of freak storm blew in---just this solitary storm on an otherwise clear and sunny morning. I don't want to sound all hippy-dippy, but a rainbow appeared arched over the tip, and remembering some of the Maori significance of the site, thought it symbolic of a place where souls leave this place.

The rain passed quickly and I carried on for the rest of a sunny day.

[george formby]

Well hello! Just can't stay away eh?

Dang, thought you where back. Now I've lost my facepalm thingy. Oh well. All the best. How much snow you got?

[the vet]

...with a stop camped for a couple nights on beautiful Maitai Bay just to relax, swim and enjoy a great beach. A few days around KeriKeri, Paihia and Russell. I did some more diving out of Northland Dive in Whagaruru, owned and operated by Shane and Julia>>truly passionate about what they do. Dove Hole in the Rock and then the Canterbury Wreck and camped on the Northland Dive grounds. From there I walked the Cape Brett tramp and pretty much had the DOC hut to myself for 2 nights.

[the vet]

Long walk, but beautiful. I'll tell you, if you need to shut off the brain for a while, no better way to do it then kilometers on the bike or a long tramp....you just shut out the day to day 'noise', and your mind goes to some pretty enriched places. The contemplation achieved for me in those quiet times has definitely changed the direction of my life.

[the vet]

Those were the original motivations for me to come to New Zealand...but its become so much more as I sit and type and finish this ride report....3 years after I started it...with just some vision.

So a couple more adventures. Near Whangaruru and Oakura I wanted to fish...open your eyes, pay attention to what is presented to you, and wa la....there it is. The next day out on the water with Justin, snapper and cray, then prepared by his partner in their home for a fresh seafood meal...

[the vet]

Near Northland Dive in Whangaruru is a backpackers/homestay/recreation type of place. Its actually kind of hard to define. The Farm is about 1000 acres if memory serves. It is part working farm and dairy, part equestrian retreat, part off road motorbiking retreat where you can bring your dirt bike or rent one...and ride. Its a hodgepodge of family, kids, foreign travelers, Wwoofers, weekend warriors and kids camp/retreat. I stopped out of curiosity to learn that the male partner owner is a veterinarian and off road motorbiking enthusiast, the female partner an American ex-pat...needless to say, it felt instantly like a second home to me; but not just cause of the similarities, they make everyone feel that way. Their immediate family consists of 6 kids, 2 of whom are adopted twin Maori boys...but when you are there, everyone you encounter feels like family. I rode, I mustered cows, I helped vaccinate and castrate, make some minor bike repairs....then I ventured with the family to an enduro event where even non family kids were taken under wing, given a bike to ride and entered into the event. Mike, his wife, their kids, the farm...wow...that is family. What a pure way for kids to come up...and not just their own...anyone, any kid who seemed to happen onto the farm became family. Awesome. What a perfect experience to round out my time on my first visit to New Zealand.