Hyosung front fork maintenance?

[mapsanji]

Need some help, My Hyo's shocks is very "soft" how can I refill it with oil, can I do it myself... If so How..??

[CookMySock]

The "best" way to sort the GT250R forks, is to fit some racetech cartridge emulators. $330 plus fitting. I'm looking at some for our bikes. Come over sometime if you like, and I'll show you what I have found out about them.

Steve

[Gubb]

Try a heavier grade of fork oil, it helped mine.

[mapsanji]

Thanx DB, I'll let you know later... pm me your details and I will contact you.
Thanx again.

[CookMySock]

Added you to my friends list, just bowl on over anytime - txt me first in case I'm not there.

As Gubb suggests, a heavier grade oil will increase the low-speed compression and rebound damping. The problem is, it will also increase the high-speed damping and make the suspension "bash" when you hit sharp-edged bumps. So you don't get one without the other.

Steve

[disenfranchised]

As Gubb suggests, a heavier grade oil will increase the low-speed compression and rebound damping. The problem is, it will also increase the high-speed damping and make the suspension "bash" when you hit sharp-edged bumps. So you don't get one without the other.

Steve

That's exactly what I'm getting.
They stay on the road alright, but aren't the most comfortable ride over judder bars and potholes.

I'd also thought it might be becuase it sags to much once weight is on it that there's just not much travel left.
Are those racetech things basically new springs??

[CookMySock]

That's exactly what I'm getting.
They stay on the road alright, but aren't the most comfortable ride over judder bars and potholes. I'd also thought it might be becuase it sags to much once weight is on it that there's just not much travel left. Are those racetech things basically new springs??

Well there are two parts of bike (or any) suspension. Roughly ;

The springs hold the bike in the correct position ready for it to hit a bump. They are not part of any damping. No springs = clank! bike shocks hit rock bottom. Springs need to be the correct "weight" to support the rider.

The hydraulic part of the suspension stops the springs from flinging themselves to extremes of travel, so you get to ride a bike, not a rockinghorse. No hydraulics = rockinghorse!

If you brake hard or corner hard, you need the suspension to hold the bike in a reasonably sane geometry so you so can still ride it. Bikes don't corner or brake well with the suspension completely bottomed or topped out.

If you hit a nasty sharp-edged lump on the road, like a pothole or a lip joining two sections of road, you need the hydraulics to "give way" and not transfer that jolt through to the bike, or it will launch you in the air, or at least give you a nasty chop to your spine. Ugh.

So do we want the suspension to be firm, or soft? The answer is we want both but at different times. Racetech emulators can do this, because they have little valve thingies in them that "fold back" out of the way (sort of) when you whack something hard, or hold on firmly at other times like when you are braking.

So, they cost about $330 for a set to do both front forks (left and right). Any suspension shop can fit them easily, but I would get someone to do who has done it before, or do it myself.

This of course does not solve the rear end.

HTH,
Steve


Steve

[Iain]

Try a heavier grade of fork oil, it helped mine.

Hey mate,

Did you replace the fork oil while you were in Auckland? Where did you take it or did you do it yourself? I suspect I need some heavier grade oil in mine.

Iain

[Gubb]

Hey mate,

Did you replace the fork oil while you were in Auckland? Where did you take it or did you do it yourself? I suspect I need some heavier grade oil in mine.

Iain

Did it myself. Piece of piss. I've got all the gear here if you wanna a hand doing it. Just drop me a PM sometime.

[Lau]

Just chucking this out there.. My wife's GT250 was involved in a low speed off a little while back, as a result the front subframe bent inwards and left a gouge on the top fork tube (about 1mm deep). What I would like to know is.. Has anyone encountered this before? if so, what was the remedy? am wondering whether to give it a bit of a sand and paint or is the tube a bit on the thin side and need replacing?