ESE's works engine tuner

**lodgernz** · 29th October 2014, 09:29

Originally Posted by adegnes

Link wont work for me. Tried looking around at a few of the other EMOT sites but no luck...

There is a page on converting engines to RV, but it's about EMOT doing it for you, rather than you doing it yourself.
There are some bits you can buy from him though.

**SwePatrick** · 29th October 2014, 10:46

Originally Posted by jonny quest

I had a half hearted attempt at running E85 on a 4 stroke.... it makes power. From what i remember it likes 7:1 instead of 14:1 air to fuel. One peculiar thing about that fuel, even though it made more bottom end power... it wasn't crisp and snappy down low. But again. .. i didn't spend a ton of time getting jetting just right. On a 250cc 4strk single it was 2hp better than 93 pump

Just about 30% more than petrol is correct.

**adegnes** · 29th October 2014, 20:29

Heres some pics of this contraption of mine, if anyone's interested.

It's a Peugeot Spx 103, a bit modified.

Stock bike

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Naked

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With fairing

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Previous version of the engine

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New engine in progress, went from this:

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To this:

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In two evenings with a dremel, without the aid of beer, a feat I'm quite proud of.

**adegnes** · 29th October 2014, 20:37

More pics of new engine.

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Just a mockup, but it will be mounted "upside down" with a straight exhaust.

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**husaberg** · 29th October 2014, 21:04

Originally Posted by lodgernz

There is a page on converting engines to RV, but it's about EMOT doing it for you, rather than you doing it yourself.
There are some bits you can buy from him though.

Roffe site has them listed as well and on one of the threads the euro or britsh 50cc racing ones he details a few conversions.
Including for the MB50/derbi /rotary valve/
he sells the bits as well.
http://www.vrm.se/
like everyone else it seems hes on Facebook as well.........

**adegnes** · 29th October 2014, 21:48

Originally Posted by husaberg

Roffe site has them listed as well and on one of the threads the euro or britsh 50cc racing ones he details a few conversions.
Including for the MB50/derbi /rotary valve/
he sells the bits as well.
http://www.vrm.se/
like everyone else it seems hes on Facebook as well.........

I appreciate you all trying to help me out here, but I'm not really looking for info on how to do a conversion, I may have worded myself incorectly. I'm just wondering what to go for; a roundish port or one wider at the top. I marked it in the picture.
Attachment 304702

**husaberg** · 29th October 2014, 21:52

Originally Posted by adegnes

I appreciate you all trying to help me out here, but I'm not really looking for info on how to do a conversion, I may have worded myself incorectly. I'm just wondering what to go for; a roundish port or one wider at the top. I marked in the picture.
Attachment 304702

I got that don't worry I was just added in the Roffe stuff cause I hope to get commission...lol
Fits or jan I think discussed the shape on pitlane probably part one or part two.

Also this is Jan of FB

"Jan Thiel" If you use the same diameter for the inlet hole as the carburetor you would need a very big disc diameter, so usually the inlet duct is oval. So it is usually a compromise of available room and carburetor diameter, also thinking about friction...........

...........Later the disc diameter was enlarged to 123, later 126, because of the flow loss the 120mm disc caused......

I understand these inlet ports are ok.......

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**adegnes** · 29th October 2014, 21:58

No problem!
I'll see if I can find it!

**husaberg** · 29th October 2014, 22:03

Originally Posted by adegnes

No problem!
I'll see if I can find it!

I have a few crankcase and RSW pics and others here.......
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/al...p?albumid=4862

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/al...p?albumid=4839

**adegnes** · 29th October 2014, 22:52

Originally Posted by husaberg

I have a few crankcase and RSW pics and others here.......
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/al...p?albumid=4862

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/al...p?albumid=4839

Thanks!
Seems like roundish is the way to go.
Am I right in concluding that with the same timing, even though a port with a wider top will open more of it's area early and keep more area open for longer, the better flow and consistent shape from carb trough the intake of a round one is to prefer?

**adegnes** · 30th October 2014, 03:37

Another question:
The bike I'm building is single variated, variator on the crank fixed pulley on a jackshaft with chain drive to the wheel on the opposite side.
The whole engine moves towards the fixed pulley when it variates. The engine mount allows for some axial movement, to keep the pulleys aligned during variation. Now to the question; with the variator doing it's thing, force is applied both axialy and radialy, is floating the crank a bad idea? Both crank bearings are press fit on the crank in stock form.

**Frits Overmars** · 30th October 2014, 03:47

Originally Posted by adegnes

The bike I'm building is single variated, variator on the crank fixed pulley on a jackshaft with chain drive to the wheel on the opposite side. The whole engine moves towards the fixed pulley when it variates. The engine mount allows for some axial movement, to keep the pulleys aligned during variation. Now to the question; with the variator doing it's thing, force is applied both axialy and radialy, is floating the crank a bad idea? Both crank bearings are press fit on the crank in stock form.

Yes floating the crank, normally desirable, is a bad idea in this case. Or rather, the single variator is a bad idea (it's French, you know...)

**adegnes** · 30th October 2014, 03:56

Originally Posted by Frits Overmars

Yes floating the crank, normally desirable, is a bad idea in this case. Or rather, the single variator is a bad idea (it's French, you know...)

Thanks!
Yep, not exactly an ideal solution... But it has one advantage over dual variated - you can easily gain some manual control over it with a foot lever.

**Frits Overmars** · 30th October 2014, 04:07

Originally Posted by adegnes

Yep, not exactly an ideal solution... But it has one advantage over dual variated - you can easily gain some manual control over it with a foot lever.

It sounds like you're in the market for a real vintage bike; you'll have manual control over mixture strength and ignition advance too.
By the way, doesn't 'manual' mean: by hand? I'd love to see you reach down and adjust the gearing coming out of every corner

.

**adegnes** · 30th October 2014, 04:18

Originally Posted by Frits Overmars

It sounds like you're in the market for a real vintage bike; you'll have manual control over mixture strength and ignition advance too.
By the way, doesn't 'manual' mean: by hand? I'd love to see you reach down and adjust the gearing coming out of every corner

.

Footual?
Yeah, no it's more like this is what I've got, and I enjoy having fun modifiyng it, most of all the learning part of it.