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Thread: ESE's works engine tuner

  1. #16471
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    Quote Originally Posted by adegnes View Post
    I use a aux coolant pump from a mercedes, works good. You find it on a lot of different cars.
    Do you know the current draw on that pump ?

  2. #16472
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dutch Fisher View Post
    Do you know the current draw on that pump ?
    About 1.5amp I think.

  3. #16473
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    Maybe You know how many liters pers minute it pump?

  4. #16474
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muciek View Post
    Maybe You know how many liters pers minute it pump?
    Sorry, have searched around to, can't find any numbers. I can test it later today.

  5. #16475
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    Quote Originally Posted by adegnes View Post
    Sorry, have searched around to, can't find any numbers. I can test it later today.
    My research lab facility show 25l/min unrestricted.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #16476
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    Quote Originally Posted by adegnes View Post
    I use a aux coolant pump from a mercedes, works good. You find it on a lot of different cars.
    If you want to use car parts, the best pumps are the ones that circulate coolant through the intercoolers of turbo-engines.

  7. #16477
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    Quote Originally Posted by ken seeber View Post
    Couldn't help myself. 5 hp = 4 kw @ 160 lit/min gives a temp rise of 0.36 deg C .
    Maybe I can help, Ken. The cooling system doesn't hold 160 liters; not even 6 liters.
    What little water there is, circulates, gets warmed up, circulates again, gets warmed up some more, etc.

  8. #16478
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    Yes the 1.35 case ratio will include the transfer volume - I always drill a piston and do the laborious task of filling the thing up.
    I wouldnt take too much notice of the sim result regarding case ratios.
    This is only a 1 dimesional sim, and wont recognise the effect that the crap transfer duct geometry has on performance - apart from the inputs
    that Neels has arranged to reduce power with "straight" Vs "teacup" designs and sharp Vs round duct entries.
    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  9. #16479
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frits Overmars View Post
    If you want to use car parts, the best pumps are the ones that circulate coolant through the intercoolers of turbo-engines.
    The factory water/air intercooler system in the Subaru Liberty RS uses an impeller-type pump rated at 15 litres a minute (all flow figures are open-flow). It is automatically switched from low to high speed as required. This is an ideal pump because it was designed by Subaru to circulate the water in a water/air intercooling system! However, it is a very expensive to buy new, but if one can be sourced secondhand it is ideal.

    A cheap and simple impeller pump is the Whale GP99 electric pump. It is so small that the in-line pump can be supported by the hoses that connect to it. It flows 11 litres a minute and has 12mm hose fittings. It is 136 x 36mm in size and is suitable for discontinuous operation. This pump is available from marine and caravan suppliers.

    The Flojet 4100-143 4000 is a diaphragm pump suitable for water/air intercooler use. The US-manufactured pump uses a permanent magnet brush-type fan-cooled motor with ball-bearings and is fully rebuildable. The pumping head uses four diaphragms which are flexed by a wobble plate attached to the motor's shaft. The 19 litre/minute pump uses ¾ inch fittings and is 230mm long and 86mm in diameter. It is available from companies supplying agricultural spray equipment.

    The Flojet pump needs to be mounted either vertically with the pump head at the bottom, or horizontally with the vent slots in the head facing downwards. This is to stop any fluid draining into the motor if there are any sealing problems in the pump head. At its peak pressure of 280 kPa (40 psi), the pump can draw up to 14 amps; however, in intercooler operation the pressure is vastly less and so the pump draws only about 5.5 amps at 12 volts. The pump is noisy (as all diaphragm pumps are) but mounting it on a rubber gearbox crossmember mount effectively quietens it. Note that these pumps are much louder when mounted to the car's bodywork than they are when sitting on the bench!
    Autospeed....

    davies
    https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/s...ric-water-pump
    http://www.mawsolutions.com/html/ebp.html


    http://www.chargecooler.co.uk/index....roducts_id=184
    http://www.metricmind.com/category/e...y-water-pumps/


    Jegs
    http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...50950/10002/-1
    http://www.jegs.com/i/Dedenbear/302/WP3/10002/-1
    http://www.jegs.com/i/Meziere/680/WP136S/10002/-
    http://www.jegs.com/i/CSR/170/923/10002/-1
    http://www.jegs.com/i/Proform/778/68220BK/10002/-1 140 liters / minute $187 US
    http://www.jegs.com/i/Proform/778/66225R/10002/-1 140 liters / minute $170 US
    http://www.jegs.com/i/Ford+Racing/39...-MSVT/10002/-1

    US Gallons are about 4 liters

    BDK
    http://www.bdkraceeng.co.uk/Electric...0Pump%201.html

    left field
    http://www.suremarineservice.com/CM30P7-1-3/4.aspx
    http://www.amazon.com/Brushless-Sola...xp_grid_pt_0_1
    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/60-PSI-17...-/111236121288
    Last edited by husaberg; 28th January 2015 at 15:48. Reason: added links later
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    I reminder distinctly .




    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  10. #16480
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    BDK Engineering in England do a pump with a controller that speeds up the pump in relation to preset upper and lower temps.
    Works a treat on my dyno, dunno about a running bike, but they have reports of use on all sorts of powerful sidecars etc.

    EDIT - the new kit I got said the pump had been uprated to 20L/Min
    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  11. #16481
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    Quote Originally Posted by jasonu View Post
    Not if you plan on rebuilding the crank in the future.
    this is true. although you can grind the weld off but its a pain in the ass and you run the risk of gouging the crankpin bore if all the weld isnt removed before to try to press off the wheel

  12. #16482
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    Quote Originally Posted by 41juergen View Post
    Thanks' Wob, I use a 66mm bore and playing with the CC comp it shows a bit more power when going up to 1.4 (still with YAM1 as the next set of barrels then will get the A port over the B port setup). Is the 1.35 with the volume of the transfer ducts included?
    like wobbly said, i wouldnt pay much notice to the sim case ratio. it will be all over the place once you start changing the parameters of ducts and reedvalves, etc. find a old piston and drill a hole in the top and use oil. thats what i did. the sim was giving me a strange case ratio so i didnt pay much attention to it

  13. #16483
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    The only reason the sim would throw up an odd ratio ( as opposed to the one you actually entered ) would be if you
    didnt tell it the transfer ducts were included - as they always will be if its measured properly.
    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  14. #16484
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    EngMod question

    Ok got it. I just did that with a 65,5mm bore and a 54mm stroke and came to a CC CR of 1,38, just work with that.
    About the C port length I played a bit and got that results:
    sim 343: 30 mm, sim 344: 45 mm, sim 345: 37 mm, sim 346: 40 mm
    So may be because of a too high dynamic comp at least here a minimum of 45mm is needed to reduce / eliminate the influence.

    I also played with the distance from piston face to exhaust transducer. The sim shows the highest value at approx. 300mm, a bit far, eh? In my current setup I have the temp sensor mounted approx. 200 mm behind piston face....
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  15. #16485
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    The real issue is that all of those TubMax values are way too high to begin with, and the influence of the C port is being overstated.
    There are a heap of points that would make the TubMax values too high, from too much com or MSV, tailpipe too small, too much ignition, Comb Eff too high
    etc etc.
    You need to fix the real problem, as going over 940 end gas temp anywhere instantly gets you way close to detonation.
    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

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