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Thread: ESE's works engine tuner

  1. #16501
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    23rd September 2014 - 19:35
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    Quote Originally Posted by senso View Post
    Probably gluing is going to break the magnetic path, get a pick-up that has removable iron/magnet and use one of those, the CRM125 pick-up allows that, and does the yamaha dt lc 50 one, but those might be bike models rare in where you live.
    Thanks. Do you mean to use the magnet from one of those pickup as the extension?

    Posted a cross section sketch, no glue between extension and pickup.
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  2. #16502
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    20th April 2011 - 08:45
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    Quote Originally Posted by adegnes View Post
    Is it possible to "extend" a magnetic pickup? Say I want to trigger from a toothed wheel behind a 5mm aluminium plate, can I drill a hole in said plate and glue a steel/iron/magnetic pin in there, then but the pickup up against the pin on the outside?
    Can't you use a Hall sensor? They are available in all shapes and sizes, even down to the shape of an M4-bolt, and they are indestructible.
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  3. #16503
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frits Overmars View Post
    Can't you use a Hall sensor? They are available in all shapes and sizes, even down to the shape of an M4-bolt, and they are indestructible.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    That would be ideal, can I use one with an Ignitech?
    I mailed them months ago asking, never got a reply.

  4. #16504
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    Meh. I've broken one.
    Used as an input on an ignitech so don't see why it wouldn't work as ign input
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  5. #16505
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    8th February 2007 - 20:42
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    To use a Hall effect as a trigger input on an Ignitech you have to order it with one input changed to suit this.
    Its done with a pull up resistor already in the circuit.
    I have used this on several 4 cyl car setups with a Hall Effect inside the distributor.

    Re positioning the Ex sensor in EngMod - I have it at position 0 = at the port face most of the time, why and what do you want to see whats happening in the header?
    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  6. #16506
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    23rd September 2014 - 19:35
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    Quote Originally Posted by wobbly View Post
    To use a Hall effect as a trigger input on an Ignitech you have to order it with one input changed to suit this.
    Its done with a pull up resistor already in the circuit.
    I have used this on several 4 cyl car setups with a Hall Effect inside the distributor.
    Ok, thanks!

  7. #16507
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    This Vinamold is great stuff for seeing what I've done wrong.

    1. Oops the boost (which is modified from a reed block entry to a full length case entry) is necked & a bit too steep.

    2. The bottoms of the B's actually go up a bit & in general the surface I've built up is nowhere near smooth

    3. The A's kind of have a angle that's a bit odd as its triangled near the floor to follow the Ex. How (should?) I change that?.



    Small ports are so hard to see in. The bits I could I was happy with. Its going to be hard to get to fix some of this stuff for access.
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    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  8. #16508
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    22nd November 2013 - 16:32
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    Small ports are so hard to see in. The bits I could I was happy with. Its going to be hard to get to fix some of this stuff for access.[/QUOTE]

    What we did a millennium ago was to improve the transfer passages of an ARC 100 cc kart engine. This had passages and ports the same as a Yamaha KT100S, which are miles too big and pointed in the wrong directions. We decided that the passages in a Vortex piston port engine were much better so we took Vinamoldings (or similar sort of stuff) of these. We then roughly hacked the ARC passages so the mouldings would fit and locate in. Then we slathered Devcon into the passages and then squeezed in the mouldings, effectively casting a skin of Devcon to the required internal shape. Worked out pretty well, but there were few (easily filled) pockets though.
    Long story to a suggestion. As the Vinamold can be linished to a reasonable finish (taking care that it doesn't grab by linishing it in a trailing fashion), then you can reshape this to what you may want and repeating the method above. However it might be worth moulding in some string into the port end of the moulding so you can stretch the moulding to make refitting easier.
    But in your case, you might need to increase the size of the moulding. Not sure on this, but you might be able to mould Vinamold onto the original moulding, after digging it out so the additional stuff is keyed into the original. The additional material being linished back to the larger desired shape.
    Nary a guarantee though.
    "Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm.”

  9. #16509
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    27th October 2013 - 08:53
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    This Vinamold is great stuff for seeing

    .
    yep i had a hard time visualizing what the inside of the ports look like. then i put some red vinamold in there and it all became perfectly clear

  10. #16510
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    12th March 2010 - 16:56
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    TT500 F9 Kawasaki EFI
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    Hamilton New Zealand
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    This Vinamold is great stuff for seeing what I've done wrong.

    1. Oops the boost (which is modified from a reed block entry to a full length case entry) is necked & a bit too steep.

    2. The bottoms of the B's actually go up a bit & in general the surface I've built up is nowhere near smooth

    3. The A's kind of have a angle that's a bit odd as its triangled near the floor to follow the Ex. How (should?) I change that?.



    Small ports are so hard to see in. The bits I could I was happy with. Its going to be hard to get to fix some of this stuff for access.
    Well Dave, you have your shapes there, copy them into casting resin, make resin dies from that. Then cast off some fresh ones you can dick with until you have the desired shapes. Not too difficult to make a new barrel from those shapes you end up with. Imagine that your own cylinder without having to touch it with a die grinder and all the port area you want! Modern shapes / angles too.
    Just what you need, more advice. Actually I'm in Wellington this weekend, don't make me come round there and do the job for you!

  11. #16511
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    I'll be home recovering from a hangover on sunday. I'll PM you cell if you want to come up for a beer & a nosy.


    But yeah, that's a project neither of us need.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  12. #16512
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    31st July 2005 - 11:15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flettner View Post
    Well Dave, you have your shapes there, copy them into casting resin, make resin dies from that. Then cast off some fresh ones you can dick with until you have the desired shapes. Not too difficult to make a new barrel from those shapes you end up with. Imagine that your own cylinder without having to touch it with a die grinder and all the port area you want! Modern shapes / angles too.
    Just what you need, more advice. Actually I'm in Wellington this weekend, don't make me come round there and do the job for you!
    Now you have me thinking again... I have some lovely cylinders of special yamaha origin (packed away for my big toy) that could make great templates for my TZR100 all be it reducing bore size by 6mm... Need to borrow me some vinamould.
    Time to get the GPR big boy furnace running and some pattern making.

  13. #16513
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    I can cut you off some if I ever see my PWK back.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  14. #16514
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    2nd July 2013 - 11:52
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    Wink

    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    I can cut you off some if I ever see my PWK back.
    bert gave that to the rubbish tip

  15. #16515
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    I was thinking of resurfacing that RS disc with the flapper wheel if its still lying around. Apparently some pads give that pulsing with certain surfaces.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

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