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Thread: ESE's works engine tuner

  1. #16621
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    Quote Originally Posted by senso View Post
    ...worse case scenario I will do it by hand with sand-paper..
    One big advantage of doing it by hand with sand paper or small files - it's slow, very hard to screw up.

  2. #16622
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    Belt tensioner

    Playing with the belt tensioner.
    Whats better? Both pictures are with the variator in "low gear"

    Click image for larger version. 

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    vs

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    Yeah, pipe is ugly I know...

  3. #16623
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    The first one seems to provide a smaller footprint, less pulley to put your feet into, but I don't think the skate bearings will be up the task, maybe using a belt tensioner from a car might be a better option, from some small 1.1 to 1.5l engine will be compact and have everything included(bearing, rolling surface, eccentric adjuster, spring/hydraulic tensioner) in a ready to mount piece with 2 or 3 bolts, the best part is that you get all that for 30-40€.

  4. #16624
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    Belt tensioner from a car is a good idea, thanks!

  5. #16625
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    Quote Originally Posted by senso View Post
    I was mistaken, the maximum I can go is 22mm from top of cylinder to top edge of the exhaust port, with the stock 91mm con-rod and 41.4mm its just shy off 186º, the transfer all sit at 32.5mm from top, about 124º timing for A and B, being the C a bit lower with around 117-118º.That gives 31º of blow-down, but with limited area.

    I still don't like a lot of the idea of raising the cylinder and machining the top, because I just gain timing in all the ports, so the blow-down remains the same and 1mm will leave the cylinder with almost 130º in the transfers.
    The degrees of blowdown may remain the same but if you are widening the exhaust port, the blowdown STA increases, its the STA (Specific Time Area) that is important.

    The timing of the exhaust port becomes important because of the all important pipe resonance reinforcement you get around 190-194 duration of the pressure waves in the pipe.

  6. #16626
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    30th April 2011 - 04:57
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    variator

    Quote Originally Posted by adegnes View Post
    Playing with the belt tensioner.
    Whats better? Both pictures are with the variator in "low gear"

    Click image for larger version. 

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Size:	261.5 KB 
ID:	308794

    vs

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Yeah, pipe is ugly I know...
    hello, just an obserevation, shouldnt the front pulley be turned the other way so that the rollers push against the sheave to grab the belt, or am i seeing it wrong. yeah seeing it wrong.. rollers still push sheave
    Last edited by breezy; 9th February 2015 at 06:20. Reason: not thinking ....

  7. #16627
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    Quote Originally Posted by breezy View Post
    hello, just an obserevation, shouldnt the front pulley be turned the other way so that the rollers push against the sheave to grab the belt, or am i seeing it wrong.
    It does exactly that, the outer moving sheave is pushed towards the inner stationary sheave by the rollers. It's just mounted inside out compared to most scooters.

  8. #16628
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    Red face

    yeah sorry just edited post... does anyone know the dimention from the center of the front variator shaft( crankshaft) and the clucth wheel shaft on a piaggio zip 50cc 2t.
    Last edited by breezy; 9th February 2015 at 06:26. Reason: relevent cvt question

  9. #16629
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    From the 50cc pics its easy to see that you can get into the waterjacket and firstly bead blast then secondly metal spray the cast iron above the EX.
    This works very well, we have been metal spraying the cast iron bore cylinder tops on KT100 Yamahas for years, then spraying the alloy fins as well to
    get the rule book legal overall cylinder length dimension after machining the base to drop the port timings.
    And its the effective port area you need to use ie is that 600mm2 times the down angle cosine ?
    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  10. #16630
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    2nd March 2013 - 15:04
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    [QUOTE=adegnes;1130828775]Playing with the belt tensioner.
    Whats better? Both pictures are with the variator in "low gear"

    I don't know about variators, but if they were toothed or fixed pulleys, the first option would be the one, since it provides the belt with more wrap-around on each pulley

  11. #16631
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    [QUOTE=lodgernz;1130828838]
    Quote Originally Posted by adegnes View Post
    Playing with the belt tensioner.
    Whats better? Both pictures are with the variator in "low gear"

    I don't know about variators, but if they were toothed or fixed pulleys, the first option would be the one, since it provides the belt with more wrap-around on each pulley
    That makes sense.

  12. #16632
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    [QUOTE=adegnes;1130828842]
    Quote Originally Posted by lodgernz View Post

    That makes sense.
    To a point. But the extra 'drag' is less than desireable, one would think.

    I'd get a shorter belt, and let it tension with the pulleys like it's meant to.

  13. #16633
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    [QUOTE=Drew;1130828853]
    Quote Originally Posted by adegnes View Post

    To a point. But the extra 'drag' is less than desireable, one would think.

    I'd get a shorter belt, and let it tension with the pulleys like it's meant to.
    The drag thing makes sense to.
    It's single variated, originally the whole engine was the tensioner - spring loaded and swinging back when the variation was happening, the rear pulley is just that; a pulley, no moving sheaves.

  14. #16634
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    Quote Originally Posted by breezy View Post
    hello, just an obserevation, shouldnt the front pulley be turned the other way so that the rollers push against the sheave to grab the belt, or am i seeing it wrong. yeah seeing it wrong.. rollers still push sheave
    I would have thought no tensioner was appropriate as the moveable sheave increases and decreases the amount of belt needed as it moves in and out. That is how it works on my Polaris Sportsman 700 twin quad anyway.

    https://www.google.com/search?q=pola...ms%3B480%3B360

  15. #16635
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    2nd March 2013 - 15:04
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    Senso, now that you have cut your CRM50 cylinder, is it possible to measure the thickness of the sides of the exhaust port near the cylinder wall?
    I am wondering how wide we can go at the top of the port before breaking through

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