ESE's works engine tuner

[senso]

I think the squish is indeed done in the cooper sheet, TZ made it that way to pull more heat out of the head, he also has one(or more) heads that where cooper plated/blasted.

[F5 Dave]

So was the ring too tight in bore? If not conclusive I'd be adding some more gas at closed throttle. Looks like a lean seize type of thing when pilot is too small or inlet leak.

[TZ350]

So was the ring too tight in bore? If not conclusive I'd be adding some more gas at closed throttle. Looks like a lean seize type of thing when pilot is too small or inlet leak.

Not sure about the ring gap now, looked good when I took it apart, I think you are probably right about the lean seize as it was definitely getting no fuel at closed throttle.
There is a software switch in Ecotrons where you can turn the fuel off on over run..... and I had to try it just to see what it did, as you do.

[speedpro]

There is a software switch in Ecotrons where you can turn the fuel off on over run..... and I had to try it just to see what it did, as you do.

Pretty cool effect on the twin, when you closed the throttle it went quiet then at whatever revs I'd set the fuel to restart it got noisy again.

[TZ350]

Is your squishband included in the copper gasket? It looks that way...

Yes and extends out to form some large fins.

I think the squish is indeed done in the cooper sheet, TZ made it that way to pull more heat out of the head, he also has one(or more) heads that where cooper plated/blasted.

True, metal sprayed 1.5mm but the polished copper combustion chamber tarnished and became a heat absorber instead of reflector, I tried good quality silicon car polishes, they helped slow down the oxidation but now I find it more practical to have a hybrid arrangement where the squish is copper and the combustion chamber is aluminum. Copper transfers heat twice as fast as aluminum so is worth using if you can. You can use it to pick up heat in the combustion chamber area and transfer it quickly to the outer fins. Unless the motor gets over heated, copper in the squish area remains relatively clean and shiny.

[peewee]

hey guys has anyone had sucess plating a iron liner ? ive heard its possible but never really investigated it much. not sure if nikisil can be used or something else. im looking to do some aluminum sleeves or maybe plate the iron liner if its possible

[Ocean1]

hey guys has anyone had sucess plating a iron liner ? ive heard its possible but never really investigated it much. not sure if nikisil can be used or something else. im looking to do some aluminum sleeves or maybe plate the iron liner if its possible

When I freshened up the 525 I found that the cylinder had been sleeved. There was also a minor trench up one side. I sent it down to NZcylinders and they filled the trench, nicasil plated it and honed it to spec.

Not my preferred fix, (biggest issue is the thermal barrier at the sleeve/cylinder boundary), but with my less than fully demanding riding it's been just fine.

[F5 Dave]

Yes its been a secret for a decade. US chrome Nickle NASCAR engines. I had it done in Aussie first . Lasted 1/2 of one meeting.

The etch kills ally so you have to put in an inflatable and then latex coat. Then etch with evil stuff, then nickel with 4x more current than with ally. 10 years on same bore before performance dropped off.

[TZ350]

I'd be adding some more gas at closed throttle. Looks like a lean seize type of thing when pilot is too small.

You were on the money, I have been dialing in more fuel, heaps more fuel in the area of the Map that if it was a carb it would be the pilot and slide plus the very first bit of the needle.

Comes back on the throttle much better now, hopefully get to ride it tomorrow.

[husaberg]

You were on the money, I have been dialing in more fuel, heaps more fuel in the area of the Map that if it was a carb it would be the pilot and slide plus the very first bit of the needle.

Comes back on the throttle much better now, hopefully get to ride it tomorrow.

Rob did it "hang"at higher revs, before returning to low rpm off throttle?

[TZ350]

Rob did it "hang"at higher revs, before returning to low rpm off throttle?

No, because it ran very well every where with 50% plus TPS. It was easy to get the EFI running in the "main jet" area. But tuning the lower parts of the Map is taking a bit of patience.

It would rev out real hard, shut the throttle and it would not light up again until the revs had dropped below 8 or the throttle was opened past 50%.

I had no idea what a Map should look like or if it was rich or lean until I put the O2 sensor back on it.

Been taking lots of dyno runs at part throttle and comparing them as I make changes to the Map.

[peewee]

Yes its been a secret for a decade. US chrome Nickle NASCAR engines. I had it done in Aussie first . Lasted 1/2 of one meeting.

The etch kills ally so you have to put in an inflatable and then latex coat. Then etch with evil stuff, then nickel with 4x more current than with ally. 10 years on same bore before performance dropped off.

ok so you tried the plating on a iron bore and it worked good ? the uschrome webpage says they can do it. would be far cheaper than having aluminum sleeves made, installed and plated

one other question since im not familiar with the plating process. it doesnt require high heat does it ? what do you meen inflatable and latex coat ?

[Frits Overmars]

Copper transfers heat twice as fast as aluminum

Did you consider silver? Great heat conductor, much better than copper. You know the old saying "Speed costs money; how fast do you want to go? "

has anyone had sucess plating a iron liner ? ive heard its possible but never really investigated it much. not sure if nikisil can be used or something else.

Yes its been a secret for a decade. US chrome Nickle NASCAR engines. I had it done in Aussie first . Lasted 1/2 of one meeting.

Which decade was that?
I raced an aircooled 500 single with a hardchromed cast-iron liner in 1973-1974. It seized about twice a weekend but the chrome still looked like it would last forever.

[TZ350]

Did you consider silver? Or gold? Both great heat conductors, much better than copper. You know the old saying "Speed costs money; how fast do you want to go?

Yes I have, and silver heat transfer paste has its place.



Gold fins, well maybe and if it didn't go fast at least it would have bling bling .....

[seattle smitty]

I'm confused (it's a chronic condition with me). I can't tell who wants to plate what, the inside or the outside of an iron sleeve. The old-timers used to get their bores, or rings, hard chrome-plated, but that was mostly because the aircleaners of the time were nearly useless. Makers of small aircraft cylinders tend to be the experts at plating now, though there's a difference in that their cylinder liners are alloy steel, often nitrided for hardness, even nickel and carbide coated for wear.

What I want to know about is copper or silver-plating the OUTSIDE of iron sleeves. Frits has said he doesn't like iron sleeves, that the differential expansion of aluminum clylinder and iron sleeve leaves gaps, esp. in the vicinity of the exhaust port, and that those gaps tend to accumulate carbon soot, an excellent thermal insulator, which is not whats wanted there. With due deference to Frits, I think there are ways to address that problem starting with a good tight press, and also providing better ways (via more surface area) for the aluminum cylinder to cool. I like iron sleeves. But in the racing outboards I knew long ago, we had cooler coolant available, in unlimited supply, than is the case for bikes and karts.

Back to plating the outside of iron sleeves, Ocean has pointed out my concern, the thermal barrier between sleeve and cylinder. My dumb-welder understanding is that this junction would have some resistance to heat transfer even if you pressed an aluminum sleeve into a tight-fitting aluminum cylinder; in other words, the discontinuity itself is a big issue, not just the lower heat transfer through cast iron. But you do what you can. Ocean, even though my iron sleeve is to be shrink-fitted in place, don't you think a plating of heat-conductive material on the O.D. of the iron sleeve would help move those BTUs along? One advantage might be that if you had to press a sleeve OUT, a copper-plated surface would help enough that you could slightly increase the tightness of the shrink fit . . ???