ESE's works engine tuner

[TZ350]

Thanks Wobbly. I have the 200 ohm stator

A photo of rodg's tacho towards the end of a dyno pull, 15,500 rpm.

rodg reports that usable power was from 9,000 to 14,500 rpm, by my count that is a 5,500 rpm power spread, so who was it, who said that the 85's would be peaky.

[TZ350]

Bit of precision work by Chambers on the RG50's, and, yep that is a NOS cylinder that has never been run.



A loncin after market CDI stator converted to a 12V DC generator for the Ignitec

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Perfo...731580291.html



Plenty of unmasking possible here.



Some more cut and shut required to get the tips of my reed cage closer to the inlet and boost ports.

Reed cage and manifold came from Treatland, great guys to deal with:- http://www.treatland.tv/OKO-26mm-ree...-block-105.htm

[husaberg]

A loncin after market CDI stator converted to a 12V DC generator for the Ignitec

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Perfo...731580291.html

I am posting far to much and doing far to little but I found these as the CR125 ones will get harder to find.
Ktm125-300 seem to have a nice small rotor stator Kokistan with 25 watts or 50 watts aftermarket
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/08-...-do-that.2755/


http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/930...200-flywheels/
http://www.rmstator.com/en_ww/produc...om_store=en_ww
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-KTM-125-...-/221120717793
pretty sure it might be very similar to the Honda cr one
Plus I also found these.

Its an outer rotor from HPI
http://www.hpi.be/210.php
http://www.hpi.be/item.php?item=210K008
https://www.treatland.tv/PUCH-HPI-CD...old-used-2.htm

[Muciek]

Look for ones from Chinese 2T& 4T scooters (magneto and stator cost 15$ in motor store here) they are cheap as chips, they have 6 to 8 coils so around 70-100W. Outside diameter around 100mm

[F5 Dave]

Rob don't make my mistake and get greedy hacking the skirt for inlet space.

[wobbly]

You cant use the old CDI cheater trick with a PVL.
It uses the same coil to charge the capacitor on the N pole magnet ,then triggers the output circuit with the S pole using that same coil.
In the usual systems of old there was a charge coil, and a separate trigger .
If you simply put a small value capacitor across the trigger this would completely change its inductive reactance curve.
In old TZ350s we could set the static at say 4mm, and the cheater trigger mod would pull it back to 1.5mm at 10,000.
The same idea can be used to cheat the ignition timing in some kart classes but I know nothing about any of that.

[190mech]

Wobbly,Could you give us some more details on the small capacitor installation for altering the ignition curve?Although I know you would never do this in the restrictive kart classes,possibly some scooter tuners could put it to good use!
Thank You!

[koba]

A loncin after market CDI stator converted to a 12V DC generator for the Ignitec

Watch out for these, my one failed, that was my issue at Taumaranui, the rotor was moving in relation to the taper.
The taper wasn't slipping, nor were the rivets but it broke between the taper and the part that rivets to the rotor in such a way that it appeared normal until under heavy load, then it would move.

I'm considering a 12v scooter one as I also want to build an engine that can run lights and indicators for my dirtbike.
Or I could go to CR250 or something.
The budget did just get killed though, it will have to wait a while.

Any tips?

[cotswold]

Thanks Wobbly. I have the 200 ohm stator

See attached photos of the result of the weekend's racing. Am thinking last 30 lap race finished in the nick-of-time! Pooh about crack in skirt of barrel.

Attachment 309607Attachment 309608Attachment 309609Attachment 309610

Rod, chuck your 50 cylinder back on and do the F5 GP instead

[F5 Dave]

Rod, chuck your 50 cylinder back on and do the F5 GP instead

A fine idea. A worthy idea.

[F5 Dave]

Watch out for these, my one failed, that was my issue at Taumaranui, the rotor was moving in relation to the taper.
The taper wasn't slipping, nor were the rivets but it broke between the taper and the part that rivets to the rotor in such a way that it appeared normal until under heavy load, then it would move.

I'm considering a 12v scooter one as I also want to build an engine that can run lights and indicators for my dirtbike.
Or I could go to CR250 or something.
The budget did just get killed though, it will have to wait a while.

Any tips?

Koba, chuck your 50 cylinder back on and do the F5 GP instead

Just pre-empting what Cots will say next.

[cotswold]

Just pre-empting what Cots will say next.

Already told Kobe to get that done, I ( hope ) believe it was the sole reason he bought it, plus I beat him in the last F5 GP so he needs redemption.

[wobbly]

Adding a 0.47mfd/200V cap across the trigger will create around 1*/1000 rpm retard.
So with around 6mm static I think it stared at 35* and by 10,000 it had 1.6mm = about 17*from memory
Thus the old pretty much straight line became a crude retarding unit, with extra mid advance for drive, and extra retard over the pipe for overev.

[husaberg]

Wobbly,Could you give us some more details on the small capacitor installation for altering the ignition curve?Although I know you would never do this in the restrictive kart classes,possibly some scooter tuners could put it to good use!
Thank You!

He used to do a roaring trade in them
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/at...2&d=1319412316
http://www.bdkraceeng.co.uk/Bike5.html
http://www.bdkraceeng.co.uk/Bike2.html


last paragraph first page below. keep clicking on it till it is large enough to read
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/at...1&d=1319423423
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/at...2&d=1319423495


I can't remember what the variable capacitors are called but they used to be in radios.....

The Ignitech is the obvious top self bees knees set up, but it may be possible to provide a lower tech solution.
I seem to remember JayCar having a adjustable delay circuit.
http://http://www.jaycar.com.au/images_uploaded/LM555.PDF
http://http://www.ehow.com/how_4827785_build-time-delay-circuit.html

555's are useful little beasts........But to map them would take a set up like wobs...
Post it again Wob
oh I found it once I figured out how to spell vacuum

The 5K plug with no cap resistance and Magnecor 10mm wire works a treat with no RF problems for the Ignitech.
I use Ditex ignition test gear into my laptop.
Here is a video of the twinfire with Crane PS92N enormous cdi coil, on my test rig with CR125 stator/rotor/reg/cap.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pA6kjjEMiaw&feature=plcp

Its a vacuum cleaner motor with a light dimmer rheostat and reverse switch for speed and direction.
Small toothed belt drive so I can use a big degree wheel on one end of the shaft and the ignition on the other to check timing curves..
Shaft slides in and out on eccentric lock bearings to position the rotor correctly.
I have seen nicer rigs using spindle moulder motors, but the old Hoover motors are free.

Here is a pic of cranks for Aprilia 250.
Full circle, full width, plenty of Mallory, high inertia, very low in cycle speed variation, lots of power and overev - why isnt your crank like this??
Also pic of my Ignition rig.
A vacuum cleaner motor with light rheostat, also reversable, has protractor on the other end.
I use a cheap kart rev counter and a strobe.
Doing curves on anything is easy, once its set up.

[koba]

Already told Kobe to get that done, I ( hope ) believe it was the sole reason he bought it, plus I beat him in the last F5 GP so he needs redemption.

You are wrong, you said 'instead' rather than 'as well'.