I used to get Pete Sales of Total Motorcycles in Palmerston North to do it all the time. I probably wouldn't bother now. The KT pistons have a ring peg in the middle of the boost port and no problems, with that anyway.Originally Posted by peewee
Bucket Racer/Crasher
I used to get Pete Sales of Total Motorcycles in Palmerston North to do it all the time. I probably wouldn't bother now. The KT pistons have a ring peg in the middle of the boost port and no problems, with that anyway.
Hardcore Biker
the pistons i have use the peg at the 5 oclock position but i want to relocate it to the 6oclock. i was going to call wiseco and see if they will do it. any other idea who has experience with this ?
Hardcore Biker
Kel has some experience with relocating the ring peg.
Factual Facts are based on real Fact and Universal Truths. Alternative Facts by definition are not based on Truth.
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
Well they aren't cast in there so the manufacturers manage it. Talk to a toolmaker.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Bucket Racer/Crasher
Pete used to tap the original pin into the piston so it didn't interfere with the ring and then drill another hole in the new position and insert a pin he'd retrieved from an old piston. You just have to make a hole with the desired press fit for the pin, OR, do like others do and press it in from on top into a 2nd larger hole below the ring land and bend the end of the pin so it can't come out. Depending on the method you will need to get the right rings.
Forum whore
We have had to do that to MB100 pistons when used in an RG400 cylinder. Never had one fail.
Forum whore
No they're not...
Hardcore Biker
Below are pics of port mouldings of a TM 10B cylinder. These are located and glued on to the steel “bore” mandrel to maintain their correct relationship. Without having looked at lots of cylinders though, they seem to be pretty much the current norm.
So, looking at the B port/passage, it just gets me wondering if the complex twisting of the passage is a product of having to work around the existing crankcase stud spacing pattern. The cylinder entry is strongly influenced by the casting wall thickness surrounding the ring spanner clearance for the cylinder nut. The final entry to the cylinder is in fact almost on the stud centre. Recalling my failed kindergarten skills, I made up a rough passage shape in plasticine (painted blue), with essentially a vertical shape. I know it doesn’t have the exact same leading entry angle, but it is there as an example of an alternative to the current complex shape.
Is it time to review the traditional stud spacing and number thereof?
Funnily enough, if one duplicated the exhaust port plan over the suggested B & the C ports, it would start to look like another scavenging system. Frits, I am sure that this must give you a warm and fossy feeling. NOTE: fossy is probably Kiwi for fuzzy.
"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm.”
Hardcore Biker
who is KEl ? who is pete ? do they have contact info ? problem is im on the other side of the globe but if thats what it takes to get the job done then ill send some pistons over. or better yet maybe they can source the pistons locally and relocate the peg then send them to me. hell i dont know what would be cheaper/easier. it seems doubtful wiseco would be willing to do this procedure but ill call tomorow. other wise i dont know who else to call in the usa.
Kel has some experience with relocating the ring peg.
i asked this question before but i want to ask again and get a clearer answer. has anyone installed roller bearings on the banshee style crankshaft that originally used ballbearings ? im about to pull the trigger on the bearings (all 4 ball bearings will be replaced with roller style) but i need to know exactly which style i need.
i called crankworks to ask which ones i need, because im going to have them do the job but the phone answering guy wasnt much help. he said they use koyos with metal cage, possibly brass, (but didnt offer any more info than that) and then they machine a groove in the circumference of the outer race, presumably for the circlip, then they machine a groove in the center and flywheel side bearing valley of the lower crankcase, so each bearing has a circlip or half a circlip to hold it in place in the lower case half. i was thinking to use skf NJ 305 ECP with polymer cage, but of course they have no groove in the outer circumference. can the rollers and cage be removed without damage, to machine a groove, then reinstalled ?
theres another option but i dont know if its a good choice or not. theres a skf NUP 305 ECNP. which has a outer clip groove already machined but it uses a collar on the inner race. seems like the collar would be of no value in this situation. first pic is NJ305ECP. second pic NUP305ECNP
Anorak
I have already relayed I once ages ago watched my father do it, then again it was part of a repair of an that consisted of him put some welding a ring land and top edge of a piston and re-machine a groove as well.
After I chipped the top of a piston (on a old shitter 197 James Captain on a 215cc oversize) Incidentally likely the worlds loudest James 123db at Levels 1993.
What he did was after drilling a hole with a numbered bit was make up a peg out of a fine brass threaded bolt likely out of a electronic do-dad or something.(he's a world class Hoarder)
No idea if he peened it over or used some locking compound or anything.
He then filed it off flush. This was only done because the piston was unobtainable at the time. I doubt it consists of best practice.
Note Pewee Ken Seebler here manufactures pistons. Pretty sure he could sort you out. For the peg, info at least
He has the post above yours........
There are also plenty of small crowds that do custom pistons.
Bigger operations like would likely not be interested.
I think though Woosner still will do custom stuff to order.
Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
Your location of 'everywhere' no doubt confused a few.
Go take I piston to a toolmaker or some small engineering shop (there must be a gazillion of them hiding in industrial areas) used to working with precise tolerances and look for an older chap with grey hair who looks like they would know about interference fit & wave the piston in front of him. Ideally you retrieve some pins from scrap pistons to use to push into a precise hole. A drill bit end can be used in a pinch.
The redundant one might be able to be tapped in, or carefully ground with a dremel cut off wheel
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Anorak
Dave is of course right but the old chap will have the dirtiest overalls in the workshop and preferably a beard and ill fitting glasses. Also if you go there with some Beer on a Friday afternoon.
Magic can happen.
Never trust someone who is an engineer yet is without a beard.......
Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
i'm a wanker
me at 17 was cutting pins out of old pistons and setting them up in rg50 pistons for my rd50 , never had a promblem , get a old piston and get some practice inDave is of course right but the old chap will have the dirtiest overalls in the workshop and preferably a beard and ill fitting glasses. Also if you go there with some Beer on a Friday afternoon.
Magic can happen.
Never trust someone who is an engineer yet is without a beard.......
Forum whore
The whole question re fitting rollers to a Banshee/RZ style crank all depends upon the primary drive gears.
If using a helical set then you must use a ball on the drive end and this can be replaced by a high capacity, extra ball unit called BL305NRC3.
But if you are going straight cut, then you can use balls in the centre ( HiCap if you feel like it ) and rollers on the outer ends.
These are NJ305EWC3 with the step on the inner race facing the web.
Both these bearings have a clip groove.
There is NO advantage to using rollers on the inners, all the loads are on the drive end from the gear force pushing the shafts apart , and on the
ignition end from the flywheel trying to rip the crank snout off due to precession.
If you fit a roller on the ignition end you will need to cut a groove in the bottom case, as the crank can float left and right, and the inner bearings
only have O rings in the outer races that dont prevent sideways movement.
You could if really keen put rollers in the middle, and set up the outer race positions so that the crank floats 0.3mm in the case, but again as I said
this then would need another groove cut on the ignition side for retention in both directions.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
Hardcore Biker
thnx for the help on the ring pegs. i sent some pm's so hopefully i can get it sorted out.
about the bearing question. anybody transformed one of the inline twin cranks with ballbearings to all roller bearings ? wobbly mentioned something about it a while back but i dont recall any mention of the style of bearing, other than it was a roller. im new to all this and havent personally seen a ballbearing crank turned into a roller bearing crank. whats throwing me off is the machining of the groove on the outer circumference. i realize the groove is so the clip will hold the bearing from sliding around but i didnt know the rollers and cage could be removed to machine the groove.
looks like i was posting this at the same time as you wobbly. LOL. anyways ya ill be using straight cut primary gears. i have to pull the crank completely apart anyways, the center ball bearings are the cheapest shit from taiwan, i dont trust them as far as i can throw em. so may as well use rollers there also, the case will have grooves cut for all 4 bearings. NJ305EW c3, ok ill look into them. thnx for the help
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