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Thread: ESE's works engine tuner

  1. #1801
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    4th January 2009 - 21:08
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    Could we consider the crankcase volume to be like a spring then the more cranckcase volume the softer the spring, you still end up pumping the same (give or take) volume , just the delivery characteristic changes. This seems to make the whole port time thing make some more sense.

  2. #1802
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    18th October 2007 - 08:20
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    It comes back to the "pumping loss" concept again (as well as delivery ratios). I'm unsure what mixture strength problems TeeZee's concept will encounter, but like F5dave I have seen plenty of 2 strokes with massively long radiator hoses for inlet manifolds/plenums, and they worked fine....... I personally don't know of anyone who went to the effort of measuring the resonant frequency though, so that has to be advantage for heading in the right direction, and getting maximum and minimum values for intake volumes etc.
    And (hopefully) the engine will make more power!

  3. #1803
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    18th May 2007 - 20:23
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    “Save the stuffing around and go buy one of these digital, programmable ignitions http://www.ignitech.cz/english/aindex.htm originally posted by K14 ”

    We have taken K14’s advice and purchased a digital/programable DC-CDIP 2 Race 2-Stroke IgniTech ignition.

    “This is about the latest RACE Ignitech and our ignition systems: http://www.twostrokeshop.com/ignitech_race.htm

    Here is an article showing how to modify the RZ hardware to allow use of the Ignitech twin cdi module, eliminating the wasted spark system and giving full control over all electronic functions. http://www.twostrokeshop.com/ignitech.htm “.

    The setup info was found on the Two-Stroke Shop www.twostrokeshop.com site.

    There are also units for 4-Stroke, they can be purchased from The Two-Stroke Shop or directly from IgniTech. http://www.ignitech.cz/english/aindex.htm

    .

  4. #1804
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    31st July 2005 - 11:15
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    Looks like a good option.
    Did you buy them through Wayne or did you get them directly from ignitech??
    What was the final ball park cost to get them here?

    Also what do they come with, CDI & software, Hall effect sensor as well?

  5. #1805
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    18th May 2007 - 20:23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bert View Post
    Looks like a good option.
    Did you buy them through Wayne or did you get them directly from ignitech??
    What was the final ball park cost to get them here?

    Also what do they come with, CDI & software, Hall effect sensor as well?
    We got the DC-CDIP 2 Race ignitions directly from IgniTech before Xmas, we didn't know Wayne www.twostrokeshop.com sold them until just now. We got every thing, cdi unit, software, pre-wired plugs coil, trigger, roter and connectors, about $470 NZ a unit.

    Unless you speak Chec, IgniTech can't realy help you with setup advice, Wayne is more expensive but he offers invaluable after sales service, its worth considering buying from him just for the after sales support.

    .
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  6. #1806
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    12th February 2004 - 10:29
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    I added a tube to my AC50 intake and put the carb on the end. I played with length and diameter. It was interesting how it resonated at various revs and throttle settings. One setup resonated just off idle and the motor really grunted. all the setups i tried were good at one rev or another but all had big holes where they didn't work. i suppose you could tune it to work right at the revs you want, but at the time I couldn't see the advantages outweighing the disadvantages.

    When it was resonating it was very loud, way louder than the pipe. Being as advanced and ahead of the times as I was the pipe was an up and over type, exiting under the seat with a titanium muffler. high pipes are so decade before last.

  7. #1807
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    But you have to run a battery with all that Malarky yeah? Do they have a charging cct? I have a Zeeltronics on my RZ500 & it is touchy if the battery voltage sags as often seems to with tiny batteries & it won't start as not enough juice to fire up the electronics.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  8. #1808
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    18th May 2007 - 20:23
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    But you have to run a battery with all that Malarky yeah? Do they have a charging cct? I have a Zeeltronics on my RZ500 & it is touchy if the battery voltage sags as often seems to with tiny batteries & it won't start as not enough juice to fire up the electronics.
    Yes, have to run a battery, I don't like that aspect, I can see some tears before bedtime with the total loss system. I will get it going as is first then look at a charging system. Need to get it going first so I can check the current draw.

    You might remember selling me a KX80 ignition with a trigger coil on the outside of the stator plate. I figure I can fit some re-wound coils in place of the internal High Voltage one and keep a small battery charged with them.

    .
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  9. #1809
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    Yeah it can be a real pain, I've always tried to avoid a battery on a racebike as I'm likely to either;
    A) forget to flick a switch & Discharge battery/overheat engine in use if a pump
    B) find the battery has gone down in between races (crazy that bigger batteries can last months & still start a bike on the button which takes huge power, yet a brand new small battery disconnected, doing nothing loses volts in a week), or
    C) forget to turn up with the battery having put it on charge the night before.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  10. #1810
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    12th February 2004 - 10:29
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    Yes, but needing a 14.4V battery is a really good excuse to buy a cordless drill with two Lithium Ion batteries and a fast charger. Those Lithium batteries will supply the peak current needed when the coil is charging and have decent energy density as well. Plus the price is right and you get a drill with them.

  11. #1811
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    17th February 2008 - 17:10
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    Quote Originally Posted by speedpro View Post
    Yes, but needing a 14.4V battery is a really good excuse to buy a cordless drill with two Lithium Ion batteries and a fast charger. Those Lithium batteries will supply the peak current needed when the coil is charging and have decent energy density as well. Plus the price is right and you get a drill with them.
    is the drill for knee caping the other riders
    or core sampling the tank ??
    "Instructions are just the manufacturers opinion on how to install it" Tim Taylor of "Tool Time"
    “Saying what we think gives us a wider conversational range than saying what we know.” - Cullen Hightower

  12. #1812
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    18th May 2007 - 20:23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buckets4Me View Post
    or core sampling the tank ??
    core sampling the tank........very funny

  13. #1813
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    18th May 2007 - 20:23
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    Yeah it can be a real pain, I've always tried to avoid a battery on a racebike.
    Thats the thing I liked about the JayCar kitset programable ignition, it got its HV from the original KX80 charging coils and a little voltage could be blead off to run the PIC controller, you could set it up to run without a battery.

    The IgniTech is different it converts the batterys 12V DC with an inverter to the high voltage required for the CDI and runs the controller from the same 12V battery.

    At idle the IgniTech consumes 85mA, at 12V DC. I now have spark in more or less the right place, but have not run the bike yet to see what the current draw is with the CDI being continusly recharged, but I expect I could make a small generator/rectifier unit that would be able to supply the ignition system Ok.

    .

  14. #1814
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    4th January 2009 - 21:08
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    Quote Originally Posted by TZ350 View Post
    Thats the thing I liked about the JayCar kitset programable ignition, it got its HV from the original KX80 charging coils and a little voltage could be blead off to run the PIC controller, you could set it up to run without a battery.

    The IgniTech is different it converts the batterys 12V DC with an inverter to the high voltage required for the CDI and runs the controller from the same 12V battery.

    At idle the IgniTech consumes 85mA, 12V DC. I have spark in more or less the right place, but not yet run the bike to see what the current draw is with the CDI being continusly recharged, but I expect I could make a small generator/rectifier unit that would be able to supply the ignition system Ok.

    .
    could always power it with a little Ram Air Turbine (RAT) the Skyhawks used to have them for emergengy power, you would have to run on battery till the race started then switch over to the RAT. Somehow you could incorporate it into the copper finning and carb plenum system to make this idea really fly !

  15. #1815
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    18th May 2007 - 20:23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yow Ling View Post
    could always power it with a little Ram Air Turbine (RAT) the Skyhawks used to have them for emergengy power, you would have to run on battery till the race started then switch over to the RAT. Somehow you could incorporate it into the copper finning and carb plenum system to make this idea really fly !
    Ok so what happens when I slow down for corners.............

    will I have to blow into the RAT untill I get up to speed again?

    and would that be known as, having to kiss the Rats arse.........

    .

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