ESE's works engine tuner

[m4r]

that the German version was not exactly faultless either. An hour wasted; what a start of my Saturday.

sorry Frits so you mean the idea didn't even work in the first place? which would explain why I couldn't find any engine built like this...

[breezy]

Which reminds me of an antiquarian's convention. One of them had brought a vase and everybody started guessing about its origin. Some suggested Greek, others Mesopotamian or Etruscan, until one of them took a look under the bottom and read "Made in Birmingham". Whereupon all reacted: "That old?"

... yeah but ...old but gold...

[Frits Overmars]

so you mean the idea didn't even work in the first place? which would explain why I couldn't find any engine built like this...

Most patents don't substantiate their claims; most patented engines are never even built.

[breezy]

Most patents don't substantiate their claims; most patented engines are never even built.

well, having looked through the patents for variable length


t



conrods , it makes you think, is their a new version which isnt coverd by an existing idea.....

[lodgernz]

Wobbly, can I ask your advice please.
You'll remember that senso posted photos of his CRM50 cylinder that he cut up to see how close the water jacket was to the ports (see photo).
I also have one of these engines, which I've started modifying.
Upon measuring the exhaust port, I find that the narrow bit you see in the photo has an area only 73% of the standard port area. Obviously that will be worse when I increase the port area.
I plan to make an insert to reduce the flange area as you suggested to senso.

My question is: Should I try and make this restriction equal in area to the port, or could I begin the 90% area from this point out to the flange?

[wobbly]

My immediate question is to establish if the restriction is 73% of the EFFECTIVE port area ie The measured port area X the Cosine of the down angle.
And subsequently the answer is that the duct should be as smoothly transitioned down to 90% at the exit as is possible.

[lodgernz]

My immediate question is to establish if the restriction is 73% of the EFFECTIVE port area ie The measured port area X the Cosine of the down angle.
And subsequently the answer is that the duct should be as smoothly transitioned down to 90% at the exit as is possible.

Yes that 73% is using the cos of the port down angle of 23*.
So I read it that I need to make that restriction maybe 96% of port area and then an insert to continue it down to 90% at the flange?
Thanks for your help Wobbly.

[richban]

I hope you have only thinned the friction surface of the steel plates and not the fingers(?) that engage with the clutch hub. Typically you can lose a bit off the friction surface of the clutch parts that clamp the plates together. The idea being that the finished clutch assembly with the extra "pair" of plates has the exact same assembled height as the original. You need to add an extra steel and an extra fibre to make an improvement. The trick is machining everything dead true with no chattering. Not easy for a beginner on a lathe.

No thinning, no lathes. We will have Laser cut new ones. They are the same as Honda RS250, 2mm steels. Ali is an option as well.

[Neal]

No thinning, no lathes. We will have Laser cut new ones. They are the same as Honda RS250, 2mm steels. Ali is an option as well.

Rich ,

Have you looked at using other primary gear ratios ? I have been using the mc28 combination .
My next mod is to get straight cut primaries with the f3 ratios .

I have ally plates to use but have not tested them yet .

[wobbly]

You cant use ally plates in a dry clutch - they warp instantly from heat stress.

[lodgernz]

One last question please Wobbly. The insert I make for the cast-iron CRM50 cylinder: Can it be just mild steel? Is Aluminium alloy an option?
If neither is good, can you advise what is?
Sorry, that's 4 questions. Never could count...

[Neal]

You cant use ally plates in a dry clutch - they warp instantly from heat stress.

Even these ones ? http://www.thetuningworks.co.uk/stor...oducts_id=1159

[richban]

You cant use ally plates in a dry clutch - they warp instantly from heat stress.

I know they don't last long but plenty for sale for the rs250's

[richban]

Rich ,

Have you looked at using other primary gear ratios ? I have been using the mc28 combination .
My next mod is to get straight cut primaries with the f3 ratios .

I have ally plates to use but have not tested them yet .

Nah not going to go that far. The bike is way fast how it is.

[wobbly]

Yea, well as the advert says Standard VJ22 clutch. not SP or F3 ie they are for an oil bath.
I have tried Hinson cryo'd plates for Banshee in a TZ350 and they were fucked the first hard start thrashing they got.

Re the insert of the Ex duct - make it in ally and give it a real heavy press fit to help the heat transfer path