ESE's works engine tuner

[Muciek]

Use the softest carbons you can.
Make a " rev plate " from the old reed 0.5mm material ie a strip say 6mm wide, this sits on top of the carbon under the screws.
Then take the original thin fibre reeds, cut them to 1/2 length then cut them to make 3 pointed hats,these are backups that sit on top of the 0.5mm spacer.
Next take the old radius plate and cut it to 1/3 its original length,this sits on top of the backups with the screws going thru all 4 elements.
Best reed setup known to man.
The backups are tapered from full width at the clamp, to a point with a small rad on the end.
These pointed backup plates are 1/2 the reed petal length.
I have tested several full width petal plates, and some made better power - I believe due to the fact they were slightly stiffer than the original petals
and this is what was needed.
Yes, but I think the 0.5mm material from the original reed is too thick to use as a backup.

Those are Wobbly posts combined into one about this idea


Here are a pictures related to this

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=286633&d=1376961178
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=286727&d=1377310333
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=286632&d=1376959399

[husaberg]

Those are Wobbly posts combined into one about this idea


Here are a pictures related to this

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=286633&d=1376961178
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=286727&d=1377310333
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=286632&d=1376959399

Buggered if I know what you did there Muciek

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/at...3&d=1376961178
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/at...7&d=1377310333
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/at...2&d=1376959399

[seattle smitty]

To anyone, why do Frits' .pnf attachments take forever to load? They take so long that I never have the patience to wait them out. Any way I can speed this up?

The US has been trying to change to the metric sytem since 1893 . . .

No, SOME un-American fools, having been talked into believing the claims of certain socialist pinko bedwetter Europeans that their measurement system is inherently superior, have been messing with our perfectly good system. Why is a decimal system of measurement better than a fractional one that's easily divides into 12, 64, and 360, evenly. Sometimes decimals are more useful, sometimes fractions are, neither is superior all the time. This same bunch of fools convinced automakers that sideways-mounted engines and transaxles with CV joints that soon have an inch (an INCH, dammit!) of accumulated lash is the way to go. Try to swing a wrench in one of these miserable vehicles!! Good old American cars had the engine here, the transmission there, and the differential back there, so you could work on any of them relatively easily.

Metric system, aargh! I learned to work with it fifty years ago when I raced German Konig outboards, but still don't see a reason we should change. Y'all can change!!

[Frits Overmars]

I could say a lot about it Smitty, but I won't; American car manufacturers have it tough enough as it is, fighting a loosing battle against the German and Japanese metric level of quality. I have just one question: why did a redbloodyblooded American like yourself race German König outboards, eh? What was wrong with Johnson, Mercury, Evinrude?
Before I forget (to be honest I am usually trying to forget it): I once owned a true American car: a Dodge. Never again!
It gave a whole new meaning to the expression "get the hell out of Dodge".

[F5 Dave]

. . . Why is a decimal system of measurement better than a fractional one that's easily divides into 12, 64, and 360, evenly. . . !

Yeah `cause that's what I want to do Every time I pick up a socket. Maths. So I can work out if a 1/5th is bigger or smaller than a 12/73rd.

Oh yeah you use IE as a browser and its a dog for images.

[Tim Ey]

Yeah `cause that's what I want to do Every time I pick up a socket. Maths. So I can work out if a 1/5th is bigger or smaller than a 12/73rd.

Oh yeah you use IE as a browser and its a dog for images.

Also quite funny when it comes to really small measurements like piston-clearance : 0,05mm equals 0.0019685".

Thanks a lot Muciek and husa

[Flettner]

We make rotorheads (autogyro) for the US market, all inch measurments and bolts but rotorhead main bearing is metric. Bit of a bugger when all the engine parts and gearboxes we make are metric, also for the US market, Just how it is. Another example, prop flange PCD is 4" but bolts that fit the drive lugs (on the 4" PCD) are 8mm with lugs being 13mm???

[wobbly]

Yes, rev plates are a term used for a spacer between the main petal and the backup reed ie just a packer plate.
The thickness of this spacer and the backup modify the resonant frequency of the main reed, but more importantly allows the use of very soft reeds
that would normally flutter all over the place like a mad womans shit at the wrong time.
Thus they open quickly, then as the lift increases the tension gradually increases as well.
In the CR125 example I gave the main petals were different top to bottom, to rebias the vertical flow anomaly, but also the backups
were biased in length left/right to rebias the sideways flow angle anomaly.
On the flow bench pulling 60Cfm, the velocity thru all the 6 ports was the same.

[ken seeber]

:
Before I forget (to be honest I am usually trying to forget it): I once owned a true American car: a Dodge. Never again!
It gave a whole new meaning to the expression "get the hell out of Dodge".

My grandma used to say:
"If you can't afford a Dodge, dodge a Ford"
FOS over. Saw the V8 Moto Guzzi, but it was out of action, so no sound. Saw a Trabant though, but it was also stationary.

[F5 Dave]

One of the funniest car stories was in a mate's lockup (it was huge) he shared with a chap Matt who owned among other things a dirty big A'mercan car, was some collectors item & supposed to be aerodynamic which means they extended the heck out of it and it was called the Roadrunner I think, had a picture of the cartoon on it. No WileeCoyote though. [did a google, maybe it was a superbird roadrunner)
But the amusing thing was under the bonnet there was a big horn & the adjusting screw was some strange arrangement so they actually had a label.
"Do not lose this screw" something about "you won't find another" or words to that effect.

It was metric. Hilarimouse.

[TZ350]

Page ....... 1220

Can you use any of the commercially available air-fuel O2 meters with crankcase-lubricated 2-stroke race motors, or does the lube confuse (and foul) the sensor too quickly? I just got one of these (from Innovate) to dial-in automotive engines.

Attachment 313564
Provided that you don't mount it too close to the cylinder, where it would be hit by washed-through unburnt mixture (between the cylinder and the sensor there should be room in the header for at least once the cylinder capacity), that you use only unleaded fuel, and that you switch on the sensor's internal heating element and bring it up to working (=self-cleaning) temperature before starting the engine.

As Frits has alluded to you can use a Lambda in a 2T.
I have been using one for ages on the dyno that screws into a fitting on the front of a muffler cap.
It must be pre heated before use and will be killed quickly by lead, or being covered in oil as when warming up or running in slowly.
But at the end of the day an egt will tell you all you need to know about whats going on, including things the A/F ignores like deto onset.

You simply cant use any info from 4T sources and try to translate this to a 2T scenario.
A 4T can easily be rpm limited by materials technology, but this has been helped a lot in recent times by the short strokes NEEDED to allow a big bore to fit in
the huge valve area requirement for the power predicted.

A 2T is much more limited by the bore size and the area that can be fitted into that specific circumference,and THEN becomes limited by the mechanical issues of exceeding the 26M/Sec
that has become the currently accepted allowable max mean speed.

There appears to be NO reason at all to not run a long rod, well above 2:1 ratio, as its been proven that the tradeoffs between friction/case vol/angle area are
biased in favour of the longer version.

Aprilia did it for years, then Honda decided they agreed and went longer on the final champ winning RS250 going from 105 to 109.
The other issue is that there "could" possibly be an argument that a slightly undersquare engine might ultimately prove to be superior to the current accepted practice
of "square is best".

This has been playing on my mind, I couldn't reconcile what I had read about not removing the step in the exhaust duct. Why would the A kit not have the step if it's supposed to reduce power. Clearly I don't properly understand the function of the step.
Attachment 313615Attachment 313616

So no steps at the flange is better, so why does the NX4 RS125 lose power when the steps are cut out? Is this a function of the duct entry to exit ratio changing?

Cutting the steps out increases the duct volume, which is bad. Filling in the steps until there is a smooth transition to the header is good.

Removing the step in the old Honda engine makes its duct a bit like the IAME shown a few pages back.
The duct looses all its velocity well before it approaches the header - exactly the opposite to what is needed, so of course it looses power.
Fill in the spigot shape on any 3 port or T port Honda and power goes up - proven time and time again.

The trend has been to progressively reduce the duct volume, and at Aprilia this was started up at the port by lifting the floor and then filling
in the bottom corner radi, both reducing A port short circuiting as well as increasing blowdown velocity.
Later as Frits has said the exit area was progressively reduced as the floor and roof were machined closer to the center line thus reducing total volume again in the duct.
But we have never seen an Aprilia picture with this late version duct, so also cant tell if the flange entry was modified as well to eliminate the steps.
IF it was done that way then I can guarantee that it made better power.
Honda did this for years on the A Kit and RS250 factory bikes with a nice cast piece that transitioned from the very flattened oval to the round header diameter.

As I have said before, I developed a new T port cylinder that started with a 40 by 35 oval, with steps, and this evolved into a 41 by 32 oval with no steps and the power
increased with both the smaller exit area and the new CNC transition piece.

Then look at a new design like the TM KZ10B, this has a quite small exit area with small steps, modify this by welding the spigot to match the cylinder, then grind the Aux
ducts all the way from big 1/2 moons at the flange face ,tapering smoothly down to nothing at the header and it pics up a couple of Hp at peak,but revs on with something like 6Hp more at 14,000.

What is better?Step between exhaust duct and exhaust pipe or not? And if the exhaust duct exit is round like a lot of production motorcycles should be a step also there?
And one more,i'm sure mr Jan Thiel have already try this but I have to ask .You said that Aprilia couldn't make max power with more than 13000rpm because of the insufficient blowdown angle-area.What would be the results if the exhaust port was raised into 204* or the B&C tranfer ports were lowered into 130*?Loss of power maybe? Cheers!!

So here it is as simple as can it be made - NO STEP IS BEST - but this does NOT mean grind the duct to make it round OR bigger in any way.
If its a 3 port or a T port, then the duct exit should be around 75% of the total effective Ex area, then the spigot should transition to 100% round diameter.
If its a single port, the duct should be around 90% exit area, with no step and the header the same diameter if its round.
If you have a really dumb 3 port or T port with a round exit, THEN CHANGE IT.

Re the angle area of the RSA.
The answer is all to do with finely balancing all the variables to optimize the end result.
Do you REALLY think that if going to 204* was actually better then why the hell wouldnt Jan do exactly that.
We have had the same question on here about the pipe dimensions,why not simply make it shorter and fatter, well if that was better
do you really think that it would not have been done.
I have been running thru pipe designs for a 250 KTM for a road racing kart, and discovered in the sim that going over 132mm belly diameter makes
NO MORE power.
Aprilia under Jan would have actually thought about this and built the pipe - I dont need to waste my time, its called diminishing returns, proven easily now
by a major step forward in computing ability.

Attached is the pathetic dyno result for my Honda 50 that I used to think ran really well..
I'd appreciate any ideas as to why the curve is such a strange shape.
The engine is stock except for small Boyesen ports and 2-stage Boyesen reeds.
I wondered if this could be reed flutter. The exhaust is the standard muffler with the guts ripped out.
Apologies for the quality of the screenshot.

Attachment 313625

To have 3 peaks there has to be serious interaction of a couple of elements that are not even remotely matched to make power
in the same bandwidth. The Boyesens are rubbish anyway so dump them to start with, but i would suspect the pipe is out of sync with the port as well as the ignition curve.

The cylinder pressure at exhaust opening can be as high as 7 bar.

[TZ350]

Team ESE have been busy working on developing our RG50's.

Currently our RG's are about 13-14 rwhp so this picture of a 50cc AM6 converted to RV and pumper carb making 17 rwhp is very interesting, hope to be there ourselves soon(ish).

[Grumph]

One of the funniest car stories was in a mate's lockup (it was huge) he shared with a chap Matt who owned among other things a dirty big A'mercan car, was some collectors item & supposed to be aerodynamic which means they extended the heck out of it and it was called the Roadrunner I think, had a picture of the cartoon on it. No WileeCoyote though. [did a google, maybe it was a superbird roadrunner)
But the amusing thing was under the bonnet there was a big horn & the adjusting screw was some strange arrangement so they actually had a label.
"Do not lose this screw" something about "you won't find another" or words to that effect.

It was metric. Hilarimouse.

That would have been Matt Gibbons. Owned two of the huge things at one point I believe...Ex bike racer, mate and teammate of Dale Wylie. Only rider i've ever come across who rode on track by braille - riding against him, you always lost paint.

[Larry Wiechman]

Frits, if you look up the word "dodge' in the dictionary the definition is "to avoid".

[F5 Dave]

yeah that's right. Said he had a 750 triple he was going to restore but never saw that. Bit of a character but seemed a good guy.