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Thread: ESE's works engine tuner

  1. #19036
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    Page 1270 ..... links list to go here

    Seattle Smitty started a how to thread, its worth a visit if you are trying to trawl the ESE thread.

    Quote Originally Posted by seattle smitty View Post
    How to search within the ESE thread or any Thread for that matter.
    Dyno testing of the Fuel Injected Kawasaki F81M two stroke and Yamaha YZ125 http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...-tuner/page870


    Pages 500 and 1000 have extensive links to other interesting and informative posts.

    Page 500 ........ http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...-tuner/page500

    Page 1000 ...... http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...tuner/page1000

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    Blowdown is Everything .......

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    Part throttle detonation and seizure can be an issue with insufficient BlowDown. TZ350's post has Links to Frits and Jan's take on it.

    Quote Originally Posted by TZ350 View Post
    Page 600 B Part throttle detonation

    Exhaust Port shape for ring life.


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    Husaburgs post is worth a visit as it has extensive links to transfer port theory.

    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post
    Transfer Port theory ... Click image for larger version. 

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    Frits pipe design.

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    Quote Originally Posted by richban View Post
    So I have one of the very well made ignitech shifter switches. Now I am faced with the choice of ignition cut or Advance reduction in the ignitech settings. I have been told that advance cut is kinder on the gearbox?

    Any views from people using this system would be most welcome. Its on the 300 so a touch over 80hp running through what seam like a great street gearbox. Cheers RB.
    Quote Originally Posted by wobbly View Post
    Rich, the Ignitech ignition cut works perfectly as long as the sensor is really well mounted such that it works identically every shift.

    I use a 12V NPN proximity sensor that pulls the input to ground when it sees the head of a pinch bolt on the shaft going into the gearbox.
    Set it up so it triggers just as the shift drum starts to actually move, use 40mS cut with 250mS recover time.

    You can tell instantly if the shift cut is too long, in that the riders head will jolt forward, as the engine effectively stops.

    If its too short, it will be super hard to actually push the lever into the next gear.
    I have tried pulling out advance but it seems to work OK in 5th and 6th, but not in 2nd 3rd where you need more time/cut due to the bigger rev drop.

    Running speedshift rounds the drive dogs leading edges quickly no matter how its done, and you will get it jumping out of gear if its not undercut.
    Boss in Wanganui do a great job, for bugger all.
    Quote Originally Posted by wobbly View Post
    As Frits has explained several times the ideal crank has smooth faces with no pockets or cutaways, so this generally means full circle wheels.

    It then also has to be able to provide the correct balance factor for the reciprocating assembly.
    So a lot of each web can be bored all over the place and filled with alloy/plasic, and any extra correction for balance then achieved with Mallory.
    Quote Originally Posted by wobbly View Post
    The CRF250 has a stroke of 53.8 and revs to around 17K so yes the plain bearing pressure oiled crank is reliable at those rpm exactly as I would expect.

    But the Ryger concept has the same stoke near enough, and we believe its a plain bearing "mechanism " of some sort, but yes ITS reliable at 30,000 rpm we have been told. Not even remotely the same ballpark.
    A lot of links about the Ryger engine in Husaburgs post.

    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post
    Whoops Wob i indeed missed where Frits said it revved to 30000 when he drove it. but i have bolded it and the 54ms.
    Quote Originally Posted by ken seeber View Post
    Ringless pistons. Of course rings add friction, but the trade-off is that they also provide the proportional sealing of pressures, up to around 90 bar (1300 - 1400 psi) at all sorts of rubbing speeds and high temperatures, not a trivial task. Should they fail, as we’ve all seen with a stuck ring; blowby, loss of lubrication and death.

    In a small engine, say a glow plug, one seemingly can get away with it, mainly due to viscous sealing because of the typically 20% oil quantity in methanol &/or nitro fuels, and possibly lower overall temperatures inherent in small engines due to the surface area to volume ratio effect providing a much greater heat transfer rate, at the expense of inherent lower overall thermal efficiencies.

    Another thing that has been demonstrated, is that the crevice volume, formed between the bore and the top land above the ring, can result in trapped mixture, leading to unburnt HC emissions. This is why rings have been become higher up the piston. This is not so critical in a stratified charge running condition where, hopefully, only air or burnt gases enter and leave the crevice volume.

    I am personally of the belief that a large percentage of the heat from the piston is transferred via the ring and rubbing contact of the ring land (the hottest part of the piston) against the bore. This effect is greatest at the TDC and BDC, where the piston land and ring area have the greatest residency time over the cycle. It is for this reason that cooling of the cylinder is best directed at the very top and also adjacent to the BDC area, usually within the transfer passage cup handles.

    If Harry is chucking out all that extra power, relative to current levels, then he will have to provide great attention to the piston cooling, does he have a piston?

    As to bearing life, things are going to get tough. 100cc rotary / reeds used to rev to 21k, but there were issues.
    Sometimes big ends, but with the older vertical reeds aiming between the crankwebs, the big end got much better cooling and lubrication that the now current horizontal reed blocks.

    Mostly though, it was piston failure, leading to a rod, then unconstrained, scything its way through the crankcases, ignoring all the M6 screws on its way. A 90 mm rod, over the standard VM rod of 110 mm, is going to place more side thrust load on the piston boss area.

    Maybe if it is a wet sump, using the Honda aerated oil lubrication system and retaining the roller bearings, then this could help, bearing in mind that, with the 25 mm spacer plate, the crank/big end will be more remote from the heat source. If it uses plain bearings, then this pretty much implies some sort of high oil pressure system. Maybe there is no big end at all, but some other clever gizmo.

    Back to the piston or whatever it is that goes up and down, it will have to be strong to take 30k, but maybe its motion and forces were opposed or dampened, then strength might not be so paramount.
    Many a maybe.

    He might have done all this and the thing is a real goer with all the claims we have seen. Good on him if this is the case and maybe the world will be a better place. It will inevitably mean change and change means winners and losers. That’s life.

    But the good thing is that no matter what improvements have been made, things can always be improved. That’s what you bucketeers are all about.
    Quote Originally Posted by twotempi View Post
    If only the ring is in contact with the bore, will the cylinder wall need any coating? Cast from high silicon alloy, no coating, best heat transfer yet.

    I think that Mercedes have a system for coating alloy cylinders that uses a paste that is forced into/unto the cylinder walls with an expanding roller arrangement.

    Might not work with two-stroke cylinders with multiple ports though.

    Does anyone have any info on this ??

  2. #19037
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    Quote Originally Posted by twotempi View Post
    If only the ring is in contact with the bore, will the cylinder wall need any coating? Cast from high silicon alloy, no coating, best heat transfer yet.

    I think that Mercedes have a system for coating alloy cylinders that uses a paste that is forced into/unto the cylinder walls with an expanding roller arrangement.

    Might not work with two-stroke cylinders with multiple ports though.

    Does anyone have any info on this ??
    You talking about ALUSIL? Here is a video of guy doing "reconditioning"
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ek5qv8Nmg0

    Here are pictures of sleeves from Polish shop that repairs engines with those kind of bores

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    "The process of regeneration of damaged cylinders is very complicated. The hardest part is to "pull out" crystals of silicon to the top of the sleeve. Thanks to unique technology and machine, Sunnen Sv-10, we restore the factory parameters of the cylinder"

    I think probably its possible to buy a raw sleeve like that (for bigger bores) but then we have to press this in so there is still a transfer heat barrier. Buying a appropriate weight piece for casting new cylinder might be impossible I think.

  3. #19038
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    Peewee as I keep saying all will be revealed in EngMod.
    The Boyesesn port size will depend upon the geometry of the ports in the piston, and the STA this generates.
    For example in the CPI cylinder I have used to build 400cc road racing bike engines based on RZ350/Banshee the big ports in the
    Blaster style pistons and huge Boyesen slots are capable of around 60 CHp/cylinder.
    As soon as you try to go higher power than this it would need another floor port as there is no room for bigger piston cutouts or bigger Boyesens.
    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  4. #19039
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    RS125 fork help please

    Hello, posted this in another thread. Any help most appreciated. Thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by kel View Post
    Can someone please save me from my ignorance here. I want to change the springs in my 93 RS125 forks. The manual (which shows a different fork setup ) says to "remove the spring sheet, then slowly pull out the spring". How is this done with out breaking down the damper rod setup? i.e. The spring does not fit over the top of the damper rod.
    The forks have preload and compression adjustments on the fork tops, not sure but I think this not original (the adjusters are anodised blue and gold).
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  5. #19040
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    wob i always figured piston windows were best suited for cylinders with no boyesen ports but if theres something to be gained then i could cut in sqaure or rectangle windows. as of now it has a half circle window at the bottom skirt. adding windows doesnt seem to change anything on the STA page, so would i run the sim to see the results of said windows ? and where would i be looking for any changes, CeFF ?

  6. #19041
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    Frits, may we ask, when Ryger first set out on this new engine design were they focussed on the oil less aspect first and the power gain was a surprise extra?

  7. #19042
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    Yes , if you are intake limited due to the piston and boyesen effective areas, then adding or subtracting cutouts in the piston
    affects power dramatically.
    If you cant make the boyesens bigger then simply add the biggest intake cutouts you can.
    Then make them smaller and see the result.
    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  8. #19043
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muciek View Post
    You talking about ALUSIL? Here is a video of guy doing "reconditioning"
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ek5qv8Nmg0

    Here are pictures of sleeves from Polish shop that repairs engines with those kind of bores

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    "The process of regeneration of damaged cylinders is very complicated. The hardest part is to "pull out" crystals of silicon to the top of the sleeve. Thanks to unique technology and machine, Sunnen Sv-10, we restore the factory parameters of the cylinder"

    I think probably its possible to buy a raw sleeve like that (for bigger bores) but then we have to press this in so there is still a transfer heat barrier. Buying a appropriate weight piece for casting new cylinder might be impossible I think.
    Have a look at the squeeze form liners they are still plated though rather than just high silicon content.

    http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...post1130228977
    http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...post1130257136



    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  9. #19044
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    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post
    Have a look at the squeeze form liners they are still plated though rather than just high silicon content.

    http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...post1130228977
    http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...post1130257136
    Yes but all these cylinders have a piston wearing inside them, mine only has the ring touching, how wear resistant need it be?

  10. #19045
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flettner View Post
    Yes but all these cylinders have a piston wearing inside them, mine only has the ring touching, how wear resistant need it be?
    So what is going to control the piston temp and dissipate the heat?
    Neil L

  11. #19046
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    The radial expansive gas force on the ring will be exactly the same as a conventional setup whether the piston needs
    skirt support or not.
    Look at any long term worn cylinder - where is the wear greatest, at the top where the ring is being forced outward onto the bore.
    The answer to your question Neil, the bore needs to be exactly the same as a conventional one, unless you somehow delete the rings radial pressure - not
    mentioned in any new patent applications so far.
    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  12. #19047
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    Quote Originally Posted by kel View Post
    Hello, posted this in another thread. Any help most appreciated. Thanks
    Give Chris Picket a call.

  13. #19048
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    This thread was born almost seven years ago - still going strong!
    I can't think of any other source for 2-stroke info with even close to the amount of knowledge that has been shared here.
    Big thanks to all contributors, especially TZ, you've started something truly great!

  14. #19049
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    wobbly i think some windows might be the way to go as im still a bit short on the inlet area. ive went nearly as wide as the side piston cutouts. going up doesnt seem like a good idea as the ring may pop below the inlet roof edge. boyesens can be alittle bigger but that wont gain me much . same thing going lower, i wont gain much and the floor is already pretty thin.
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  15. #19050
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    Quote Originally Posted by peewee View Post
    wobbly i think some windows might be the way to go as im still a bit short on the inlet area. ive went nearly as wide as the side piston cutouts. going up doesnt seem like a good idea as the ring may pop below the inlet roof edge. boyesens can be alittle bigger but that wont gain me much . same thing going lower, i wont gain much and the floor is already pretty thin.
    Maybe You should use only top ring, then lower one will not be problem? How much Hp You want to get from this engine. Carb size will not be a problem (too small carb) ?

    In other thread which Smitty started up Mike Gayner revealed even better search method than known before (using google to search whole KB) this one search only in this thread.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike.Gayner View Post
    There's an even better way if you're wanting to search within a particular thread.

    For example if you wanted to search for “disc valve” in just the ESE thread, first you need to find the thread URL ID. Go into the ESE thread and grab the following info from the URL bar:

    kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/86554

    Now in google, search for: disc valve inurl:kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/86554

    Using inurl: will only return results that have the appended string in the URL, so this search will target only that thread.

    You might get just one result followed by text saying irrelevant results were omitted – just click “search with the omitted results included” to get a complete search.

    You’re going to want to make your search as specific as possible, and let Google do the ranking.

    edit: And just a quick follow up - don't even bother with the site's search. vBulletin search is notoriously useless, let Google do the leg work.

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