ESE's works engine tuner

[Grumph]

I want to use CU sheet for gaskets and I'll use several thickness so we can adjust the squish. I don't think the deck heights are the same. I will also pin the barrel, gasket and head so they align.

I will add some weld into the head to strengthen it but still deciding how much.

I've been using the VHT copper spray and it works very well. (I guess the same idea as the aly paint)

Cheers Wallace

Wallace, you could possibly use spacers on the cylinder studs...Counterbore and press them into the bottom flange (maybe a tack weld too) then a light skim over the top surface to get a true face. I'd probably O ring the bores too, there looks to be enough room. This should stop the head warpage anyway.
There's certainly no shortage of water volume around the studs...

[TZ350]

is that epoxy filling the cheek holes ?

No, not epoxy, they are aluminium plugs.

[Tim Ey]

You could use the hall sensor for the Power-Spark ignition, or any other small hall sensor.

Wire it like this:
Attachment 315565

Thanks a lot adegnes, but I want it to be KISS, so no other sensortype might be used

Anyone else has a good hint for a tiny pickup?

[Flettner]

Here is a "thing" we machined up today, facilitate a six speed gearbox I belive

[chrisc]

How do you account for the extra width for fitting the crank and cylinder?
Also, case, volume. Bam.

[Yow Ling]

Thanks a lot adegnes, but I want it to be KISS, so no other sensortype might be used

Anyone else has a good hint for a tiny pickup?

points can be hidden inside the rotor, I think hall effect is good, some of the industrial versions are pretty nice

[Grumph]

Thanks a lot adegnes, but I want it to be KISS, so no other sensortype might be used

Anyone else has a good hint for a tiny pickup?

Check the garden machinery catalogues. There are several pickups available to convert, for example, Briggs and Stratton stuff from points to electronic...
Most are pretty small due to the limited space available. Also cheap....

[Flettner]

How do you account for the extra width for fitting the crank and cylinder?
Also, case, volume. Bam.

Bam-bam? All desirable things. Cylinder aint going to fit this piddly little crank case anyway.

[husaberg]

Bam-bam? All desirable things. Cylinder aint going to fit this piddly little crank case anyway.

I think he's talking comic book. kaapow

[nine-thirtysix]

Hi everybody,

I followed this thread for a long time and the knowledge which is shared here is absolutly amazing!
Now like to share what I have found out and would like to hear some thoughts.

I working all time I can free up on my Honda CR125.

Here you find the Ignition maps from this bike. From OEM the mapping is just shit! The TPS mapping is nearly unrideable because of the lack of power everywhere except the top and this is really peaky. So I experimented with the TPS and found that the map which comes into play when the TPS is disconnected is far better for tight tracks like Germany has. Years later I found that I could get a complete different mapping when emulating abou 125% throttle opening. So I rode this for a while. But It did something rally scary to the powerband because it pulled quite hard in the middle it reved faster to the top and the engine was cutted completly. So when you were hitting a jump near max. power there is no overrev left for changing balance or rotation. Means feels like a stalled engine in the air and a really dangerous endo situation follows.
After 2 years laying in the workshop and dozens nightmare endo situation I took the time for a new harness for the Ignitech.
The third curve shows the current setup of the Ignitech.


Know some oddity:

I set the rev limiter soft and hard at 15000 since I thought I will never hit that. But found out that it misfires at about 11500 to 12000! After that I changed for 16000rpm and it reved more...now it is at 20000rpm and hopefully will never distract again. I don't know what happend there in the ignitech...

I messured mapping points from an YZ125 and I know this bike pulls extremly hard bellow 6000rpm and revs quite good.
And the odd: max. advance 27°! And this worked far better for my CR then the stock max. 37°.
Thoughts why?
For 6500 I need the max. advance for real strong pull but down low was better at less advance so thats the reason for the value there.

I also had problems when changing the curve between 1500 and 5000 that the whole power band was fucked up...I verifyed it severall times but was ok so I canceled this test out as "strange".

I'm not yet on the right way with the overev...it's at it's best for now. Changes above 13000 affect max. power which is strange again since I throught that the engine doesn't rev till there yet. but the 6° max. retard are from the YZ as a starting point again. 7° is less overev. Haven't tried 5° so far.

It's all butt dyno so a long development to find the best setting.

Thank's for reading. And I open for any criticism or thoughts.
Tobias

Edit: I forgot the bike feels now like 250 2 stroke if you don't have one to compare and just remember the old powerband. But the KTM SX125 of a friend of mine has still heaps more power in the overev (it has nothing down low but he doesn't care about it).

[seattle smitty]

Wiechman, I've never seen that sheet, wow! But so far it's not working for me. I type the K, then hold down the Alt key and type 0246 . . . nothing. Same result when I hit Alt but don't hold it down while typing the numbers . . . ???

Wallace, a couple of times now you have mentioned that the combustion chambers have different volumes. So re-machine them to the same volume and then flycut the whole surface as needed, what's the big deal? Konig owners were of three kinds: 1) "Checkbook racers" who sent their engines to Zak to re-machine and assemble complete, 2) DIY racers that could do much of their own machine work and welding, and 3) Guys who ran slow and rarely finished a race. What I'm saying is that this sort of operation was just standard procedure for most Konig owners; measure and re-machine lots of stuff. Silly, ain't it? Maybe Dieter should have just shipped us the raw castings (which weren't real great either, for that matter). I'm probably over-stating this; the iron-block two cylinder Konig 250s were not too bad.

I wouldn't go any tighter than .035" on the squish clearance, unless you blueprint the engine and buy a new crank from Konny. As for the copper shim, is that to go between the case halves? Are you having to re-true the main bearing line? I'm unclear on the need for the copper shim. But in any case, do the thing I mentioned of adding through-bolts (next to the main bearings) to hold the case halves together.

I think I have some old notes on building a 4-cylinder, and if I find anything useful I'll post it. Is this to go in a bike or what?

[FastFred]

How do you account for the extra width for fitting the crank and cylinder? Also, case, volume. Bam.

TS six speed box, long rod, cylinder sits on a spacer plate, big crankcase volume for the pipe to draw from. The idea is that the crankcase is just a place to store air/fuel for the pipe to suck up and stuff back into the cylinder before the exhaust port closes.

Suzuki GP100 bottom end that is being widened with a 11.5mm splitter plate for a 6 speed TS gear cluster and fitted with a KE175 Rotary valve cover for a 118mm RV. The splitter plate will have provision for EFI fuel injectors.



Having widened the cases I needed a longer bigend pin for a wider crank and found a 61mm Diesel gudgeon pin to replace the orginal 50mm one. The KE RV cover allows me to use a much larger RV than the original GP one. The bigend bearing is from an RGV250 and the 115mm center to center rod is from a Yamaha RD400.

Here is a "thing" we machined up today, facilitate a six speed gearbox I belive

That is very clever.

[F5 Dave]

Hi 936 welcome. Thinking your misfire could have been voltage drop? Try a meter taped to the tank and over the power and ground. Some 125s were 4 pole alternators but thought 04. Failing that coil, plug lead etc worth swapping out.

[Lef16]

Hello guys,
the photo below is from a kart engine brochure. 54x54.5
They claim that this engine has 43hp at 13900(25.2m/s)...is this possible from a 125cc engine?Or 23.6m/s is the redline?
Cheers

[andrew a]

Bam-bam? All desirable things. Cylinder aint going to fit this piddly little crank case anyway.

Bam Bam is a baby dear I thought! Give us a picture Hussa please.
Just started to re read my Burt Munro book. He took 12 month to make cylinder heads. I love to see your progress Neil.