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Thread: ESE's works engine tuner

  1. #20101
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    10th February 2005 - 20:25
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    Quote Originally Posted by jasonu View Post
    sux-a-cluck (New Zealand accent)
    .............................

  2. #20102
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    18th November 2010 - 11:51
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    Hi all,

    I have been sifting over this thread over the years and love the knowledge and informtion shared on here.

    I have a question for anyone with experience on the subject.

    I am mixing Avgas and Maxima 927 Castor, Have run it in the bike once and it was fine but was quite hard to get mixed up and while I was doing a main jet change the fuel I drained out had a milky look to it after it sat for a while, so I assume it's seperating. Is there anything I can add to it to get it to be stable or should I just be using something else? I wanted to use castor for max protection.

    Grateful for any advice.

    Cheers

    Neil

  3. #20103
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    8th February 2007 - 20:42
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    No funnyer than " seex a cleek " Ozzy accent.
    But then I would rather have " fush and chups " than "feesh and cheeps" - just a personal choice mind you.
    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  4. #20104
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    23rd March 2015 - 21:24
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    Quote Originally Posted by lodgernz View Post
    Frits, can you tell us if Mr Gerrits is involved in the Ryger project?
    first post for me, but maybe I can shed some light...

    Over at Pitlane someone mentioned that the developers actual name is HarRY GERrits or HarRY GERritsen and not Harry Ryger. Post was deleted rather quickly

  5. #20105
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    18th March 2013 - 04:44
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    Quote Originally Posted by koenich View Post
    first post for me, but maybe I can shed some light...

    Over at Pitlane someone mentioned that the developers actual name is HarRY GERrits or HarRY GERritsen and not Harry Ryger. Post was deleted rather quickly
    Yea there was post like this.

  6. #20106
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    12th March 2010 - 16:56
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    Quote Originally Posted by koenich View Post
    first post for me, but maybe I can shed some light...

    Over at Pitlane someone mentioned that the developers actual name is HarRY GERrits or HarRY GERritsen and not Harry Ryger. Post was deleted rather quickly
    Yes I read that too (pitlane), wasn't sure what to make of it?

  7. #20107
    Join Date
    18th May 2007 - 20:23
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    RG50 and 76 Suzuki GP125 Buckets
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    Quote Originally Posted by NAR RG500 View Post
    I am mixing Avgas and Maxima 927 Castor ... it's separating. Is there anything I can add to it to get it to be stable
    Acetone ... its been a while so from memory, 500ml in 20L of avgas with Castrol R at 20:1. 1L tins or plastic bottles of Acetone can be brought at paint shops.

  8. #20108
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    22nd November 2013 - 16:32
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    "Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm.”

  9. #20109
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    23rd March 2015 - 21:24
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    Quote Originally Posted by ken seeber View Post
    http://worldwide.espacenet.com/publi...C&locale=en_EP

    seems kinda legit on a first view

  10. #20110
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    20th April 2011 - 08:45
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    Quote Originally Posted by MotleyCrue View Post
    With the 6 o'clock ring peg in the middle of the C port on a 250 size cylinder, about how wide can the C port get before the end of the rings cause problems. I know it depends on several things but ballpark about how wide for the C port?
    Let me start by explaining once more why the ring peg should be at the 6 0'clock position at all.
    Each time the piston ring passes over the exhaust port, it bulges outward slightly, after which it is shoved back into its groove.
    If the part of the ring to the left of the exhaust port does not have the same length as the part to the right of the port, this shoving will invoke an inclination of the ring to rotate in its groove; one end of the ring will constantly hammer against the ring peg. This may cause a burr on the ring end and/or it may work the peg loose.
    The only way to prevent this is to put the peg diametrically opposite the exhaust port.

    The C-port can be as wide as 40% of the bore, provided the peg is at the 6 o'clock position, so there is not more than 20% overhang of unsupported ring.
    If the peg is off-center, even if the C-port width is not more than 40% of the bore, the ring overhang may become >20% on one side and we should be careful.

    How helpful is it to mod the cylinder just above the top middle of the C port to give the ring ends slightly more time to settle when the piston is travelling upwards? I have never run the end of the rings in the middle of a port before on any size engine and a 250cc cylinder would seem more likely to be a problem than on say a 50 cc cylinder.
    The ring will be thankful if you remove the sharp top and bottom edges on all ports. At the exhaust ports you can also apply a radius. But a radius at the transfer port edges has the negative effect that it will facilitate the inflow from spent combustion gases into the transfer ducts, so here we should restrict ourselves to a really small bevel.
    Large diameter rings are more prone to problems because their radial depth is usually smaller in relation to their diameter, compared to small diameter rings.

  11. #20111
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    20th April 2011 - 08:45
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    Quote Originally Posted by ken seeber View Post
    Happy thinking....
    It seems you missed my TST-post by just 8 minutes, Ken .

  12. #20112
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    16th September 2015 - 06:10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frits Overmars View Post
    Let me start by explaining once more why the ring peg should be at the 6 0'clock position at all.
    Each time the piston ring passes over the exhaust port, it bulges outward slightly, after which it is shoved back into its groove.
    If the part of the ring to the left of the exhaust port does not have the same length as the part to the right of the port, this shoving will invoke an inclination of the ring to rotate in its groove; one end of the ring will constantly hammer against the ring peg. This may cause a burr on the ring end and/or it may work the peg loose.
    The only way to prevent this is to put the peg diametrically opposite the exhaust port.

    The C-port can be as wide as 40% of the bore, provided the peg is at the 6 o'clock position, so there is not more than 20% overhang of unsupported ring.
    If the peg is off-center, even if the C-port width is not more than 40% of the bore, the ring overhang may become >20% on one side and we should be careful.

    The ring will be thankful if you remove the sharp top and bottom edges on all ports. At the exhaust ports you can also apply a radius. But a radius at the transfer port edges has the negative effect that it will facilitate the inflow from spent combustion gases into the transfer ducts, so here we should restrict ourselves to a really small bevel.
    Large diameter rings are more prone to problems because their radial depth is usually smaller in relation to their diameter, compared to small diameter rings.

    Thank you for the detailed explanation.

  13. #20113
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    7th September 2009 - 09:47
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    Quote Originally Posted by wobbly View Post
    No funnyer than " seex a cleek " Ozzy accent.
    But then I would rather have " fush and chups " than "feesh and cheeps" - just a personal choice mind you.
    What about a sux puk of pus in your frudge?

    Now back to the Ryger...

  14. #20114
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    8th February 2007 - 20:42
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    Now we know why the Interweb is not only a great resource its also bloody dangerous.

    Its now simple to solve the Ryger technology issue and get all the info we need - send some large unfriendly people to this address.
    Put pen and paper in the mans hand and threaten to remove his fingernails unless he cooperates.

    Address:
    Hengelosestraat 141
    Post code: 7521 AA
    Town: Enschede
    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  15. #20115
    Join Date
    29th January 2015 - 09:21
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    Quote Originally Posted by karter444 View Post
    with water flowing underneath.


    to follow on from peewee,s post and ask a few questions that may help both of us with our exhaust post modifications . maybe Frits and Wobbly could comment and head us in the right direction .
    My idea was to weld a vertical plate just inside the ex port entry up to a height just below tpo then weld from the base of the plate gradually raising the height of the ex port duct floor to achieve the exhaust duct exit shape as recommended by Wobbly . The reason for the vertical plate was to eliminate a heap of welding they may cause some barrel distortion , also its difficult to get into such a confirmed space to weld
    I don't think that the bottom half of the port does much apart from allowing a big radius that gently pushes the ring back in , but the vertical plate may effect the returning mixture by forcing it upwards towards the cyl head as it enters the cyl and may effect the way the pipe works on the transfers , it could possibly be a help , that's something I don't know
    If you think that the vertical plate is not a bad idea , would there be a better way to do the transfer ports . as the ports are commonly angled upwards and away from the exhaust to minimise the mixing of the incoming fuel with exhaust and reducing the incoming fuel to enter the exhaust port and as the vertical plate may eliminate this problem there may be some power gains by changing transfer port angles
    cheers .


    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. Name: exhaust port 001.jpg Views: 0 Size: 396.8 KB ID: 316578


    anyone care to comment ??

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