ESE's works engine tuner

**SS90** · 26th March 2010, 08:20

Originally Posted by TZ350

After your posts last week on the Team ESE thread, I don’t think so.

Oh come on Teezee, let's all just move on.

plenty of people are interested in seeing what the curve looked like, open discussion brings rewards.

**jasonu** · 26th March 2010, 13:04

Originally Posted by gatch

HEY I have a question regarding cut springs, if making the end of the spring perfectly flat is not your idea of fun. Would a turned bit of ally, with a thread cut in that was the same pitch as the springs coils be feasible ?

I ask because I'm probably going to be cutting some springs and can't be fucked dicking around, finishing the ends, when I could use the same threaded bit of ally after every trial cut..

Catch my drift ?

Sounds like way more trouble than giving the cut end a quick lash with a disk grinder...

**F5 Dave** · 26th March 2010, 14:20

Well you need to heat & bend the top coil sort of flat before hitting it with the grinder, but you don't want to temper the metal & getting it flat & equal length to the other side is a knack, but not too hard. Meat axes do not apply.

**jasonu** · 26th March 2010, 15:27

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**gatch** · 26th March 2010, 16:03

Originally Posted by jasonu

Sounds like way more trouble than giving the cut end a quick lash with a disk grinder...

Rubbish. I think this would be much better. Besides, we engineers like to take the hard road..

Originally Posted by F5 Dave

Well you need to heat & bend the top coil sort of flat before hitting it with the grinder, but you don't want to temper the metal & getting it flat & equal length to the other side is a knack, but not too hard. Meat axes do not apply.

Yep, I don't have a gas plant at home.. Also I think when you are heating the spring, the heat soak may take the temper from the spring for a few more mm than what you want..

**Mudflaps** · 26th March 2010, 18:11

So I just read this post from page 130 to the end. I can't believe how much I've learnt and understood. Thanks

I don't know if I'll ever be able to contribute in any fashion, but keep explaining stuff as you have been cause it's great to read.

**gatch** · 26th March 2010, 19:29

Originally Posted by TZ350

Looks like a really good idea, two things,

I think the length of spring wound onto the alloy plug would be inactive and have to be counted as a cutoff piece and the full length of the plug would have to be counted as preload spacer.

But it looks like a good idea, we might try it ourselves.

Grouse, you can try it out for me

I figure you could use a radius tool that is about the same diameter as the spring wire if you have one handy, or grind up a piece of assab, or a chipped cobalt slot drill. Anything really..

I reckon 1 complete coil wound on would be more than sufficient to hold it steady ?

**speedpro** · 26th March 2010, 21:07

I think you'll find all this talk of cutting springs is a waste as stock FZR springs are about right. I've set mine up by mixing and matching, trimmed the spacer, set oil levels and it's sweet enough for me. I've probably ridden one bike that's better but there isn't much in it. There's enough compression damping with the emulator preload wound up yet it's compliant over the worst ripples at Mt Wgtn but still has about 5-10mm travel left.

Couple of things I have done that seem OK - the rear preload is on minimum and the front has been dropped down the forks by the thickness of the handlebar clamps. Turns OK at Mt Welly but is still stable at Taupo.

**gatch** · 26th March 2010, 22:46

Originally Posted by speedpro

I think you'll find all this talk of cutting springs is a waste as stock FZR springs are about right. I've set mine up by mixing and matching, trimmed the spacer, set oil levels and it's sweet enough for me. I've probably ridden one bike that's better but there isn't much in it. There's enough compression damping with the emulator preload wound up yet it's compliant over the worst ripples at Mt Wgtn but still has about 5-10mm travel left.

Couple of things I have done that seem OK - the rear preload is on minimum and the front has been dropped down the forks by the thickness of the handlebar clamps. Turns OK at Mt Welly but is still stable at Taupo.

Wish I could say the same for the spada fork springs. They are progressive rate, and softer than a bag of warm marshmallows.. Cut cut cut. If that doesn't work I'm buying new..

**TZ350** · 27th March 2010, 07:36

Page 140 links collection

Links from the last ten pages, other link collections can be found on pages 80, 90, 100, 110, 120, 130

KartWeb Tech Articles
www.kartweb.com/TechArt/2Stroke/chapter1.doc
www.kartweb.com/TechArt/2Stroke/chapter2.doc
www.kartweb.com/TechArt/2Stroke/chapter3.doc
http://www.kartweb.com/TechArt/2Stroke/chapter1-2-3.swf
http://www.kartweb.com/TechArt/2Stro...technology.htm

Suspension Stuff
Tony Foal on motorcycle chassis and suspension:- http://www.tonyfoale.com/Articles/index.htm
Motorcycle Chassis Design and Construction and Other Technical Topics:- http://www.eurospares.com/frame.htm
A Progressive spring is not the same as a Dual-Rate Spring. http://www.worksperformance.com/html...rate_desc.html

Talks about Harley’s but the ideas apply to any bike:- http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Suspension.html

1 - Front compression
This is when you want your front compression to control the "nose down" effects of braking so it turns in to corner properly
2 - Front rebound
You have let go of brakes, adjust front rebound so that the front forks extend at a controlled rate allowing you to keep your line.
3 - Rear Compression
You want the rear end to squat a bit as you apply the power.
Make sure that the rear rebound setting keeps the rear wheel in contact with the road.
http://www.gostar-racing.com/informa...ion_set-up.htm

How do you do change the stock springs, spring rate?
How do you do change the stock springs! Spring rate? YOU CUT THEM SHORTER! But not without calculating how much! to get from .72 kg/mm to 0.9 kg/mm the calculation is rather strait forward surprisingly! Just figure out the percentages!
0.9 minus .72 divided that by .72 = 24% holy moly!!!
You need to cut off 24% of the coils to get a 0.9 spring rate? Or you could just settle for 0.8 kg/mm or 10% cut off!
From:- http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/i...-spring-rates/

I just knew it was going to get complicated, from YSSUA the suspension people:-
http://www.yssusa.com/suspension_problems.html

**SS90** · 27th March 2010, 07:48

Don't get distracted Teezee, where is the dyno run of your "plenum that works"

**SS90** · 27th March 2010, 07:54

Post your dyno run, and I will never post on your precious ESE thread ever again.

That's got to be the offer of the century.

**Henk** · 27th March 2010, 08:08

SS90. You've made your point, it's starting to get annoying now. Some of us try to follow this thread for the technical stuff and the bitch fight is an uneccesary distraction.

**SS90** · 27th March 2010, 08:27

Originally Posted by Henk

SS90. You've made your point, it's starting to get annoying now. Some of us try to follow this thread for the technical stuff and the bitch fight is an uneccesary distraction.

Yes, Henk, and when the technical stuff is wrong, what then?

I am annoyed as well, I'm trying to expand my knowledge.

The personal attacks are always coning from his kids (others too get abused in other threads), it's not necessary, and childish.

For me the subject of this thread is more than "just a game", I don't go advertising who I am so I can make money on return to NZ.

I only question things I don't see as correct, and give advise that helps.

What is wrong with that?

Anyway, as you where.