ESE's works engine tuner

[2005bully]

You're not.
Merry Christmas to all .

It seems this forum has made many of us not so alone anymore. Merry Christmas to one and all.... Kermit Buller

[ief]

Dykes rings are discussed only a couple off times and it seems they are not favorable. For one they cause detonation earlier than normal ring as I understand. Still, I'm gonne use some pistons with said rings. Now I wonder, are they more prone to 'bite' in the ex port when going to say 70 % What else should be taken into consideration?

And on a sidenote, is it a big problem if the ring-gap goes over a small port and if not, what would be considered small? (39 mm bore in this case) My thinking was if I have, say a, 7 mm wide port there no way for the ring to catch that.

[adegnes]

Dykes rings are discussed only a couple off times and it seems they are not favorable. For one they cause detonation earlier than normal ring as I understand. Still, I'm gonne use some pistons with said rings. Now I wonder, are they more prone to 'bite' in the ex port when going to say 70 % What else should be taken into consideration?

And on a sidenote, is it a big problem if the ring-gap goes over a small port and if not, what would be considered small? (39 mm bore in this case) My thinking was if I have, say a, 7 mm wide port there no way for the ring to catch that.

Ring gap passing over a 7mm wide port in 39mm bore = no problem at all.
I had the gap pass over one of the b-ports in this cylinder - not exactly ideal, but it didn't snag. (chipped nikasil is from porting mishap).

[wobbly]

Looking at the pics my first reaction is to " fix " the insert - that is extend the floor all the way out to the flange face.
As I said earlier having the dam in place makes the exit area much bigger than that at the port - and we already know that the reverse
scenario makes better power.
Having a much smaller area at the port may in fact work really well if the whole duct is reduced to suit, keeping the Mach number higher right down to the header.
TeeZee, try putting the measured data into EngMod and have a look at the Mach, down the duct length by varying the position of the Ex sensor.
Test it as it is now, then make the exit area much smaller as well - the power thrown up will be an indication of the result,but the Mach number gives us some insight into the actual effect.
In this case, maybe having a much smaller duct vol, with steps, like an old RS125, at the header, just might be a nice Xmas prezzy.
To make the sim really accurate, you will need to specify an actual step in the pipe input, as this has a big affect on the in and outflow calculations.

On a personal note, I am really glad we have now got back to the important shit of discussing 2T technology, and we have got rid of the idiot commentators suggesting I should
stop posting my thoughts on what and how these things work as HRC knows everything ( one of the stupidest things I have ever seen in print ) and I ( or anyone ) cant possibly be able to improve on anything they did.
If I was allowed I would have the dyno running on Xmas day to continue to learn how to improve on what Honda did - but then I would have to also be making my own Xmas pudding, not my job or forte.
Merry Xmas to you all and I hope the fat bearded guy drops off something cool for everyone here.

[Martin1981]

thanks wob and merry christmas to you and all the others. try to forget the stupid idiots allthough it is hard. the world is full of them

[emess]

I am really glad we have now got back to the important shit of discussing 2T technology

oh yes!
I think now is as good a time as any to say a huge thanks to all that have contributed so much on this thread. To Rob (TeeZee) for showing all his experiments regardless of whether they work or not and especially to Frits and Wobbly - your insights, expertise and time you spend helping us are all massively appreciated.

Merry Christmas & a Happy high powered New Year to all.

Mick

[ief]

Driving force, TZ, hat's off mate... happy stuff to all of you and what not (not a big fan of the hollydays)

[F5 Dave]

Indeed seasonal greetings and thanks for all the knowledge gifted by contributors.
Me? I'm hoping for a new impeller shaft for my gasgas. As the distributor in the loop is Triumph nz I might be asking for a Christmas miracle.

[wobbly]

The arc over voltage to ionise the spark gap can be as much as 40Kv, but once this has occurred the burn period where the Joules stored in the cap are drained away
in forming the ignition kernel is typically as low as 10Kv in a CDI system.
In most cases we should have a 5K plug as well as a 5K cap in series , thus we have a 10K resistance.Running the formula again this gives a loss of 2% or 5%.
As most CDI wiith source coils have very limited Joules available due to lots of turns needed to create voltage - not current, this i believe is significant.
DC/DC converters are a completely differing scenario, where Joules and or voltage are easy to generate, individually or in tandem.

[TZ350]

Looking at the pics my first reaction is to " fix " the insert - that is extend the floor all the way out to the flange face.

As I said earlier having the dam in place makes the exit area much bigger than that at the port - and we already know that the reverse scenario makes better power.

Having a much smaller area at the port may in fact work really well if the whole duct is reduced to suit, keeping the Mach number higher right down to the header.

Thanks, it is a team effort, hopefully Chambers will be happy to continue the experiment because he is the one doing all the real work making the changes.

I only help by recording the dyno runs and posting the results. I am looking forward to adding to the Team ESE stable by completing my own 50 with the information we find out from Chambers efforts.

[peewee]

hey guys i been slowly working on a new project and as it is right now the radiator is mounted slightly in front of the center of the chassis and in front of the engine (open chassis with no fairings) but there is no shielding on the radiator to catch any air. i was thinking to use some shielding on all four sides of the rad. maybe i can just use some stiff sheets of plastic or even weld some thin alluminum together to form a box shape that attaches to the rad sides/top/bottom. would it be affective if the walls were only say 6" long forward , and how much inward angle would each wall need to be ? i didnt really want to spend alot of time making something super elaborate but if i could keep it simple and affective it would be nice. i may even use a fan on the back side of the rad but i first want to sort out some kind of rad ducting, assuming this ducting idea is even worth bothering with. what im talking about is like the photo. right now my rad is like the top example but i want to make it like the bottom one but i was thinking using four walls instead of two like the photo

[husaberg]

hey guys i been slowly working on a new project and as it is right now the radiator is mounted slightly in front on the center of the chassis and in front of the engine (open chassis with no fairings) but there is no shielding on the radiator to catch any air. i was thinking to use some shielding on all four sides of the rad. maybe i can just use some stiff sheets of plastic or even weld some thin alluminum together to form a box shape that attaches to the rad sides. would it be affective if the sides were only say 6" , and how much inward angle would each wall need to be ? i didnt really want to spend alot of time making something super elaborate but if i could keep it simple and affective it would be nice. i may even use a fan on the back side of the rad but i first want to sort out some kind of rad ducting, assuming this ducting idea is even worth bothering with

I would suggest you Buy this book.

The Racing Motorcycle - A Technical Guide John Bradley it looks like its available for download as well.

[peewee]

i see there is vol 1 and 2. would i be better off with 2 ?

[husaberg]

i see there is vol 1 and 2. would i be better off with 2 ?

Both but Volume 2 I have not read as its out of print.
Pretty sure volume 2 is more practical fabrication skills.
Volume 1 is theory and design mainly. It has a good section on ducted cooling

[richban]

Merry Xmas to all and thanks again for all the amazing information shared on this Thread. I am sure It's made a massive difference to anyone racing a 2 stroke in NZ or anywhere across our small planet for that matter. Well done Rob!

We will be flying the 2 stroke flag again this year at the cemeterycircuit on boxing day. ( www.cemeterycircuit.co.nz ) This time with 3 bikes. 3 x NSR300's There is live streaming if you want to take a look. F3 is where we will be.


Live timing. http://www.livetiming.co.nz/Live_Timing.aspx


Cheers RB.