ESE's works engine tuner

[Jvenni]

I just copy past it from the dea kz announcement focussing not understanding why an open c port. In the case of an reed valve on the cylinder quite clear.

Should have seen that one, sorry for posting.

[AndreasL]

Anyone with ideas how to create at least SOME inner radius to some straight and very narrow transfers? (Approx 15x15mm at the case-to-cylinder entry.)

First thought was to add epoxy and then try to shape it with a curved file...but I don't really see me having success doing so.

Make some inserts and epoxy them to the inner wall?
Maybe not to bad except no uniform surface in any direction...but the epoxy will take care of that I guess.

Any input and crazy ideas is more than welcomed.
Cold (-19 yesterday) greetings from the other side of the globe.

[Muciek]

Try to carve something with aluminium and glue it, I have used piece of round pipe with ID of OD of the liner and epoxy it's easier to make 2 same inserts and glue them after shaping.

[AndreasL]

Thanks Muciek,

Thats probably my biggest concern, to get two equally shaped inserts/ducts.

Have been so focused at keeping as much of the original wall as possible but realize now how much it complicates things. This approach really needs to be investigated some more.

You don't suppose to have any pictures of your work?

[F5 Dave]

I've done this with ally inserts on my mb100 bucket.
Here's what I have learnt; yeah its easy enough to make shaped inserts and devcon them in securely, but applying the devcon to fill the gaps took multiple applications.
Then you run some vinamould into it to check if you did a good job.
Then you redo it as what looked good initially was crap.
Repeat six more times.

The results didn't show any improvement. Although the outer walls looked curved OK in hindsight, I'll hog them out some more one day. I think what I gained in better control, I lost in transfer volume, and as we now know needs to be there to fill the cylinder.

Had a pic but can't drag and drop on tablet.

Hmm this might work. Clearly this was not even cleaned up first attempt.
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/at...8&d=1419366485

[kel]

Anyone with ideas how to create at least SOME inner radius to some straight and very narrow transfers?

You can use the putty type epoxy. Make yourself a forming tool which has the inner duct profile cut into it (from memory I used a piece of 5mm ali). Apply the epoxy putty to the duct and then mash into shape using the forming tool. There will be finishing required, but the formed epoxy should be pretty close.

[TZ350]

Back story covering the development of the dam and using Engmod2T to analyse how to develop it.

Attachment 318591

The new exhaust duct requires boring the existing over size duct out and pressing in a new smaller nozzle shaped duct.

Cylinder exhaust duct nicely bored out.



Chambers made an exhaust duct, oval to round and pressed it into the cylinder with final porting to match it to the cylinder.



Finished product, narrowest part of the duct is 1.5 times the bore diameter from the exhaust port window, it looks the business.

Now for a bit of dyno time and glory.



Blue = ex dam and no nozzle, Red = ex dam plus nozzle.

Well that didn't go so well ... again .... so one more in a long list of things that didn't go well.

Chambers recons my scientific and analytical approach is Horse Shit Hocus Pocus, I think he is loosing the faith.

If there was any beer left in the fridge we would have both gone and got drunk ....

If we can't think of anything better the next move is to remove the dam or at least lower it a bit.

[AndreasL]

Great to see that many ideas.
Really appreciate it.

Now I have to decide what's the best option for me...

More input and pictures are welcomed since my black belt in Googling failed me for once.

[AndreasL]

That was a surprise TZ. It really looks good to me...but my knowledge is limited.

Wonder what's wrong?
Interesting none the less.

[adegnes]

Cylinder exhaust duct nicely bored out.



Chambers made an exhaust duct, oval to round and pressed into the cylinder with final porting to match it to the cylinder.



Finished product, narrowest part of the duct is 1.5 times the bore diameter from the exhaust port window, it looks the business.

Now for a bit of dyno time and glory.



Blue = ex dam and no nozzle, Red = ex dam plus nozzle.

Well that didn't go so well ... again .... so one more in a long list of things that didn't go well.

Chambers recons my scientific and analytical approach is Horse Shit Hocus Pocus, I think he is loosing the faith.

If there was any beer left in the fridge we would have both gone and got drunk ....

If we can't think of anything better the next move is to remove the dam or at least lower it a bit.

Great work! Don't feel to bad about it not producing results yet, thats the way it is with bleeding edge r&d!
Btw, I'm real happy this thread is back on track with awesome bucket developement!


"Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm." - Winston Churchill

[teriks]

If there was any beer left in the fridge we would have both gone and got drunk ....

If we can't think of anything better the next move is to remove the dam or at least lower it a bit.

Beer is seldom wrong

I think its a great idea, but thought that you were going to replace the previous "dam" with the nozzle, or at least replacing a decent chunk of the dam with the pressed in nozzle.
That way you could better replicate what you model in Engmod, i.e a linear change of duct area, instead of, as I interpret the pictures anyway, a big area increase along the dam.

[F5 Dave]

It looks nice but does it reduce to 75%. Assuming the port being so wide is a triple impersonator. That dam still looks like a brick wall. Couldn't the insert have met the floor?

[Frits Overmars]

It looks nice but does it reduce to 75%. Assuming the port being so wide is a triple impersonator. That dam still looks like a brick wall. Couldn't the insert have met the floor?

My thoughts exactly
(I was just going to write '+1' but the forum insists on at least 10 characters so I was forced to make it sound pompous ).

[SwePatrick]

SwePat,a free Xmas gift for you, may I suggest you polish that piston in a lathe to a mirror finish.
The dark, crater surface will be absorbing a huge amount of combustion heat ( like having fins all over the surface ) that should be heating the gas
and pushing the piston down - not making it bigger.
This was done at Aprilia, and I have been doing it for years on all race engines.

Re the ignition noise - use a resistor plug and cap, this will remove most of the RF in the ignition lead.

And,,, confirmed!
I did 9 pulls 3 without polished crown, three with polished, and three again without.
Average gain 0.8hp (peak 1.3hp)
All was done with new piston and rings.

Also did an equal test with overfilling the gearbox with 2dl oil extra.
Average loss: 0.5hp (dip 0.6)
Then tested to add a 1dl GL5 hypoidoil into the dexron VI i´m running.
Averege gain: 0.3hp (peak 0.4)

Have reached total peak at 26.78hp at 12200rpm with 10% VP116 octane mixed into ordinary premium fuel from station.

[teriks]

It looks nice but does it reduce to 75%. Assuming the port being so wide is a triple impersonator.

With the "dam" in place and all (if I remember correctly) of the remaining port area in the blowdown region I don't think you'd want much of a reduction at all.
75% of the original port area, or perhaps equal to or sligtly larger than the remaining area could be good starting points for some work in Engmod.

Couldn't the insert have met the floor?

Thats basically what I tried to say earlier, only tip-toeing in a foreign language