ESE's works engine tuner

[RAFFY]

on the rg50 dyno graphs the rpm peak has moved approx 750 rpm to the right and large loss on way up as a result of the dam and insert ,be worth a try lengthening the header as a quick test ,also the dam looks to be ? opposite to the cotton bobbin duct shape your trying to achieve if you do a quick cross section sketch to check,a small ball ended cutter on a straight porting tool will get you into the a transfers to put some hooks into them if the 90 tool is late arriving

[Peter1962]

The mechanical PV mechanism is almost always set by the tension of a spring resisting the movement of balls up a ramp.
Its easy to shim the spring to make it open later ( looks like the KR is opening way too soon ).
But the issue then is that it may be fully open at a later rpm, but the more you shim it, the faster it opens.
This is usually not whats needed.

Its easy enough to set a PV from scratch, do the dyno run with it locked down. then one with it locked up, and one in 1/2 open position.
Overlay the graphs and the 3 points are then easy to plot.
This will be impossible to replicate with a mechanical servo.
But using the EXUP motor off an R1 its cheap and easy to add an electronic setup driven by an Ignitech.
When people put pipes on an R1 they always dump the EXUP, so they are available off Ebay for chips.
Honda also did a cable servo PV in 2004 on the CR125, so those bits will work as well.
Here is the setup on a KTM250.

Beautiful work ! Is it for a karting project ? What is the device that is mounted behind the cilinder ?

[husaberg]

Beautiful work ! Is it for a karting project ? What is the device that is mounted behind the cilinder ?

A diaphragm fuel pump
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...post1130927084
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...post1130930915

[JanBros]

FLYWHEEL.EXE will run directly under Windows 7, no emulation required, mainly because it does not call any graphics functions, but most of my other programs won't.

When I started writing my programs, I used Algol (ancient Greek for computers). Those programs would not even run on home computers, because these did not yet exist. Later, when I got my own PC, I had to rewrite everything for the MS-DOS operating system. And when that was succeeded by Windows 95/98 I had the same pleasure again.
The sad thing about it is that this repeated labour did not contribute a thing to the functionality of the programs; it only served to keep them alive under ever more Microsoft-belches.

The programs in their present form run under all Microsoft operating systems from DOS 6.2 to Windows 98SE. Depending on the graphics card in a particular computer they may also function with Windows 2000 and XP. Under Vista and Windows 7 they can be used via an emulator. But the recent Microsoft operating systems are so preoccupied with virus control that real-time communication between my electronic equipment and the computer suffers. Of course there is a solution: rewrite all programs and have new measuring equipment built, at appreciable financial consequences. And then, when everything functions again, Microsoft will introduce something even newer, even better, and I can start all over again. I am not young enough anymore to waste my time with such nonsense.

people throw away old laptops/computers because they are worth absolutly nothing.
my advice to people would be to simply find an old computer , put win98 or even only dos on it and run the software on that one.

[Makr]

I design the cylinder as a solid model before I start machining. I think I was working out how the upper part of the aux exhaust ports would come out. I think this is pretty close to what they are. The sleeve is the only bridge (this doesn't have the sleeve installed). I was pretty worried about that, but it seems to be a non issue.

You can see the coolant passage around the exhaust port.



Liner in, but aux ports unfinished..



This is after a bunch of dyno pulls.

[Makr]

The other thing I have been using the past couple of years is a two piece piston. I tried plugging the wristpin and had plugs come out, and really unless you use a drag racing type of pin boss the completely plugs the pin bore you are always going to have a passage from one port to the next. I initially designed this to get rid of the wristpin hole, but because I could make this round instead of cam shaped, it has worked out mechanically better. I don't really have rattly pistons they seem to seal really well. I can run them pretty tight even though the ones I have been using are not a high silicon alloy. I think using 4032 grade alloy would make them even better.





The pin boss connects to the connecting rod like normal, and the the boss threads into the piston itself. It keeps from unscrewing by the threaded bolts. and the bolts have c-clips to keep them in place.





the one on the left was run for quite a while so you can see how uniform the wear is all around. Or maybe not the picture is a cell phone pic.



The only issue I have had is the the boss to piston joint starts to get loose after 40 or 50 dyno pulls. Not very loose, but enough I swap them out. I think plenty of longevity for my application. I have been working on a ACME thread version, as I think deeper and more perpendicular surface area will extend the life. I haven't machined new ones yet as I like what I have, and like all of you, waiting for the Ryger thing that may make all of this outdated anyway.

You are welcome to make your own just give me credit.

[Peter1962]

A diaphragm fuel pump
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...post1130927084
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...post1130930915

Thank you, husaberg. I overlooked those obviously. That engine is a work of art.

[adegnes]

The other thing I have been using the past couple of years is a two piece piston. I tried plugging the wristpin and had plugs come out, and really unless you use a drag racing type of pin boss the completely plugs the pin bore you are always going to have a passage from one port to the next. I initially designed this to get rid of the wristpin hole, but because I could make this round instead of cam shaped, it has worked out mechanically better. I don't really have rattly pistons they seem to seal really well. I can run them pretty tight even though the ones I have been using are not a high silicon alloy. I think using 4032 grade alloy would make them even better.





The pin boss connects to the connecting rod like normal, and the the boss threads into the piston itself. It keeps from unscrewing by the threaded bolts. and the bolts have c-clips to keep them in place.





the one on the left was run for quite a while so you can see how uniform the wear is all around. Or maybe not the picture is a cell phone pic.



The only issue I have had is the the boss to piston joint starts to get loose after 40 or 50 dyno pulls. Not very loose, but enough I swap them out. I think plenty of longevity for my application. I have been working on a ACME thread version, as I think deeper and more perpendicular surface area will extend the life. I haven't machined new ones yet as I like what I have, and like all of you, waiting for the Ryger thing that may make all of this outdated anyway.

You are welcome to make your own just give me credit.

wow! That's awesome, thanks for sharing!

[41juergen]

That looks like a nice job on the RZ cylinders.
But possibly not needed nowdays as VF have a new reed for the Banshee that is a big step ahead of the VF3.
The RZ needs plenty of inlet capability when tuned really hard, but the CPI Cheetah cylinder had CR250 size reeds ( 68mm wide )
that needed to be offset outward to make them fit.
Calvin and I had a major disagreement about this, until I fitted the smaller 60mm CR125 VF3 ( looks the same as your NSR reed )
and offset them back onto the cylinder center, with a 6mm stuffer plate down one side to equalise the flow.
This change made +5Hp, and the CR125 reed is capable of even more than the engine could mangage.
So bigger in this case for shure wasnt better.

Yeah, I saw your comments earlier. Before I got EngMod I used the try end error method to see what's an improvement. I also modified the WSM pistons to bigger inlet windows. This happened after only a few hundred kilometers on the street (not so hard riding.....)

After lessons learned I asked Woessner to make these for me.... Later then when feeding all data then into EngMod I found them to be more or less ok for my desired setup. Now the Ex port incl. aux ports needs to be adapted (not my picture, but that's how I will try and of course with a bit more triangular window). I also got new head inserts based on your recommendations with a CNC made radius following the piston dome. Finally the pipe needs changes...

BTW. if interested here is the link on the American RZ forum I posted my stuff longer time ago.
http://www.rzrd500.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=3918

[2005bully]

MAKR...
Really impressive work from concept to completion!!!

You mention that 4032 alloy may be a better choice of material for the 2 pc pistons, What alloy are you currently using?

Your pictures are like eye candy

[wobbly]

Great work on the RZ.
I also got Nova to do a new input shaft setup,as the TZ first gear is way too tall,but for the RZ it is possible to
use a Banshee 1st shaft that is taller then the stock ratio - its not long enough for the dry clutch though.
One thing I would suggest on the insert design.
Change the O ring seal to the top face, so you are using the strength of the head cover to support the insert around the plug.
Then machine above the bowl to allow water to cool the plug threads.

[peewee]

Yeah, I saw your comments earlier. Before I got EngMod I used the try end error method to see what's an improvement. I also modified the WSM pistons to bigger inlet windows. This happened after only a few hundred kilometers on the street (not so hard riding.....)

After lessons learned I asked Woessner to make these for me.... Later then when feeding all data then into EngMod I found them to be more or less ok for my desired setup. Now the Ex port incl. aux ports needs to be adapted (not my picture, but that's how I will try and of course with a bit more triangular window). I also got new head inserts based on your recommendations with a CNC made radius following the piston dome. Finally the pipe needs changes...

BTW. if interested here is the link on the American RZ forum I posted my stuff longer time ago.
http://www.rzrd500.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=3918

you might look into the wiseco. they seem to hold up well and don't have those huge cutouts around the wristpin area. then again if your aux ports don't extend into the cutout area I guess that's a non issue.

[Makr]

MAKR...
Really impressive work from concept to completion!!!

You mention that 4032 alloy may be a better choice of material for the 2 pc pistons, What alloy are you currently using?

Your pictures are like eye candy

Thank you. The inside is 6061 and the outside is 2024.

I have made them out of a bunch of different alloys. You know, just to see.haha!

These were 7068, I think. They didn't last one hard pull.




I spent all day with the bike at a car show. Terry Nish's 412 mph streamliner in the background.

[seymour14]

Thank you. The inside is 6061 and the outside is 2024.

I have made them out of a bunch of different alloys. You know, just to see.haha!

These were 7068, I think. They didn't last one hard pull.




I spent all day with the bike at a car show. Terry Nish's 412 mph streamliner in the background.

Are there other events you can participate in before speed week? You would seem to be a very patient man if you had to wait so long between outings.

Used 6061 on our sleeves, having been told they were good with nicosil coatings, the F4 GP will prove or disprove that theory. That 7068 sure does not look like a winner at all...

[2005bully]

Makr...
Thanks... I often wondered if 2024 might work. Kermit Buller