ESE's works engine tuner

[emess]

Turbulent uses entered ignition timing and afr.

Turbulent uses ALL the data in the cmb file as well as compression ratio, squish clearance, charge temperature, fuel, purity and more as a starting point to calculate the combustion delay, duration, vibe a & vibe m values . It does this on each iteration refining and homing in on what it calculates to be good solutions to the equations.

Detonation can occur any time during the refinement or on every iteration if TUbMax is too high for the fuel used and Wobbly has explained how to sort this with ignition timing, compression ratio, stinger diameter and squish clearance or a combination of those factors.

With the new version there are significant differences in power & TUbMax between a Turbulent run and a Prescribed run that uses the exported combustion data from an otherwise identical turbulent run so I'm now using Turbulent all the time.

[adegnes]

Turbulent uses ALL the data in the cmb file as well as compression ratio, squish clearance, charge temperature, fuel, purity and more as a starting point to calculate the combustion delay, duration, vibe a & vibe m values . It does this on each iteration refining and homing in on what it calculates to be good solutions to the equations.

Detonation can occur any time during the refinement or on every iteration if TUbMax is too high for the fuel used and Wobbly has explained how to sort this with ignition timing, compression ratio, stinger diameter and squish clearance or a combination of those factors.

With the new version there are significant differences in power & TUbMax between a Turbulent run and a Prescribed run that uses the exported combustion data from an otherwise identical turbulent run so I'm now using Turbulent all the time.

What I ment was it doesn't use the numbers entered for "delay", "duration" etc.

[emess]

What I ment was it doesn't use the numbers entered for "delay", "duration" etc.

It has to have reasonable starting values for delay, duration etc to allow solutions to be calculated in a reasonable time and to ensure the iterations converge instead of 'blowing up' and becoming unstable.

[ief]

And in that light I also assumed (thought I understood) that it did just that, take some default values and work from there...

Gotta revisit it again (gave up for the time being) but I'm pretty sure it freaked out (flamefront error) on deafault vibe and delay as well, ignition nothing strange and in normal run no deto at all...

Tuff stuff again this... we'll get there, some day

this:

"With the new version there are significant differences in power & TUbMax between a Turbulent run and a Prescribed run that uses the exported combustion data from an otherwise identical turbulent run so I'm now using Turbulent all the time."

Is totaly over my head.

[adegnes]

It has to have reasonable starting values for delay, duration etc to allow solutions to be calculated in a reasonable time and to ensure the iterations converge instead of 'blowing up' and becoming unstable.

Ok, I see.

[polinizei]

I got a message from Neels.


The turbulent model requires refinement as it takes too long to burn the last 5% under some conditions so on some engines it is fine while on others it is not. To stop this I had added a small check but the solution added mass and a quicker burn. In normal testing it added about 0.1% which was ok but in some cases it added as much as 5% which is why I removed it. I am continuing the development.

[peewee]

My pick is the top where the water is hottest as more thermal energy is lost the greater the thermal difference is, ie bulk energy is lost more rapidly from a hotter surface than a cooler one.

would you happen to know if I need a rectifier and regulator ? I know nothing of this electric stuff

heres what I know of the fan: Power Requirements 10.5V to 14.5V DC Only
Amp Draw 3 Amps
Watt Draw 30 Watts

heres what I know of the engine magneto: 11.5v min 16.3v max ( this must be taking into account a 16v regulator already installed) according to the owners manual

[bucketracer]

would you happen to know if I need a rectifier and regulator ? heres what I know of the fan: Power requirements 10.5V to 14.5V DC Only Amp Draw 3 Amps Watt Draw 30 Watts

heres what I know of the engine magneto: 11.5v min 16.3v max ( this must be taking into account a 16v regulator already installed) according to the owners manual

You will need a Rectifier/Regulator and a smoothing Capacitor too, or a battery. A battery acts like a really big smoothing capacitor.



The rectified voltage is all ripply, the smoothing capacitor makes the rectified voltage from the bikes magneto/generator more like the sort of smooth DC voltage you would get from a battery. The regulator regulates the voltage to something like a maximum of 14V. 14V because you need something a little higher than 12V to re charge a 12V battery.

[marsheng]

A magneto is used to charge the battery. Most magnetos start to charge just above idle. As the voltage is proportional to the rate of change of flux the faster you rev the motor the higher the voltage. At max rpm this can be a 100 volts. A regulator keeps the output at 14 or so volts to charge the battery. The next thing to consider is how much power the magnto can deliver. Most magnetos are designed to supply the minimum for the bike. Eg if you have a 50watt headlamp the the magneto will be around this figure. What tends to happen is that as the rpm rises so does the voltage. As the voltage rises the headlamp takes more power. P=v2/r. This then stops the magneto producing high voltages.

Bottom line is a small bike will have a small magneto and a cap plus cdi load will work. Big bike probably not.

PS multmeters do not accurately measure magneto voltages.

[peewee]

I don't want the extra weight of a battery so that's out of the question. originally it had lights powered by the stator magneto but the lights are no longer used. rather I wanted to power a fan instead. owners manual doesn't tell me what the amps or watts are but only the volts. 11.5v/2500rpm. 16.3v/8000rpm.

originally there was a regulator and maybe a rectifier but ill have to check my other manual about that. maybe I can just get a oem regulator/rectifier and plug it back into the wiring system ? would a smoothing capacitor keep the volts steady so they wont fluctuate up/down with rpm like marsheng mentioned ? I remember the lights got brighter as the engine revved up. I guess the fan would be affected the same way

ill see if I can draw a diagram of the wiring system as of now and maybe someone can give me advice where to hook in with the regulator/rectifier

[F5 Dave]

Reg/rec is one device. Should hold things below 14.5V. You will need a decent size smoothing capacitor.

[TZ350]

There are three wire (three phase) and two wire (single phase) stators. Bucket has posted a picture of a three phase unit. A single phase unit would only have one generator coil with two wires coming off of the stator.

use these with a 50Volt 4,700 uF capacitor instead of a battery, good for about 25Watts max.

Single phase Rectifier/Regulator cheap as chips of Trademe. We use these ourselves.



Another single phase unit, the two yellow wires go to the stator, and a three phase unit, the three black wires go to the stator.



My single phase voltage rectifier/regulator, yellow wires to the stator and red and green to the battery. I use a bigger voltage rectifier regulator on the Beast because the total current draw could be 10Amps (120 Watts) and we use the smaller voltage rectifier regulators with the CDI only bikes because they have only about 1.5Amps (18 Watts) power demand.



I use a battery on my Beast because I have EFI fuel injection and the fuel pump has to take power from the battery to build up some fuel pressure before the engine will start.

Otherwise I would replace the battery with one of these 50Volt 4,700 uF capacitors. We use these capacitors (from Jacar) with the smaller rectifier regulator (Trademe $9.50) on our bikes that have Ignetec CDI digital ignitions. No battery required, just push and go.

[TZ350]

A single coil can actually be wound around several stator elements. This monkey bike stator has a high voltage winding wound on two stator elements and a single 12Volt coil wound around three stator elements.

We use these Monkey bike generators and strip the high voltage windings off and if we want more power then we wind a second lot of 12Volt windings and parallel them up for more current carrying capacity. So even though all six bobbins have windings on them and there are two distinct 12Volt sides they are all joined together into one logical single phase coil with only two power (yellow) wires coming from the stator.



Loncin Monkey bike generator unit with a Suzuki RG50 flywheel center bolted (and glued) into it.

[marsheng]

would a smoothing capacitor keep the volts steady so they wont fluctuate up/down with rpm like marsheng mentioned ?

The power from the magneto is a pulsing signal, the cap averages the voltage per rev. It does not keep it from rising as the rpm rises.

For me a battery is a must as I can then power my instruments. Instruments are a must for race bike development.

[mr bucketracer]

A single coil can actually be wound around several stator elements. This monkey bike stator has a high voltage winding wound on two stator elements and a single 12Volt coil wound around three stator elements.

We use these Monkey bike generators and strip the high voltage windings off and if we want more power then we wind a second lot of 12Volt windings and parallel them up for more current carrying capacity. So even though all six bobbins have windings on them and there are two distinct 12Volt sides they are all joined together into one logical single phase coil with only two power (yellow) wires coming from the stator.



Loncin Monkey bike generator unit with a Suzuki RG50 flywheel center bolted (and glued) into it.

thats realy what carb i should put on my 50, is that one 28mm?