ESE's works engine tuner

**AndreasL** · 26th March 2016, 03:04

Ok, I think I got it now!

Sorry adegenes, I didn't get that you got the resulting masses AFTER performing the "add washers" step.

I'm slow today...to.

The numbers so weird it tricked me.

**adegnes** · 26th March 2016, 03:21

Originally Posted by AndreasL

adegnes, when adding mass to the little end (to make it "stay in any crank position") you will get a higher balance factor %, not a lower one.

So the linked explanation is correct, but I think you have misinterpreted it a bit.

I think I didn't explain my process good enough. When I arrived at the stage where you're supposed to add weight to the small end to balance the crank my small end was already too heavy.

Originally Posted by Frits Overmars

I can't find anything wrong with your conclusion. Sounds like you will need a couple of heavy metal slugs - or an angle grinder.
Still makes me wonder: who on earth built the crankshaft like that?

Apparently Doppler does...
What I was expecting to find was too much counterweight, cause this crank is typically ment for 70cc "racing" cylinders.
Obviously they didn't give a shit, or they just don't have a clue.

I'll start with removing the aluminium slugs in the balancing holes and go from there.

**adegnes** · 26th March 2016, 03:22

Originally Posted by AndreasL

Ok, I think I got it now!

Sorry adegenes, I didn't get that you got the resulting masses AFTER performing the "add washers" step.

I'm slow today...to.

The numbers so weird it tricked me.

No worries!

**AndreasL** · 26th March 2016, 03:36

So much for "high level brand" parts...

Less than 25% is weird on its own, but can the up side down orientation of your cylinder make things more noticeable/worse?

Need to check my Rito. Guess the answer can be anything between here and eternity.

**Haufen** · 26th March 2016, 06:01

Originally Posted by dmcca

I also find 12.6-12.8 to be a good range to aim for up top, then slightly leaner around 13.5 at mid throttle and mid rpm, and leaner again around 14 at low throttle and low rpm

Sounds logical to me, as rpm increases, so does the trapping of fresh charge. So you might actually have the same A/F ratio inside your cylinder during the whole rpm range in reality.

**peewee** · 26th March 2016, 08:31

frits you staying safe over there ? sounds like all hells breaking loose in that neck of the woods

**adegnes** · 26th March 2016, 09:08

Checked the stock crank, clocked in at 55%.
Why Doppler, why!?

**JanBros** · 26th March 2016, 10:23

Originally Posted by peewee

frits you staying safe over there ? sounds like all hells breaking loose in that neck of the woods

Frits lives in another wood, it's my wood that exploded

**TZ350** · 26th March 2016, 10:31

Originally Posted by Haufen

Sounds logical to me, as rpm increases, so does the trapping of fresh charge. So you might actually have the same A/F ratio inside your cylinder during the whole rpm range in reality.

Yes I think so to, and is why trying to get the AF meter showing the correct reading had me chasing my tail.

**Frits Overmars** · 26th March 2016, 10:50

Originally Posted by peewee

frits you staying safe over there ? sounds like all hells breaking loose in that neck of the woods

Thanks for asking Peewee. France and now Belgium were hit hard by those bloody idiots; the Netherlands were spared so far.

**dmcca** · 26th March 2016, 11:03

Originally Posted by TZ350

Yes I think so to, and is why trying to get the AF meter showing the correct reading had me chasing my tail.

Trying to run 12.5 at low/mid rpm will run very badly, way too rich. I aim for idle around 14-14.7 then progressively get richer from there with the numbers I posted earlier, up to 12.5 around peak then if everything is working at the right rpm itll naturally lean out in the overrev to 13+. Seems to work very well on most bikes. The exact number at each rpm/ throttle point will vary for each individual engine though, that's when you've just got to listen to what the engine is telling you and decide if it want more or less fuel.

I'll try to post up an example of the matrix of afr vs rpm that I record on the Dyno.., might have to wait til Tuesday though due to the public holiday.

Due to the nature of a carb low rpm/high throttle will always run leaner than the ideal numbers and high rpm/low throttle will run richer than the ideal numbers. With EFI you'd probably want to get rid of the low rpm/high throttle lean condition but keep the high rpm/low throttle rich condition for protection during deceleration.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk