ESE's works engine tuner

[wobbly]

The way to ensure that you dont get the issue that TeeZee describes is to run as high com as you can,and then tune to achieve reasonable egt numbers.
The optimum com-egt is easy enough to dial in on a dyno - but without the egt telling you what is going on then you are working in the dark.
Methanol will run very rich with no power loss,but if you choose say 850* as a baseline and jet to get that, then go up in com and rejet to again get that same egt
the power generated will tell you if you are on the right path or not.
Lectrons do have very very good atomization from the flat needle, but the powerjet nozzles are no better than a normal carb.
Thus you need to run as rich as you can on the needle and just fine tune with small powerjets.
This can be helped alot by cutting the nozzle exit at 45* facing downstream, and then drill a small 0.15mm hole in the front side about 5mm up from the end.
The other trick is to run twin powerjets and rpm switch one with an inline solenoid,thus getting the rich mixture needed at peak power, then leaning off over the top of the pipe.

[F5 Dave]

If you have egt and not running an ignitech, then an intelejet adjustable pj might be a good idea for high speed runs do you think Wob?

[wobbly]

The PJ with built in air correction that is used to adjust the fuel flow is probably going to have better emulsified droplets
than a simple screw adjusted one.
But I havnt used one yet.
I have a couple here and will test them on the new 400 Superlight I am building for Charlett.

[Sketchy_Racer]

I have a couple here and will test them on the new 400 Superlight I am building for Charlett.

Ah fuck off, how am I to burgle the Superlite class if Dennis turns up on a 400!

Although that will make 5 fast two strokes that I know of that are being preped for superlite at the moment, not to mention that Jason Eastons bike is getting a new exhaust made up so perhaps he's looking at coming out of the woodwork and schooling us all. Superlite might be the class to be in/watch this season!!

[wobbly]

Taking the Superlight title would be easy enough.
You need to just find 20 Hp, drop 20Kg, brake 3 lengths later into every corner,then ride like Freddie.
Get just 2 of those 4 right and you stand 1/2 a chance.
Trouble is Dennis is into the 13's at Hampton with a Pre 82 spec 400,add 100mm to the swingarm,add slicks,USDs and radial 4 pots
then I reckon a 10 is gonna be easy also.

[41juergen]

The ceramic heat barrier coatings I have never seen or heard of it failing.
You only coat the piston in the bowl area, NOT in the squish band - same in the head.

Thank's Wob, got it. The squish needs to get rid of the heat, that's the reason not to coat, right?

[wobbly]

The ceramic coating reflects the heat back to the gas boundary layer, this is fine in the chamber as it means more energy is used to create gas expansion.
But the boundary layer in the squish will detonate if the trapped end gases are heated by a hot surface ceramic coating.

[F5 Dave]

So Wob, who's this guy? Saw an earlier article and thought it sounded like a hard sell.

http://www.stuff.co.nz/motoring/7951...-the-twostroke

[Lef16]

Hey wob,
I've got a problem with knock gauge here.
I bought it from ebay and I bought a Bosch knock sensor for Peugeot or Citroen.
Yesterdat I wired it up and tested it.
When I give 12V to it one or two green lights give a strong flash and after a moment only one green light is on.I tried to hit with a plastic hammer but nothing changer,not even 2nd green light flashed.I tried to change the sensivity but nothing changes.
When I un-connect(sorry for my english :P ) the sensor with the gauge and touch gauge's red wire with bare hand 2nd green or maybe red too lights with a strong light again for a moment.
Is this normal?
Cheers

[bjorn.clauw.1]

Hey wob,
I've got a problem with knock gauge here.
I bought it from ebay and I bought a Bosch knock sensor for Peugeot or Citroen.
Yesterdat I wired it up and tested it.
When I give 12V to it one or two green lights give a strong flash and after a moment only one green light is on.I tried to hit with a plastic hammer but nothing changer,not even 2nd green light flashed.I tried to change the sensivity but nothing changes.
When I un-connect(sorry for my english :P ) the sensor with the gauge and touch gauge's red wire with bare hand 2nd green or maybe red too lights with a strong light again for a moment.
Is this normal?
Cheers

Installed mine last week. Bosch nr 0 261 231188. Hitting it with something plastic doesn't work. Needs to be metal (gently tapping the bolt with a spanner works for me).

[wobbly]

One green led tells you its running, and yes if you tap the mounting bolt with a steel hammer another couple of lights should flash.
A firm crack from the hammer will show the deto led.
Actual deto is just like hitting the piston with a steel hammer - this is why the head or cylinder nuts can be loosened when it happens.
You can adjust the sensitivity with the engine running so that under acceleration all the lights flicker except the deto led.
The 0-5V output works real well on a datalogger,as I can read the voltage level to the point of seeing a few 5V spikes
with every speedshifted gearchange - so anything approaching real deto at any rpm/throttle position is dead obvious.

Re the so called guru Denver - I worked with him in China on the Mira engine project, and all I will say is that I am guessing he would now be one of the reasons
the original Martin investor/inventor has walked away, wanting his name removed.
A previous misinformed media blurb tried erroneously to compare Den to John Britten,the problem being that most of Johns ideas were based on practical innovations, and were able to be ( and were ) translated into
working hardware by people with the requisite skills.
Denvers skill set revolves in large part, in being able to convince everyone, including himself - that anything he has thought up,that really is completely off the wall, is actually the next best thing to sliced bread.
This is then quickly followed by someone else's cash being vigorously poured down a very deep hole.
A perfect example would be the zillion hours spent designing a 1000cc V twin 2T, with no regard at all to the obvious fact a CR500 has real problems fitting 1 pipe on the bike - try finding room for 2 of them.
He is totally sincere and honest in his endevours ,but is one of those cases of excessive intellect that simply cant see real world limitations being a hindrance.

[nitro2tfx]

A little off topic, does anyone know where to find stock port timing (and possibly stock port dimensions too) for a Banshee engine, as well as length/diameter dimensions for a Toomey T6 exhaust (for a Banshee) ? It seems there are so many aftermarket parts for Banshees that everybody just buys bolt-on parts and goes riding, without actually knowing much of anything about specifics, at least that is my impression. Eventually I might be able to post some actual pressure traces for the Banshee engine on here, as well as for whatever mods end up being applied to it, so it's not just a one sided request LOL. Thanks.

[peewee]

to have any success with engmod youll need to know more than just window timing. a dummy engine can be pieced together with junk parts from ebay for peanuts then youll have all the info you can shake a stick at. I wouldn't bother with Toomey if you want a high performance pipe

[Lef16]

You can adjust the sensitivity with the engine running so that under acceleration all the lights flicker except the deto led.

All lights except deto led?
Do you meen the 2 "normal condition" green led's should flicker with engine running,or caution and preignition light's should flicker too?

[nitro2tfx]

to have any success with engmod youll need to know more than just window timing. a dummy engine can be pieced together with junk parts from ebay for peanuts then youll have all the info you can shake a stick at. I wouldn't bother with Toomey if you want a high performance pipe

No Engmod, this would be done using the real McCoy, pressure sensors, though Neels would probably want to give it a spin through Engmod to compare the simulated data to the actual data.

The engine currently exists with a T6 Toomey and stock cylinders, that is not what it will end up being, I was simply planning to present the pressure data for the as is engine first, so all that is needed to do that properly is the port timing, bore, stroke, con rod length, piston pin offset, compression ratio, and of course the instrumentation.

If Neels wants to run it through Engmod then yes a lot more about the engine would need to be known, such as the dimensions of the T6 pipe, reeds, etc. etc. etc.