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Thread: ESE's works engine tuner

  1. #23566
    Join Date
    1st June 2011 - 14:39
    Bike
    Honda NC50
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    Straya
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    145

    Pyro Putty 1000

    Anyone tried Pyro Putty 1000 before?

    http://www.aremco.com/ceramic-metallic-pastes/

    Just bought some, approx $100AUD for a kit which makes about 250ml. Going to try it in the exhaust duct and AUX EX ports to test different shapes before welding/replating. Fingers crossed it holds together long enough to get some decent dyno runs in.

  2. #23567
    Join Date
    8th February 2007 - 20:42
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    TZ400
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    I used it to lower the Aux ports on a Rotax 257 for sprint kart use.
    Worked fine.
    But the issue with filling the main duct with it means the ceramic putty will be a first class insulator - the retained charge will overheat
    and you will loose power.
    No matter how good the " shape " may be.
    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  3. #23568
    Join Date
    1st June 2011 - 14:39
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    Honda NC50
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    Straya
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    Quote Originally Posted by wobbly View Post
    I used it to lower the Aux ports on a Rotax 257 for sprint kart use.
    Worked fine.
    But the issue with filling the main duct with it means the ceramic putty will be a first class insulator - the retained charge will overheat
    and you will loose power.
    No matter how good the " shape " may be.
    Thanks for the info... i hadnt considered the insulation properties, thats a very good point.

    Did you leave it in the AUX ports long term or was it only used for short tests?

  4. #23569
    Join Date
    29th December 2011 - 04:14
    Bike
    rd 350 ypvs 1985
    Location
    netherlands
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    188
    But now this question remains (although Adagenes his problem seems two folded now...

    Is my combustion efficiency horrendously low? If I lower it to 75% in the sim it seems to reflect reality with 16hp peak @ around 12500rpm. why?
    and:

    Hi wob and everyone!
    I have a general question on the exhaust temperatures. Are they a depending on the cc of the engine?
    I worked on a 50cc engine with engmod and the estimated peak of the simulation was at least 2000 RPM higher than in real life. In fact, i needed to make the temperature on the exhaust unphysically low (150°C) to get the rpm range to suit the reality.
    I myself run 0.7/ 0.75comb efficiency to get in the ball park of what I figure it should be although my model is still in progress... (50cc crap engine)

    Where should one look and what effects comb efficiciency in the first place or why does engmod happily shows X hp when STA numbers suggest something (way) lower and like Wob says more in what should and could be expected?

  5. #23570
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    8th February 2007 - 20:42
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    TZ400
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    There are a dozen " AhHa " moments you find when the sim isnt agreeing with reality, and it nearly allways comes down to crap in = more crap out.
    My latest was to run Turbulent on a 95 pump gas sim, import the Wiebe numbers, then simply changed to Avgas and added 2 points of com from
    13.7 to 15.7.
    This gave a bullshit result, reason - I should have rerun the new setup itself in Turbulent and imported those numbers.
    It turned out I had accidentally found a glitch in the code, so Neels fixed that immediately.
    If something is weird and you are dead certain the sim is accurate, send the pack to the code man to look at.
    But be certain nothing is amiss - I have made a couple of real dumbarse errors that were so simple it was embarrassing, but at least I learned even more respect for what
    can be achieved as the sim has developed.
    As we all have found,every small change in a 2T has some quite unexpected result because another factor not even in mind at all has suddenly assumed importance.
    Keep in mind,the STA numbers are a guide to what the ports can achieve IF they and everything else, are optimized for the end use.
    Having ports setup for a 15 Bar bmep, running a pipe with a 36% header is simply not going to work as expected.
    PS - if you need 0.7 CE then something, or a combination of factors, is preventing a true sim representation.
    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  6. #23571
    Join Date
    8th December 2014 - 14:39
    Bike
    1980 Suzuki Gs1100E
    Location
    SWPA
    Posts
    148

    egt sensor

    Would someone please post a pic and information on the exhaust sensor they use to measure wall temps and where they mount them? Also info on where to buy them. Thank you.

  7. #23572
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    8th February 2007 - 20:42
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    You place the egt sensor around 50mm from the flange or spigot - with the tip in the middle of the header diameter.
    Simplest method is a stainless clamp, as welded on nuts are very unreliable.
    The only sensor to buy ( and the clamp ) is from EGT Industries.
    Called a Stinger - the only sensor thats guaranteed for 2 years and cheap as, 60usd for one with 12" pigtail and yellow K plug.
    Its a fast response open tip type and I have used dozens of them, never had a failure .
    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  8. #23573
    Join Date
    8th December 2014 - 14:39
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    1980 Suzuki Gs1100E
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    SWPA
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    Thank you wobbly, BUT, what I'm talking about is a sensor to measure the WALL temp not the gas temp. Like the wall of the exhaust pipe.

  9. #23574
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    8th February 2007 - 20:42
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    Easy, use a laser heat gun - cheaper than a probe and accurate as hell.
    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  10. #23575
    Join Date
    8th December 2014 - 14:39
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    1980 Suzuki Gs1100E
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    SWPA
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    wobbly, yes very good for the dyno but I'm using a data collector on the bike and would like to see how a fairing or even the wind effects the pipe wall temps. Also how do I come up with a average wall temp for a pipe?

  11. #23576
    Join Date
    8th February 2007 - 20:42
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    TZ400
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    Try this.

    You can mount several on the pipe with a small welded on nut.

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2PCS...08.4.10.F2nrAA
    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  12. #23577
    Join Date
    18th May 2007 - 20:23
    Bike
    RG50 and 76 Suzuki GP125 Buckets
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    Auckland
    Posts
    10,517
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Gave Mr Bigglesworth a kick in the guts tonight, started right up. Started and ran on the injectors Ok. Looks promising for fuel injection and the water cooled engine is so much quieter than the air-cooled version was.

  13. #23578
    Join Date
    18th May 2007 - 20:23
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    RG50 and 76 Suzuki GP125 Buckets
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    Auckland
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    The last big hurdle was setting up the power valve servo control in the Ignitec software. I have never had a power valve before and had no idea how it is supposed to be done but this is how I went about it.

    The first step was to use Ignitec's test routine to run the servo back and forth to get some idea where two thirds open is. This was shown to be about 3000mVolts on the servo feedback.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    1st step, drew a straight line at 3000mV on the power valve map and by adjusting the servo cables adjusted the power valve blade to the fully open position.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    2nd step, pull the left side of the map down until the power valve servo has moved to the fully closed position.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    3rd step, draw a line on the map between the two points.

    And there it is, ready for final setup on the dyno.

  14. #23579
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    8th December 2014 - 14:39
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    1980 Suzuki Gs1100E
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    SWPA
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    Thank you, wobbly. I will give them try. Definitely cheap enough.

  15. #23580
    Join Date
    25th February 2014 - 01:31
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    mostly GG 280 trials
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    right HERE
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    Quote Originally Posted by TZ350 View Post

    Click image for larger version. 

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    3rd step, draw a line on the map between the two points.

    And there it is, ready for final setup on the dyno.
    Usually the powervalve is setup to open sharply, in a rpm where the powercurve with closed valve crosses the powercurvewith open valve, say at 10000 rpm.


    image taken from google for reference
    http://s111.photobucket.com/user/rog...abled.jpg.html


    edit: I guess you mean 3000mv instead 300?

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