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Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
Wobbly, regarding hydroformed pipes. It may work both ways.
Thundercat 900cc triple, individual pipes. Straight pipes on the dyno worked amazing over stock. Hand-built to chasis... they made same as stock. Refit pipes to have the longest straightest headers we could fit... piwer came back slightly. Made stampings off these, power came back some more.
Company building hydroformed pipes wanted our business, they built a set based on our dimensions... made more power than the stanpings.
What differences in power are you talking about then johny?
Wobbly, some time ago you offered a DXF that showed how to construct one of your KT100 pipes. I'd like to roll one of these up and give it a try!
Did the header used with this pipe conform to the 75% exhaust area rule?
Would it be beneficial to cool the header near the exhaust port flange?
Is the pipe straight or a 90° diffuser?
Thanks,
Larry Wiechman
wiechman@charter.net
20ga for handbuilt. 19ga for hydro and stampings
Episode 3 of my garage vlog is out.
https://youtu.be/15El7vUgack
The pumped up pipes used the same material, so that wasnt an issue.
We finally made a press tool and made the U bend front pipe header in two 1/2 pieces, as this was the vast time consumer .
This setup made around 1/2 Hp more than the cones did.
I believe the problem with pumped pipes is that there is no way to get a definite angle change between sections.
This is especially important where the rear cone starts, as there is always a big blend area where the wave action must
be " smeared " slightly.
In effect making the rear cone shorter.
Clamping/restraining the mid section did help alot though.
Pressed pipes can be much more accurate,and have definitive angle changes.
Honda have used this method forever in racebikes, and the KTM ones built by Harolds team were stunning,with formed
header/first diffuser - the rest in cones.
My opinion would be that if pumped pipes made more power, then the actual shape was different enough that the real dimensions of the as built part,
were " better " than the drawing used
Re the KT100 pipe.This is dead straight, the bend was in the tapered header that had a machined nozzle as part of the plate flange clamp.
The reducer nozzle varied from 32mm to 36mm ( the duct being 38 ) and each engine tuner had his nozzle of choice depending upon the tune.
I will have to search for the old hard drive that has the dxf on it, I have it somewhere, but I vowed never to make another after over 2000 hand built ones,the first
500 or so i even cut the patterns and drilled the rear cone holes by hand.
CAD and Lasers were a god send financially and brain damage wise back in the day.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
OK, found the old drive - here is the dxf and a couple of pics.
Bugger - dxf not allowed, can admin change this please.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
Looks good!
Can you attach the DXF to an email and send it to wiechman@charter.net?
More pics of the Ktm frr parts there are 4 cyl heads carbs and reeds http://www.pit-lane.biz/t118p25-gp12...tiques-ktm-frr
http://www.rzrd500.com/500phpBB3/vie...11729&start=30
Interesting Engine build(S), lots of home brew and cunning ideas here.
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Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
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