If you can afford it that is...
http://www.nzherald.co.nz/business/n...ectid=11740760
If you can afford it that is...
http://www.nzherald.co.nz/business/n...ectid=11740760
I know is being smart arse but its the old story of "fools rush in ".
Not that Im saying you are a fool, far from it, but using epoxy, just to get it done "in a rush " is false economy.
And I know without a TIG you are buggered, but the slugs material is Tungsten with sometimes a few small % of other shit,but you dont need to
worry about the welding technique of it as all you do is crank up the amps and fusion melt the flywheel and slug together.
A small amount of any steel filler rod can be used when just simply creating a small arc of weld.
And as the balance factor still isnt correct at 48%, dont fuck about , get on with the job of doing it properly - take out the epoxy and add some more Mallory.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
You are right, and as it is winter in Norway and at least 5-6 months until I can take it for a test ride, I will listen.
Must be growing up... You wont believe how many times I have learned(can't really say that can I...) the hard way, especially when it comes to epoxy!
I could just buy a new stock replacement crank too, they're balanced to 55% and fairly cheap.
adegnes ,I'm enjoying your vids!
Perhaps you could burn the epoxy off with a heat gun and get it TIG welded at a welding shop?
You mentioned getting a stock crank,can it handle the extra stresses from your modifications?Maybe installing a quality racing rod kit on stock crank wheels would be a good alternative..
Thanks!
Yep, was planning on using a propane torch though, thinking the epoxy will turn to ash long before the heat is high enough to mess up the hardening.
I share your concern about the stock crank(if the Doppler is any better is questionable, seeing how they screwed up with the balance factor), and a rod kit is a good idea.
The answer is probably obvious to the more experienced in welding and metallurgy, but what's the reason I can't just use my mig to tack the slugs in there?
I was also going to suggest the MIG. If you ground away the Mallory (tungsten) pieces locally in a couple of appropriate edge spots, you could just MIG in these areas so the weld overlapped the interface. No hardness loss hassles. Should be able to do this in less than 5 months.
Yep, a couple of small chamfers on the Mallory, and crank up the heat so you for sure melt into the flywheel material as well as
filling the crevice with weld.
But MIG is for bridge building, a small TIG is cheap as these days and much more suited to doing pretty welds on racebike frame/crank/pipes etc.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
Also if the tungsten slug is a 'push fit' and tacked from the outside of the crank wheel,what keeps it from walking into the con rod as Frits said??
I was planning to get a couple of tacks on the inside of the webs too. I think I can reach in there with flux core and no gas nozzle.
E10 is up!
https://youtu.be/blwUtIKaZn4
I think miller and Lincoln have some smaller tig welders that aren't terribly expensive. they don't have all the bells and whistles but it might do the job your looking for. then again if you end up needing to weld other stuff you may need a machine with more functions.
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